14" bandsaw woes... Major woes!!!

[Michael Dunn]

I need some MAJOR help guys!!! I bought a used CalHawk 14" bandsaw ($100 on craigslist) a couple of months ago. Long story short the blade (any blade, all brand new Olson's) does not track right. It moves in and out (towards me and away form me).

Here is what I replaced (some of which was to reduce wobble and vibration as well...)

1. New Urethane tires from Rockler
2. New upper & lower guide assemblies (from Grizzly, perfect fit)
3. Olson cool blocks
4. I built a new base using 2"x4"'s and the existing sheet metal base
5. Shock absorbing mounts for the motor from McMaster

With the drive belt removed from the motor spinning the wheel by hand the blade still moves in the same manor.

The wheels seem to be balanced pretty well. When I free spin the top wheel it does not always stop in the same spot. I have 1/4 oz. adhesive lead strips to help in balancing, but the vibration problem affect how my dial indicator would measure.

Is there anyone in the Chicago (Orland Park, Tinley Park) area that can come by me and take a look? I'd be happy to reimburse for gas if it is a long haul.

Thanx,

shotgunn

[Philip Duffy]

It sounds like the bearings on the wheels are shot. Have you checked to see if the wheels wobble in the plane of turning?

[Curt Harms]

It sounds like the bearings on the wheels are shot. Have you checked to see if the wheels wobble in the plane of turning?

That would be my guess as well, bearings or bent wheels. If it were mine, I'd clamp a piece of bent wire or light strap of metal to the wheel cover so the end of the wire is close to each wheel's rim. Tension the blade as normal. Turn the wheel BY HAND and see if the distance between the fixed wire and the wheel changes. It shouldn't. If the wheel seems to be running true, have you tried more than 1 band? I've read of blades incorrectly welded that do what you're seeing, moving on the wheel.

[Jason White]

Major sure both wheels are "coplanar." Check this with a straightedge and adjust using the upper adjustment knob (or lower, depending on the bandsaw).

Jason

I need some MAJOR help guys!!! I bought a used CalHawk 14" bandsaw ($100 on craigslist) a couple of months ago. Long story short the blade (any blade, all brand new Olson's) does not track right. It moves in and out (towards me and away form me).

Here is what I replaced (some of which was to reduce wobble and vibration as well...)

1. New Urethane tires from Rockler
2. New upper & lower guide assemblies (from Grizzly, perfect fit)
3. Olson cool blocks
4. I built a new base using 2"x4"'s and the existing sheet metal base
5. Shock absorbing mounts for the motor from McMaster

With the drive belt removed from the motor spinning the wheel by hand the blade still moves in the same manor.

The wheels seem to be balanced pretty well. When I free spin the top wheel it does not always stop in the same spot. I have 1/4 oz. adhesive lead strips to help in balancing, but the vibration problem affect how my dial indicator would measure.

Is there anyone in the Chicago (Orland Park, Tinley Park) area that can come by me and take a look? I'd be happy to reimburse for gas if it is a long haul.

Thanx,

shotgunn

[Darnell Hagen]

You need to crown the tires.

A million different ways to do it can be found at owwm.org.

[Pete Bradley]

How much movement are we talking about, more or less than 1/16"? Coplanar and bearings are way down the list of possibilities on this one. The two most likely causes are a bad band or a crown problem, with bent or poor quality wheels in third place.

Where did the band come from? Have you tried with more than one? You may just have a bad weld or a kink.

Most of the Delta clones have crowned wheels so a quality tire replacement will give you a decent crown. If the wheel isn't crowned or is bent a bit, you'll likely get better results by crowning. As Darnell pointed out there are a bunch of ways to do it (none particularly easy in my opinion). Check the band first though.

Pete

[Michael Dunn]

I'd say a 1/4" of movement. I have tried 3 different brand new blades. The thing is, when I look at wheel movement, it looks perfect. However, the band does not move perfectly.

I already bought new tires, that didn't help. The older ones appeared to be crowned and not terribly worn. The new tires did not improve or worsen the problem.

Could it be a belt? Or the axle that the lower wheel is on? I have yet to find a way to remove the belt that connects the lower wheel to the pulley. So I cannot see if the lower wheel is actually running straight or wobbly.

