Oneway Easy Core

[Jonathan Harvey]

Has anyone had any issues with there's. I get a lot of catches with mine and my nerves are shot. I'm talking my time and the lathe is running very slow and I am sharpening my cutter with each pass through the bowl but I still seems to get a lot of catches especially with the number two and three knives. when the knife catches my lathe comes to a complete stop. I think my lathe has enough power for the job but I still seem to be stopping the lathe dead quite a few times.

What have you guys done to get great success with this tool?

[Vince Welch]

Hi Jonathan,
There are few varibles with any coring system in my view. What type of lathe are you using? What HP? WHat is the speed you are trying to core? What type of wood are you trying to core? I aggree having the cutters as sharp as they can possibly be is a good thing. It took me a few times working with the coring system to understand what and how things work best. For example, I ended up getting the number four jaws to chuck my blanks because the number two jaws often did not allow for a big enough tenon. But at first I did not understand why the tenon was breaking. I'm confident you get coring successfully! Vince

[Reed Gray]

Jonathon,
While I do prefer the McNaughton, I have a Oneway coring system as well. I never had any problems with catches with it. Is the top of the cutter at center height, or slightly (no more than 1/4 inch) above, but not below? Are you using and advancing the support finger? They will still cut when dull, but not well. When sharpening, you sharpen the top surface, not the face. I don't think I have heard this one with the Oneway. A lot of times with the McNaughton. You need 1 hp minimum for coring with this, and 2 hp is better.

robo hippy

[Jeff Nicol]

Jonathan, I also prefer the Mcnaughton system for it's versatility and as he said it is very important to make sure the cutter is at center or a little above. What I found out with the McNaughton is that I start above center so that the cut ends at center. With the Oneway if you are using the support there should be very little deflection of the cutter, but if it starts to get below center it will catch very easily.

Good luck,

Jeff

[Jack Mincey]

I use a oneway coring system and very seldom get anything close to a catch. When I do it is caused by going into a void or hitting a knot in the wood. Having it adjusted right and backing out to clean the shaving's are very important. The deeper you are into a blank the more often you will have to pull the cutter out to clean away shaving's. They will build up around your blade and bind it which cause's a catch. I core at around 350 to 400 rpm's which might be slow for some, but it works and feels about right for me. I will slow down to less than 200 rpm's just before the bowl is ready to be broke out.
Good Luck,
Jack

[Bernie Weishapl]

I have the oneway coring system. I agree with Jack. I have never had a problem except when I have hit a knot. Make sure you keep moving your support finger in as implied by oneway. I have never had to sharpen after every bowl is cored. I core at probably 400 to 500 rpm. Make sure you are just slightly above center. Keep the shavings cleaned out.

[Jonathan Harvey]

So I don't know why I just decided to measure the distance from my ways to the center point in my live center but I'm glad I did. It measures 11-3/4 not 12" like I though would be. The vicmarc VL300 is supposed to have a 24" swing but I guess not. All my cutters are set to 12" as I thought that that was where my center would be. Would being 1/4" high cause the issues that I am dealing with? It seems kind of minor but I figured I'd ask.

Jonathan

[Reed Gray]

It might make a difference on a smaller bowl, but don't think it would matter on a large (12 and over), but don't know for sure. The only problem I had was once on a larger bowl that was shallower, I had the tool rest slid as far as it would go to the outside, and the support finger was binding up in the kerf. I would think the same thing could happen if you adjusted it all the way to the inside as well as the support finger is angled to fit in a specific radius, and if you move much off that, it doesn't fit.

robo hippy

[Nathan Hawkes]

measures 11-3/4 not 12" like I though would be. The vicmarc VL300 is supposed to have a 24" swing but I guess not. Jonathan

300mm = 11.8" I thought you Canadians were all about metrics! J/K I thought it was 24" too. Hope you don't mind a quick thread-hijack. So, Reed, are you saying that you can't change the profile or outside shape of the bowl you core? There isn't a lot of specific description on how much leeway you have to be "creative" with the easy-core system, and the primary reason I don't yet own one. I like my McNaughton, but there are times when its just not as steady as I'd like. Jonathan, most descriptions I've seen just give the removed core size as the knife size. Number two and three I'm assuming correspond to 11.5" and 13"?? Thanks! I don't know anyone who ones one in the turning club I belong to.

