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Thread: Millers Falls 120B Chuck Rebuild

  1. #1

    Millers Falls 120B Chuck Rebuild

    Any one know who I could send my Millers Falls 120B breast drill chuck to
    and get the chuck repaired/restored or replaced in that order of desirability? It does not extend or retract the jaws of the chuck. Maybe this explains why it was only $3 at garage sale. I posted a pic here I think
    after a quick clean-up when I got it. Didn't notice the chuck not working at time of purchase because was happy to get it. At the price even if had seen the malfunction; would still bought the drill. OK, enough rationalization. I am interested in getting the drill back to solid user status
    not museum looking-pretty.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Antrim, NH
    Posts
    259
    Have you taken the chuck apart to see if a spring is missing?

    Have you sprayed into it with some lube?

    If you have the (3) jaws it should be just stuck are a missing spring or 2.
    I think it is better to make something with modest tools and do your best, then to have great tools and do nothing.... how do you know what you can do if you don't try...Mark Singer

    Modest tools and a lot of wood

  3. #3

    All Parts There

    Kevin: Yep, I took it apart and have (3) jaws and (3) springs.
    I'm going to replace the springs and put it back together and see what happens.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Whippleville, NY
    Posts
    258
    Don't give up on it Mike!
    Where are you going to get new springs for it? Unless the old ones are crushed, kinked or have all the spring gone out of them, they sould work fine. Before you reassemble the chuck make sure the inside of the shell is clean and smooth. All other parts need to be clean and rust free. If the parts have an amber appearence to them, they have a "varnish" buildup from many years of oil and grease contact. Varnish will realy cause the jaws to stick against the inside of the shell.

    If you have a problem keeping the springs in the jaw holes, use a little thick grease in each hole to keep the springs stuck in the holes a bit better.

    Assemble the jaws and springs on the surface of a piece of card stock or simmilar. Slide the shell down over the jaws assembly. Holding the card stock over the big open end of the shell, turn this whole assembly over.

    Make sure the dished side of the little disc fits over the end of the spindle. It should. If it does, put the disc into the shell next, with the flat side of the disc toward the jaws.

    Thread the spindle addaptor into the chuck shell and tighten firmly.

    Finally, peek inside the chuck through he hole in the spindle addaptor and make sure the little disc has its dish side concentric with the threaed hole in the spindle addaptor. Squirt a little light machine oil (no motor oil, especially not multi vis.)into the disc.

    Thread the chuck onto your clean well lubricated spindle. Squirt a little more machine oil into the inside of the chuck shell from the jaw end. Some folks will say you shouldn't oil a chuck because it will hold sawdust and dirt. They are correct. However we are trying to get this old chuck working. I oil mine because I hate rust and don't mind disassebling my chucks for cleaning periodically.

    Now as you thread the chuck down the spindle, the jaws should move toward the end of the chuck. Stick a small bit in them and tighten the chuck down good. Loosen the chuck and remove the bit. Continue loosening the the chuck and the jaws should retract. If they stick where they are give them a tap with your finger or a piece of wood. They should snap back in. Keep working them in this way and add a little more oil. They will eventually free up completely until they will retract from full closed to fully open without touching them
    Good luck. Keep us posted.

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