Thanx, and keep them suggestions comin'

shotgunn

How much movement are we talking about, more or less than 1/16"? Coplanar and bearings are way down the list of possibilities on this one. The two most likely causes are a bad band or a crown problem, with bent or poor quality wheels in third place.

Where did the band come from? Have you tried with more than one? You may just have a bad weld or a kink.

Most of the Delta clones have crowned wheels so a quality tire replacement will give you a decent crown. If the wheel isn't crowned or is bent a bit, you'll likely get better results by crowning. As Darnell pointed out there are a bunch of ways to do it (none particularly easy in my opinion). Check the band first though.

Pete

[Michael Dunn]

Would I just take a straight edge and rotate the wheel (with a blade installed and tensioned) and verify if any parts of the rotation are suspect?

If I find anything, how will I determine if it is the wheel or the bearings? I hope it's the bearings.

That would be a cheap fix, right?

Thanx,

shotgunn

It sounds like the bearings on the wheels are shot. Have you checked to see if the wheels wobble in the plane of turning?

[Paul Atkins]

You said they were all new blades of the same manufacturer. It is possible that all are welded the same and not true. Use a straight edge and see if the blades are not welded crooked. Do this with the blades off the saw.

[Myk Rian]

Got a table saw or flat kitchen counter. Lay the blades on a flat surface and check them.

[Tim Johnson]

If you have 1/4 inch of perpendicular movement in the wheels when the blades are under tension, the bearings are shot, if you are sure the wheels are indeed flat and true. If the wheels are running true and the blade is moving 1/4 inch back and forth, are you sure the upper and lower wheels are co-planer as someone previously suggested? You might have to remove the table to check co-planer issues. I am not familiar with this brand, but most can be adjusted to bring the wheels into alignment with one another.

A site with info on checking co-planer issue http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/c...-wheels-2.aspx

[Pete Bradley]

I'd say a 1/4" of movement. I have tried 3 different brand new blades. The thing is, when I look at wheel movement, it looks perfect. However, the band does not move perfectly.

...

Could it be a belt? Or the axle that the lower wheel is on?

The chance of this being caused by a belt alone is nil. The problem is somewhere in the wheels, and almost certainly the top. You've checked the obvious, now look at the less obvious:

1. Are the wheels horribly out of plane with each other? 1/8", even 1/4" is probably ok. If you're not sure how to check see the article below.

2. Do the wheelsl run true under power or does it wobble? Be very careful checking this, you have to run with the doors open. If wobble in the top wheel, check the tracking mechanism for loose parts.

3. You have to do a lot of bearing or shaft damage to make an impact but see if either wheel is loose on the shaft.

Most likely this is still just a tuning thing. This is a particularly good article on band saw tuning:

http://www.ccwwa.org/NEWSITE/plans/BandsawTuneup3.pdf

Pete

[Michael Dunn]

I have adjusted the the wheels for coplanarity. It is really easy to adjust. The table does not need to be removed.

If you have 1/4 inch of perpendicular movement in the wheels when the blades are under tension, the bearings are shot, if you are sure the wheels are indeed flat and true. If the wheels are running true and the blade is moving 1/4 inch back and forth, are you sure the upper and lower wheels are co-planer as someone previously suggested? You might have to remove the table to check co-planer issues. I am not familiar with this brand, but most can be adjusted to bring the wheels into alignment with one another.

A site with info on checking co-planer issue http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/c...-wheels-2.aspx

[Lee Schierer]

Most band saws have a two piece cast C arm that runs between the base and the upper wheel. Usually there is a bolted connection between the two halves and this connection is doweled for alignment. Check to see that your upper wheel is aligned at the left and right edges with the lower wheel.

Or one of your wheels are bent.

Or one of your tires isn't laying flat on the wheel (glue or debris from the original wheels under it.

[Alan Schwabacher]

The part of the wheel the blade rides on is not as steady as it should be. That could be the bearing, the wheel, or since you've checked those (I think) it could be the tire. With the blade removed, took at the tire as you turn the wheel by hand. The crown should not wobble side to side or up and down. If it does, it needs to be fixed either by repositioning the tire, or by sanding it down as the wheel spins.