First Table Saw... Suggestions?

[Andrew W. Thomas]

I've been dabbling in woodworking for a while now and finally have the funds to pick up my own table saw instead of borrowing others.

I've got max about $1000 to spend and because my workshop is a portion of my basement and garage I do not have a lot of space so need it to be portable. I'm leaning towards contractor models but want a quality saw that will likely be my last for a while. I've already called about 10 area Home Depots and they're already out of the Ridgid R4511 so that's a no go.

I'm leaning towards the following models and would appreciate suggestions or complaints:

Powermatic 64A for $899.99
http://woodworkersshop.com/powermati...ncesystem.aspx

Delta 39-980 for about $700
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=18302


Or any other suggestions I should add to the list?

Thanks in advance everyone.

[Bob Haskett]

http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-T...se-220V/G1023S

I would get this without flinching if I had 1000 budget. Full cabinet, 3 Horsies, really nice fence...

[Van Huskey]

Before we go any farther, do you have 220v available?

[Andrew W. Thomas]

No 220 currently... would have to call in the father-in-law electrician but not sure I want to go that route. Benefits?

I've read good things about Grizzly's. Looks appealing.

[glenn bradley]

No 220 currently... would have to call in the father-in-law electrician but not sure I want to go that route. Benefits?

Takes up less room than a contractor. Contractors carry a large footprint due to the motor hanging out the back. Better dust control, contractors have almost none. You can make reliable angled cuts, all but the very overbuilt contractor format trunnions will go out of alignment when tilted. I'll stop here but others will joint the fray ;-)

[Bob Haskett]

You are sitting in the same position I was in a month or 2 ago.. I did not have 220 available so I bought my TS for 110v. Well a month later, I added a subpanel in my garage, converted my TS to 220v, and have 220v available...All it cost me was 165 dollars in materials, a Saturday and a Sunday + a code inspection fee. I had never done any electrical work, I just read a book at the library, did the work, and had it inspected.

If it were me, and I had 1000 budget, I would get that 1023s and have your father-in-law spend about 3-4 hours of his time getting you on 220.

If you do not have 220, and do not want to add it, then I would find a hybrid model.

See this thread for some specific recommendations.

http://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=128870

Although, my budget was lower than yours. I ended up getting a R4511 at 299 + 10% off..

[Andrew W. Thomas]

Okay… 220 is a definite possibility. Suggestions except for the Grizzley? Grizzley a good option?

[Richard Dragin]

In the true spirit of online forums I say forget the budget and spend three times more because you have to get a SawStop or buy used.

Although for $1000 I'd look at the Griz 1023's.

[Derek Gilmer]

I got a g1023s for Christmas and love it

[Al Willits]

With a $1000 limit I'd say maybe hold of till ya can buy something like this.

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=18269

Delta 36-717, $1,149 the 50" fence set up would be nice also, but you can move the rail to the right about 12" and gain a bit that way.

Al

[Matt Day]

Keep an eye on the used market too, such as Craigslist and the Want Ads. You could probably scored a used cabinet saw for $5-600.

[Tony Bilello]

For most woodworkers, the table saw is THE single most important stationary tool in the shop. Having said that.......get the best one you can afford. I also think that you should get the 50" fence from the start. You can put the whole shootin match on wheels. You may be limited on space but that is much better than being limited on capability. There have been surveys on many woodworking forums about the 50" fence and it usually wins by numbers. Of course, if you are only going to make small boxes than the shorter fence is better. For furniture, the 50" is better.

[scott spencer]

No 220 currently... would have to call in the father-in-law electrician but not sure I want to go that route. Benefits?

I've read good things about Grizzly's. Looks appealing.

First off, I would not spend $800-$900 on a new contractor saw with the motor hanging out the back...it's a 60 year old design that is nearing obsolence. It was originally design for easy removal of the motor for easy transport, but is seldom used as a portable jobsite any longer. A hybrid saw is essentially an evolved contractor saw that moves the motor inside the enclosure, and solves most of the issues associated with the outboard motor design (extra space, lifting hazards of the motor, dust collection, hard to align, longer belts,etc). For $900 you should be able to buy a modern hybrid with a riving knife, and possibly cabinet mounted trunnions. (one example for $663)

Benefits of 220v....huge IMO. It allows the step up to a full industrial cabinet saw. While that may be more saw that most hobbyists need, the price difference is small, and the difference in overall construction is significant.

Under the hood of an industrial cabinet saw:


Under the hood of a hybrid saw with table mounted trunnions:


Under the hood of a the Delta 36-980 (similar to the PM64:


Grizzly G1023S - $750, $844 shipped:

[Van Huskey]

Okay… 220 is a definite possibility. Suggestions except for the Grizzley? Grizzley a good option?

If $1000 is your hard budget and you want a full on cabinet saw then the Grizzly kinda stands alone, it is far and away the budget leader. Within the cabinet saw arena there is nothing close in price that gives any extra value, you would have to double your budget or more to get a significant jump in quality.

The only issues I have with the Grizzly listed above is that one it is a right tilt saw, I much prefer a left tilt arbor as I think most would. The exact saw saw left tilt from Grizzly is more like $1200 shipped the right tilt models are being closed out, and my second issue is it MAY not have a riving knife only a splitter, someone here can confirm . If the latter is true I would seriously look at stretching my budget OR getting a hybrid saw that had a riving knife and as a bonus it will probably be a left tilt.

[Victor Robinson]

Have been going through the same decision-making process as you over the last few months.

Originally wanted a portable jobsite contractor saw (Bosch 4100). Was quickly convinced it wouldn't meet my needs (wanted accuracy, stability, precision for furniture construction).

Then looked carefully at 110v contractor and hybrid saws after deciding I could better optimize space usage in my small garage to accommodate more than a jobsite saw.

Then became convinced adding 220v wouldn't be a big deal and started to consider 3HP+ cabinet saws...a lot more saw for not that much more money.

Then decided my fingers were worth more than a few hundred bucks and decided to go with 110v Sawstop contractor saw. However, if I hadn't decided to go with SS, I'd be all over the Grizz 1023 and be wiring the garage for 220v. The 1023 deal is a lot of bang for your buck.