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Thread: Wiring a General 350 Cabinet Table Saw - Photos Now

  1. #1

    Question Wiring a General 350 Cabinet Table Saw - Photos Now

    Hi folks, I've just brought a new General 350 table saw and it ships without an electrical cord. I can run basic wiring (I installed 220 /20A breaker and proper receptical for the saw), but I don't know how to add the electrical cord to the table saw switch.

    Anyone have this saw and installed the cord/plug? Any tips/photos would be great. Otherwise I'll have an electrician in and do it that way.

    Thanks Much

    Wayne
    ================================================== ===========

    Hi, I've added a few photo to make sure I get this right.
    Looks like I connect a hot wire to L1 and the other to L3. Then connect the ground to the bar at the right.

    Sound correct?

    Thanks again
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Wayne Watson; 02-13-2010 at 2:15 PM. Reason: Updated with pics

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
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    LA & SC neither one is Cali
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    I am going to ask the obvious, the manual doesn't cover it?

  3. #3

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
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    Sun Prairie, WI
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    If I remember correctly there should be a little piece of paper that has the wiring diagram on it. My 650 came with it. I wire it myself. I think that the two hot wires go to the L1 and L2 connections and the ground goes to the ground. I will go outside and check to make sure.
    Chuck

  5. #5
    Check inside the switch box for a wiring diagram. I think that's where I found mine

  6. #6
    I've added a few photos to help make the question easier to address.

    Thanks All

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Saskatoon Saskatchewan
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    Power comes into the top of the box, black to terminal L1, white to L3, just like the diagram. Power to the motor, black to T1, white to T3, just like the diagram. Ground (green) to it's own screw in the motor's junction box, then attached to the bar on the right, just like the photo. Ground from the power side gets attached to the bar at the top. Set the dial to correspond to your motor's full load amp (FLA) setting. That controls the overload, and protects the motor. FLA draw is at start up, if your motor won't spin, this dial is too low. FLA is approximatley 2.5 x running load amp draw, if I remember correctly.

    Nice saw, by the way.
    Darnell

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
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    Toronto Ontario
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    11,277
    Quote Originally Posted by Darnell Hagen View Post
    Power comes into the top of the box, black to terminal L1, white to L3, just like the diagram. Power to the motor, black to T1, white to T3, just like the diagram. Ground (green) to it's own screw in the motor's junction box, then attached to the bar on the right, just like the photo. Ground from the power side gets attached to the bar at the top. Set the dial to correspond to your motor's full load amp (FLA) setting. That controls the overload, and protects the motor. FLA draw is at start up, if your motor won't spin, this dial is too low. FLA is approximatley 2.5 x running load amp draw, if I remember correctly.

    Nice saw, by the way.
    All correct on the wiring, however FLA is Full Load Amperes.

    This is the current drawn by the motor at rated horsepower.

    LRA Locked Rotor Amperes is the current drawn by the motor with the rotor not turning.

    For a tablesaw motor it will be around 6 to 10 times FLA.

    Regards, Rod.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Ellsworth, Maine
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    1,809
    Power comes into the top of the box, black to terminal L1, white to L3, just like the diagram. Power to the motor, black to T1, white to T3, just like the diagram. Ground (green) to it's own screw in the motor's junction box, then attached to the bar on the right, just like the photo. Ground from the power side gets attached to the bar at the top. Set the dial to correspond to your motor's full load amp (FLA) setting. That controls the overload, and protects the motor. FLA draw is at start up, if your motor won't spin, this dial is too low. FLA is approximatley 2.5 x running load amp draw, if I remember correctly.
    Exactly! This is how your diagram tells you. This is how to wire it. But I think his FLA explaination is a bit off. Full Load Ampere should be the draw of the motor when it is at full load. I'm not sure I understand why it would be 2.5x. On startup your motor will draw slightly more than it does once it gets to full speed. Then the power draw will level back out. But setting the overload is as simple as matching up the # on the dial to the FLA rating on the motor, which has already been stated by Darnell. This is to prevent the motor from burning up as the windings insulation and other parts are only rated for the FLA listed on the motor. Therefore if it runs above this number for an extended period of time things will heat up and burn up. The overload should be the first to heat up and trip the circuit out before damage occurs. Since it is on a heat basis it will acount for the extra draw during startup as long as the draw levels out.

  10. #10
    Follow-Up:

    Thanks everyone for all your assistance. Saw is wired and works well.

    Here's a photo of the assembled saw.

    Wayne
    Attached Images Attached Images

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    International Falls, MN
    Posts
    158
    Pretty dang nice .... nope. Make that gorgeous. People who own this saw just love the devil. Congrats !

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