Old workbench surface needs re-do or....

[Don Morris]

I bought an old workbench top years ago and cleaned it up, put some breadboards on it, built a base and added a vice. It had nails in it, all of which I couldn't get out, so I pounded those in. It's been very functional but is NOT absolutely flat (never really was), and is sadly in need of resurfacing. With all the nails in it, resurfacing is not a really good option. That's one of the main reasons it never really was totally flat. Or...I was thinking of getting something like 3/4" or 1" MDF, cutting it to the size of the workbench top (just 26" X 55") putting some edge banding on it and laminating both sides to use only when I truly need a flat surface. Most of the 1" MDF I've worked with, and in the size I've described, seems reasonably flat, at least to meet my "serious" hobbyiest needs. I could put it up against the wall adjacent the workbench and put it on when I truly need a flat surface, something I've come to find I don't need all the time and can thus save that elegant flat surface from my misplaced hammer swings. Is that a realistic plan? Do any of you guys and gals do anything like that? If you do, what material do you use?
Thanks for any input.

[George Bregar]

I would set the nails and flatten it.

[glenn bradley]

I'm with George. Router bridge: http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/f...tharouter.aspx

[David Christopher]

I agree with the others.. you could see if there's a cabinet shop that has a wide belt sander, and see what they would charge to sand it flat

[Jeff Nolan]

I'm with George. Router bridge: http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/f...tharouter.aspx

That router sled idea is something I've been wanting to try. I have a couple of large slabs that are good candidates for the treatment, but then I'd have to build something with them but I also noticed that my bench has a couple of high spots and this idea would be the ticket for flattening it.

[Chip Lindley]

I have an older Ryobi 3x21 BS with sanding frame attachment that can be adjusted very finely for surfacing. The frame keeps the sander from tipping and gouging (the bain of BS's) One must still be judicious in the use of the sander to avoid taking off too much in one area, but the sanding frame makes it a very usable tool!

But, the best idea offered here is to take the top to a cabinet shop with WBS. It will be worth what they charge to resurface it flat.

[Don Morris]

OK, I give up. I'll pound the nails in, build the Tage Frid router jig and resurface it. Much more time consuming and labor intensive with superior result than just buying the MDF. Have to do that because I discussed the options with my LOML. She said if I didn't go the router way she'd go on-line and tell you guys I cheated and took the easy way out. She's a Swedish cabinet makers daughter, hard to please with a degree in design. I should have kept my mouth shut.

[Paul Atkins]

I'd just belt sand the top and then hand scrape. You can get the thing pretty flat with a belt sander and a straight edge. Hand scraping will give it the hand made look and get rid of the sanding marks.

[Ed Griner]

Don, That bench looks pretty good to me.Does your work rock,when you set it on the bench? If not I wouldn't worry about it,my bench is Ebonized Crapple so,if it has low spot it isn't noticeable,if their is a high spot,I knock it down quickly,so I can get back to what work. Ed

[Don Morris]

Boy I'm glad you guys chimed in. I'm going to show these last two posts to LOML. Pray for me.

[Ed Griner]

Don, One more thing about benches,They are just a place to more easily work on your project,than on the floor.Sort of an anti gravity device for humans,to play with wood.Go fourth and use it. Good luck/Ed