Replacing rotten studs

[Gregory Lyons]

I recently begun an extensive remodel of our master bathroom. During demolition, I discovered some rotten studs behind the wet wall of the shower. This was not a surprise as the shower curb failing is what prompted the project. The wall is the partition between the master bedroom & master bathroom. I don't believe that it is load-bearing, but I plan on replacing the studs one at a time regardless. Is there a way to do this without completely destroying the drywall on the bedroom side? I'd like to minimize the amount of repair that I need to do in the bedroom.

[Ellen Benkin]

Can you slide a recip saw blade between the drywall and the stud? Remember the drywall on the bedroom side is attached to those studs so you would have to reattach it when you replace the studs.

[Richard Dragin]

I think you'll spend more time trying to finesse those studs out than you would replacing the drywall on the other side. Put up a plastic barrier in the bedroom and demo the whole thing, just make sure it's not load bearing.

Not to mention that the old drywall might have mold from the water damage.

[David Thompson 27577]

I recently begun an extensive remodel of our master bathroom. During demolition, I discovered some rotten studs behind the wet wall of the shower. This was not a surprise as the shower curb failing is what prompted the project. The wall is the partition between the master bedroom & master bathroom. I don't believe that it is load-bearing, but I plan on replacing the studs one at a time regardless. Is there a way to do this without completely destroying the drywall on the bedroom side? I'd like to minimize the amount of repair that I need to do in the bedroom.

I've done this, with marginal success, a couple of times.

Use a reciprocater to cut the nails that go into the top plate, and the ones that go into the bottom plate.

Then, using your hands, rock the studd from side to side. You'll be pulling the nails/screws through the back side of the drywall.

Although that WILL leave nail holes to fill, it will probably do much less damage than trying to run the reciprocater down between the stud and the rock.

When you replace the stud, use nails (or beefy screws) to attach to the plates, and use adhesive to attach to the back side of the rock.

[Thomas Knapp]

If you twist the studs sideways and the pull you will take less drywall with the stud. Of course there will be holes where the screws or nails were. As mentioned in a previous answer you will have to fasten the drywall to the studs again. At best, you will only have to fill nail holes. But more repair may be needed.
Would you be comfortable treating the existing studs by spraying with bleach or other treatments and leaving them in place? You could add additional studs if you thought you needed more strength. What are you covering the wall inside the bathroom with, when done? Cement board is a better choice than drywall If the surface is covered by tile or a tub surround. Use water resistant drywall if drywall it must be.
Good Luck
Tom

[Thomas Knapp]

David explained the process better than I and he posted his answer while I was typing.

[Mark Neidinger]

Instead of a reciprocating saw, I would use something similar to a Fein Multimaster or Dremel Multimax. These tools would make the job of cutting those nails so much easier than a sawzall.

[Brian Tymchak]

I've done this, with marginal success, a couple of times.

Use a reciprocater to cut the nails that go into the top plate, and the ones that go into the bottom plate.

Then, using your hands, rock the studd from side to side. You'll be pulling the nails/screws through the back side of the drywall.

Although that WILL leave nail holes to fill, it will probably do much less damage than trying to run the reciprocater down between the stud and the rock.

When you replace the stud, use nails (or beefy screws) to attach to the plates, and use adhesive to attach to the back side of the rock.

At my previous house, a contractor did this very thing to replace rotten studs in the corner of my family room. Water had been leaking down that wall for years. They cut the studs and nails from the outside with a recip saw and rocked the studs out of the bay. I had minor patching of old and new drywall screws and painting to do on the inside wall. All in all, I was surprised at how little damage was done on the interior.

Brian

[Jim Dailey]

I just finished removing studs in a wall for a pocket door that had floor to ceiling cabinets on the other side. I only had two heads pop on the sheet rock side to fill.

I had been sweating this because removal of the cabinets was a MAJOR project. I had thought about the saws-all approach but I knew even with a fine tooth blade the reciprocal action of the blade would rip the nails thru. Plus the saws-all can't get parallel to the wall.

I instead used my single speed Fein Multimaster with a Dremel bladehe case . The bi-metal blade would only cut 1" deep but I was able to cut most of the studs from both sides or in the case of a plate or restricted area I plowed out a knotch so I could cut the extra 1/2".

You need a new tool.

jim

[Don Jarvie]

+1 with Richard.

Rip it all out. Looking at the picture the drywall at the botton doesn't look to hot and if there is mold it needs to go.

Keep in mind this is a bedroom wall and you don't want to leave any crappy drywall there to breath in any mold, etc.

[Mike Cutler]

Gregory

I personally would pull it all out, but most of your damage is limited to the bottom 12"18".
If the wall is truly non load bearing a cripple joist could be made to go under the studs. It is possible to remove the bottom 12-18 inches and keep it supported with a plywood sheet during removal. Once the bottom is torn out a cripple joist could be slid underneath the studs and the studs reattached. The studs can also be sistered in place if done properly with no compromise in strength

Looking at your picture a second time makes me wonder that the rot may not be as bad as it looks. The mold is black which kind of indicates it may be a surface problem. The studs I've pulled that were truly rotted had a white mold. The black sort of cleaned up.
If you can push anail into the stud,it's definitely a probem, if you need a hammer may be not so much. The mold could be bleached and encapsulated if you eventually find the stud isn't compromised.

There's a lof of extra material there though. It looks as if someone couldn't quite measure where the base receptor and wall flanges were going to locate so the provided enough material for any eventuality

[Ed Peters]

How about just screwing replacement studs in beside the bad stuff. Screw in to the solid sections of the studs and in to the sill and cap plates.

I'm just saying..........

Ed

[Van Huskey]

Instead of a reciprocating saw, I would use something similar to a Fein Multimaster or Dremel Multimax. These tools would make the job of cutting those nails so much easier than a sawzall.

+1 If you don't have one and don't anticipate any future use get a HF version.

[Jason White]

Could you sister new 2x4's to the existing ones?

Jason

I recently begun an extensive remodel of our master bathroom. During demolition, I discovered some rotten studs behind the wet wall of the shower. This was not a surprise as the shower curb failing is what prompted the project. The wall is the partition between the master bedroom & master bathroom. I don't believe that it is load-bearing, but I plan on replacing the studs one at a time regardless. Is there a way to do this without completely destroying the drywall on the bedroom side? I'd like to minimize the amount of repair that I need to do in the bedroom.

[Gregory Lyons]

Wow! Lots of good responses, quick too. I love this place.

Excellent call on the multi-master tool (or equivalent). While I hadn't considered it for this application, it's perfect. I almost bought one a few weeks ago for a kitchen project and this gives me an excuse for a new tool (I'll print this for SWMBO).

The rot is limited to the lower 12" or so, but I'd feel more comfortable replacing the studs altogether; I only want to do this once. I will most likely patch lower portions of the drywall on the bedroom side, and the shower side will be durock (or similar concrete board) covered in travertine.

Thanks guys,

~g