Re-workedNova tool rest

[Paul Atkins]

I had a friend tack weld the W-1 drill rod on my homemade rest for my outboard stand. The ends are probably a bit softer than the rest of it, but 95% of the use is in the middle area. The drill rod is 3/8" and used as purchased with no hardening. Very quick and simple too. I think 3 feet of it was about 5 bucks.

[Matt Owen]

I did do some reading and was liking the description of the S-7 shock resistant steel, but was wondering if it was really over-kill. I would think something similar to HSS, or even harder would be better if you wanted to avoid dings...

Chris,

S-7 would work fine if you're willing to pay for it. Any of the tool steels will work better than the cold rolled steels used for most tool rests, even if the tool steel isn't hardened. If you know how to heat treat, even better.

Matt

[Porter Bassett]

I did do some reading and was liking the description of the S-7 shock resistant steel, but was wondering if it was really over-kill. I would think something similar to HSS, or even harder would be better if you wanted to avoid dings...

If you get it harder than your tools, you're going have to start worrying about getting dings in your tools instead of your tool rest...

[Jerry Pittman]

Mark,
I don't remember which rod I used but a sharp edge of a skew will still make a small mark but much less than a cast iron tool rest. I relieve the edges of all my flat tools to help reduce the marking but that still wasn't enough for cast iron.
Jerry

[Chris Stolicky]

Chris,

S-7 would work fine if you're willing to pay for it. Any of the tool steels will work better than the cold rolled steels used for most tool rests, even if the tool steel isn't hardened. If you know how to heat treat, even better.

Matt

Yeah, that's why I proposed my first question. It seemed like there are cheaper options out there.

If you get it harder than your tools, you're going have to start worrying about getting dings in your tools instead of your tool rest...

I was waiting for this issue to be thrown out. I guess this is why the ideal situation is to have something close to HSS.



Fastenal sound like a good option. I think I have one near me.

[Allen Neighbors]

Jim,
Yes, I put a shallow groove in the top edge of the toolrest with a rat-tail file since it was only 3 inches. I haven't done my 12" toolrest yet because I can't figure out a good way to make the groove. Any suggestions if a milling machine is not available?
Jerry

I used my dremel tool with a cutoff blade to make a half decent groove in my 12" toolrest before I attached the drill rod. It doesn't have to be perfect, just enough to give a little "tooth" for the PC7 or epoxy/JBWeld etc, to grab.