[Reed Gray]

I am not sure what you mean by changing the outside shape or profile of the bowl you core means. The outside shape of the bowl only determines what size of core you can take. If you have an ogee shape on the outside, you have to remember that as you core, you don't want to core through the S curve part, only the center of the bowl. No blade from any system will take a perfect core that is the exact same shape of the out side of the bowl, unless you are making 'earthquake' bowls with rounded bottoms that will rock if there is an earthquake. The transition area on the inside of the bowl prevents this from happening. If you want a flatter core with the Oneway, you have to use the large set of blades, or you can move the tool rest out a bit. If you want a deeper core, you really can't do as much, only moving the tool rest to the inside, and that is limited by the support finger and blade, which has to fit into the kerf you are making. The Oneway is far more stable when doing deep coring, but you pay the price of limited core shapes. The McNaughton can core any shape except hollow forms, but is a bit (only a bit?????) chattery whey you are hanging out a long way. I do think McNaughton could use a blade between the medium and small curve blades, and I am going to have a black smith bend some for me.

robo hippy

[Ryan Baker]

I also frequently wished I had a McNaughton blade that was between the medium and small curve. Recently I bought an extra medium blade new, and it's curve is actually pretty close to halfway between the existing medium and small blades I already have. I was surprised at how much variation they apparently have between batches, but I'm happy to have the extra choice in the set.

[Nathan Hawkes]

I am not sure what you mean by changing the outside shape or profile of the bowl you core means. The outside shape of the bowl only determines what size of core you can take. If you have an ogee shape on the outside, you have to remember that as you core, you don't want to core through the S curve part, only the center of the bowl. No blade from any system will take a perfect core that is the exact same shape of the out side of the bowl, unless you are making 'earthquake' bowls with rounded bottoms that will rock if there is an earthquake. The transition area on the inside of the bowl prevents this from happening. If you want a flatter core with the Oneway, you have to use the large set of blades, or you can move the tool rest out a bit. If you want a deeper core, you really can't do as much, only moving the tool rest to the inside, and that is limited by the support finger and blade, which has to fit into the kerf you are making. The Oneway is far more stable when doing deep coring, but you pay the price of limited core shapes. The McNaughton can core any shape except hollow forms, but is a bit (only a bit?????) chattery whey you are hanging out a long way. I do think McNaughton could use a blade between the medium and small curve blades, and I am going to have a black smith bend some for me.

robo hippy

I just reread my post; it was very confusing. You confirmed for me what I meant to ask; that you can't change much except the height of the bowl you core. I don't do a lot of HUGE bowl coring, so I think I'm going to stay with the McNaughton for now. I sell a lot more natural edge bowls, so it doesn't justify the price for me right now. Thanks!

[Jonathan Harvey]

So I cored my first set today without a catch woohoo. I had my cutter set almost 1/4" above the center line as I though that my lathe had a 12" center. I also lowered my lathe speed to around 200-300RPM.

I have noticed that none of my cutters run flat on my support finger and was wondering if others have noticed the same thing. It's the same with all of my fingers and cutters (# 1,2,3) What I mean in case I'm not being clear is that when I run the cutter along the length on the finger there is always a gap between the two at one end or the other. Hope this makes sense, if not I'll take a photo.

Jonathan

[Reed Gray]

I am guessing you mean that the two aren't exactly parallel. It is hard to remember, but I don't think it makes a whole lot of difference if there is a slight gap. The pressure of cutting will put the cutting blade down on the support finger. If the gap is more than 1/16 inch, then it might bounce slightly on first contact, but I would want the tip of the support finger toughing, and wouldn't worry about the handle end as much, and make sure they line up the whole way, rather than being slightly angled.

I do remember thinking if I was going to use them for my production coring tools, for sharpening, I would make some sort of 220 or coarser sanding disc rather than using the grinder, or a sanding belt. Never did like holding them up to the grinder even with the jig.

robo hippy

[Hilel Salomon]

What do you mean by different cutters???? I have both the McNaughton bowl saver and the Oneway coring system. The only different "cutters" on the Oneway that I can think of are the coring holders for different sized bowls. The actual knives are the same for all of them. In the McNaughton set, there are really different "cutters." I never have to sharpen the knives during a bowl coring.I use an mt2 extension and hold the blank tightly with a live tailstock. I also cut at much higher speeds than the others who have written. I only slow it down to about 550 when it is close to the end. In any case the live tailstock prevents the cored piece from flying out.
While I do get stops on the McNaughton, I rarely get them with the Oneway.
They each have their strong and weak points.
Hilel.