Best glue...

[Matt Black]

...for 12mm europly drawers, box-jointed. Bottom is 1/4" europly. Glue that in as well?

I picked up some Titebond I with extended open time. Is this the strongest/best choice?

Thanks!

Matt

[Bruce Volden]

Titebond has always been a good quality glue! Lately I tried some Gorrila woodworkers glue (NOT the poly) and have been using this exclusively as it seems to "set-up" faster-good for my usage. One thing I dislike about it is if you leave it sit for a few days you have to shake it up or you get "clots"

Bruce

[Tom Adger]

What are you looking for? More open/working time? I have used a glue from Lee Valley, 2002GF, which has an open time of 15-18 minutes, as opposed to Titebond of around 8 minutes. It behaves the same as titebond when applying. I have not had a joint fail yet. They advertise that the breaking point exceeds the breaking point of just about every wood you would use. I have to admit that I have not gotten an 800 lb gorilla in to jump up and down on my glued joints to test it, but I am satisfied so far.

[Howard Acheson]

The Titebond Extend is more than adequate for what you want to use it for. It will produce joints stronger than the wood itself.

[Matt Black]

Thanks for the replies. Seemed like a fine choice, then I found a long thread on glue:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=21822


and started second guessing myself.


Clamptime.

[Paul Ryan]

I have used Gorilla Wood glue as well. I started by experimenting with it, now I use it for everything unless I need longer open time, then I go to TB III, or white glue. I like the gorilla wood glue because it sets up faster than TB's and dries completly clear. So if you stain before assembly end then end up with squeeze out in a corner you miss or you cant get at easily, not harm. You cant see it once it dries. It also mixes well with saw dust for knot fillers. I have never had problems with clumping and have probably used close to a dozen bottles now.

[Neal Clayton]

glue for interior use comes down to personal preference. moisture and heat affect glue, in lieu of those (cold doesn't matter), anything will work fine.

see forest product labs adhesive study for appropriate glues for various applications...

http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/fp...tr113/ch09.pdf

[Mark Woodmark]

Fine Woodworking magazine tested glues for strength awhile back. Cant remember which issue it was. Anyway Titebond III scored highest along with Epoxy. Gorilla (poly) scored lowest

[Doug Roper Chairmaker]

Matt,
Having been a cabinetmaker for many years, all I ever used was Titebond. My drawers, however, were hung using slides and stresses were minimal. If you are making furniture with a drawer on wooden runners where stress is increased or if you think you will have to do repairs at a later time, I would use hot hide glue. When furniture or musical instruments are made using this glue, they can be dis-assembled and re-glued with out damage to the wood. Of course joints need to me proper and without gaps. Also, DO NOT glue the bottom of the drawer to the box. I make the back of the drawer to allow for sliding in the bottom after making the box. Make the bottom square and fit snug. Slide it in from the back, nail to the underside of the rear member of the box and it will square up your drawer. It can easily be replaced should a problem arise.

[Dan O'Sullivan]

I believe this is the most common method of construction for drawers that are dovetailed and fit. One note for others that are not using this method yet: make sure you fit the bottom(natural wood) with the grain running side to side and not fore and aft. This allows the wood to expand and NOT push the sides out and stressing the joinery.

dan