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Thread: Jointer Technique??

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Jointer Technique??

    I have a Jet jointer/planer, and have had a hard time getting a true edge joint. I consistently get a crown in the joint, more material is being removed from the center of a board than the ends. Seems to be something like a 32nd in 60 inches pretty consistently.

    I have checked and rechecked and fiddled and reset the infeed table and have it to within 3 thou front to back and side to side. Any more fiddling and I get it worse, not better. I surmise that is plenty acceptable, so I must be the problem.

    Does anyone have any idea what I am doing wrong? I feed the stock into the cutter smoothly with pressure on the infeed table, and after about half the board moves through the cutterhead I shift pressure to the outfeed side.

    Thanks

  2. #2
    0.003" is fine, you're correct.

    There are a few possibilities:
    -I assume you're talking about edge jointing, so this is less likely, but make sure you aren't pressing too hard down on the wood, as you may be flexing it, and it springs back when you remove the pressure.

    -More likely is that your outfeed table is not coplaner with your infeed table. Do you have a long straight edge you can place across both tables (infeed table fully "up"), and check that they are coplaner? The outfeed table may be tipping downwards.

    -Finally, you want to be putting pressure on the stock on the outfeed side as soon as possible. Waiting until it's half-way across is probably waiting too long.

  3. #3
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    The most important adjustment is having the knives co-planer with the outfeed table. Then, make sure the outfeed and knives are at the same height with a straight edge.
    As you move the wood across the knives, put pressure on the outfeed side.
    Never, under any circumstances, consume a laxative and sleeping pill, on the same night

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jason Yeager View Post

    Does anyone have any idea what I am doing wrong? I feed the stock into the cutter smoothly with pressure on the infeed table, and after about half the board moves through the cutterhead I shift pressure to the outfeed side.

    Thanks

    Jason, I think that your problem is your techinique. Once the board is started past the cutterhead, you should apply downward pressure to the board only on the outfeed table - not the infeed table. Your objective is to keep the board perfectly flush to the outfeed table over the entire length of the board.

  5. #5
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    Dan's got it, your outfeed table is low on the end away from the cutterhead.
    Darnell

  6. #6
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    Let's make it three for the outfeed table/cutterhead problem.

    Rye Crane

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Jason Yeager View Post
    Does anyone have any idea what I am doing wrong?
    I feed the stock...

    Thanks
    If you keep the stock from moving and make a quick pass with
    another tool in a control manner ( like a machinist )
    you have better results.

  8. #8
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    Thanks fellas,

    Dino, I am not pickin' up what you are putting down. Could you explain it another way?

    Thanks

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Dino Makropoulos View Post
    If you keep the stock from moving and make a quick pass with
    another tool in a control manner ( like a machinist )
    you have better results.
    huh, say what?

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Jason Yeager View Post
    Thanks fellas,

    Dino, I am not pickin' up what you are putting down. Could you explain it another way?

    Thanks
    Jason,
    You're moving ( pushing) a piece of wood against a fence
    and spinning knifes.

    IF you have a perfectly flat face you may get a perfect edge.
    Fence and outfeeed table must be perfectly aligned.
    Then we have the technique to push and apply just the right pressure
    at the right place.
    Not impossible but not an easy task.


    On the other hand, why not secure the wood and slide another tool,
    saw, router, hand held planer, in a control manner.
    A homemade shooting board works better for edge jointing.

  11. #11
    How thick is your stock?

    With thinner stock, the front and trailing ends can flex and basically flap against the cutting knives instead of riding into them properly. This has happened to me.

    I ain't no jointing 'xpert, but if the tables are not coplanar, then wouldn't you only experience probs with one end - in this case the trailing end - of the piece?

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by Dino Makropoulos View Post
    Not impossible but not an easy task.

    A homemade shooting board works better for edge jointing.
    I don't know about that, any monkey can be taught to straighten a board on a jointer. Good technique is really not that complex. I think a big part of the problem is not having someone there to visually explain how it's done. These types of skills usually don't translate well into text. It really is probably the easiest way to flatten any face or edge.

  13. #13
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    I must disagree Dino! This is the work jointers were made for! Other methods you mention are for those who do not have access to a jointer, OR have a jointer which is misaligned, OR have not mastered good jointing technique. Accurate jointing takes a bit of *finesse* and *feel* above and beyond just shoving a board across the tables.

    In fact, the OP is getting a *sprung joint*. At times this is desirable when preparing stock for panels, as the ends are assured of closing rather than gapping when clamps are applied. Sprung joints can be made by loosening the infeed table of old-style jointers with dovetailed ways, so as to allow it to droop slightly. Parallelogram jointers will require a different technique.
    Last edited by Chip Lindley; 02-15-2010 at 10:45 PM.
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  14. #14
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    I haven't seen your jointing technique but I doubt that is the problem. It is difficult to have bad technique on the jointer. You don't need excessive pressure or grip.

    I don't use a straight edge to make my jointer tables coplanar. I use the resulting joint to decide what to do with the table. Ok I get it close with a straight edge. Then I joint two boards and oppose them. This tells me if the tables have to go up or down. Spread in the middle means the tables are sagging. Spread at the ends means the opposite obviously. So I adjust. Joint again and see how the joint looks. Readjust if necessary.

  15. #15
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    Plus yet another one for outfeed table as a possibility. Technique could also play here for sure. Once your stock is a few inches past the cutter head most of your downward pressure is focused past the cutterhead as described. Pressure feeding into the cutterhead should just be adequate to control the stock and feed it.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

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