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Thread: Best Saw for Straight Accurate Cuts?

  1. #1
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    Best Saw for Straight Accurate Cuts?

    O.K. Me again.

    Well the manual mitre saw I was considering is not a good choice. I checked it out at CT and it was really flimsy and looked cheaply made. So I have to find an alternative.

    First, this is what I need it for. To make straight accurate cuts.
    And lots of them, To cut small squares, rectangles, etc...

    So, being at a complete loss as to what kind of saw is best, I would like your opinions on what kind of benchtop saw I should look at.

    Compound Mitre Saw?
    Table Saw?
    Circular Saw?
    or ???

    Thanks,

    James

  2. #2
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    James,

    What is your budget and can you provide more details on what you are doing? Will you be getting deeply into ww'ing or is this a passing fancy or do you just want to 'get by' for right now?

    For most of us here in the US, the table saw is often the center of the wood shop but as I alluded to above, it really depends on YOU and what YOU need. Help us out with a few more details and we'll be only too happy to help you spend your money!

    Wood: a fickle medium....

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  3. #3
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    Oct 2004
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    Hi!

    I want to cut numerous small squares (say 1" to 2" square of varying thicknesses for example), rectangles, etc... This is for building up blanks for turning segmented bowls, vases, boxes, etc... So the number of squares, rectangles, etc... might number in the hundreds.

    And of course they have to be cut straight and accurate.

    I am hoping for a benchtop as the work will be intricate and I want to be able to get close to it.

    Hope this makes sense.

    James

  4. #4
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    Table saw with a cross cut sled would get my vote. Straight, easy and very safe.

  5. #5
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    James, this is completely personal opinion but, "accurate" and "benchtop" are typically not used in the same sentence. A tablesaw is probably the most repeatable in accuracy and have it matched up with some type of sled for angle accuracy and safety. I use a Jointech Smart Miter on my cabinet saw and it's accurate, repeatable AND safe. This may be a bit overkill for what you're trying to accomplish, unless if your work extends beyond the spinny thing.
    Cheers,
    John K. Miliunas

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  6. #6
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    James,

    If you want something 'benchtop' I am thinking a power miter saw might be something for you to investigate. I hesitate a little bit suggesting this because of the size of pieces you are looking. With some forethought (clamps/jigs), you can safely and accurately cut 1" squares on a powered miter saw and do lots of them.

    I would go to my local h/w store or Home Depot/Lowes (borgs) and start browsing around at the myriad of power tools they have and see if you start getting ideas about what you want.

    While I agree with John (and boy, that really steams me, too! ) that a benchtop table saw isn't very solid/accurate, a powered or compound miter saw is and might work for you.

    If you go for a bigger (contractor or cabinet) table saw, then that coupled with a nice miter fence/sled (Incra, Jointech, etc.) would be very nice. However, that is A LOT more money than a compound miter saw and definately won't work on a bench.
    Wood: a fickle medium....

    Did you know SMC is user supported? Please help.

  7. #7
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    Thanks for the replies.

    Well I said benchtop for two reasons. I want to get close to the work and I also don't have a lot of room for a large saw.

    And, can I cut small intricate pieces on a large saw?

    Seems like overkill to me. Like using a sledge hammer to nail tacks.

    I guess the perfect saw would be a small scroll saw or small band saw
    that did straight, fine, and accurate cuts but I gather they don't exsist.
    Or are extremely expensive.

    James

  8. #8
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    Thanks Chris!

    I have been looking at a 10" Delta CMS (Model 225) that looks like it would be
    the right thing. They even have some with lasers on them.

    Just wasn't sure, so that's why I figured I would ask.

    James

  9. #9
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    James

    Check out the bt3100 Ryobi saw. It comes with a sliding table and is very accurate. I know a guy that uses his for segment cutting exclusivly. he had a unisaw for other work. It isnt abench top but it does have a small foot print.

    just my dos centavos

    Roger

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by James Farrow
    I have been looking at a 10" Delta CMS (Model 225) that looks like it would be
    the right thing. They even have some with lasers on them.
    James,

    The laser is a nice gimick, but it's no help in making the kind of fine cuts you're talking about -- it simply doesn't have the accuracy, despite what is implied by the word "laser." These are really only useful, IMHO, for framers who need to make repeated cuts to within some number of millimeters of the same length.

    Also, holding pieces as small as you're contemplating cutting on a power miter saw is liable to be difficult at best, and extremely dangerous at worst.

    I would recommend what I use, which is a Nobex Champion (hand) Miter Saw. I've had mine for about seven years now and just love the quality and precison of the cuts it gives me.

    This is not some flimsy piece of junk. It's a very precise saw/mechanism, made in Sweden, and sells for $139.99. It comes stock with an 18 tooth-per-inch blade, but if you want the smoothest cut possible buy a 32 tpi blade as well for another $14.99.

    Here's a link to it at Highland Hardware:

    http://www.tools-for-woodworking.com...ROD&ProdID=877

    I'm posting a pic below.

    HTH,

    Tom

    p.s. Chris and John are great guys, but they think that anything weighing less than 500 pounds and/or drawing less than 20 amps is not really a tool.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    ---------------------------------------
    James Krenov says that "the craftsman lives in a
    condition where the size of his public is almost in
    inverse proportion to the quality of his work."
    (James Krenov, A Cabinetmaker's Notebook, 1976.)

    I guess my public must be pretty huge then.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom LaRussa
    p.s. Chris and John are great guys, but they think that anything weighing less than 500 pounds and/or drawing less than 20 amps is not really a tool.
    Hey, watch-it, there Tom! I resemble that remark!
    Cheers,
    John K. Miliunas

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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom LaRussa
    <br>
    p.s. Chris and John are great guys, but they think that anything weighing less than 500 pounds and/or drawing less than 20 amps is not really a tool.
    Hey, watch-it, there Tom! I resemble that remark!

    BTW, I've been posting more in the Neander section!
    <!-- / message --><!-- sig -->
    Wood: a fickle medium....

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  13. #13
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    Hey John---where is the gas tank at on Tom's saw??????

    Cutting small on a table saw works.---use a good blade and set the height of the blade to match your stock. If you stay away from the saws with big wings you can get one with a small foot print.
    ---I may be broke---but we have plenty of wood---

  14. #14
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    James,

    Believe or not, in your case I think I'd go with the Ryobi BT3000 table saw over a powered mitre saw. The Ryobi is small and relatively cheap. Besides, you will need a table saw anyway in order to rip the wood down to appropriate size before crosscutting into squares.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gary Max
    Hey John---where is the gas tank at on Tom's saw??????

    Cutting small on a table saw works.---use a good blade and set the height of the blade to match your stock. If you stay away from the saws with big wings you can get one with a small foot print.
    Not sure 'bout the gas tank, Gary, but I'm thinkin' there might be a battery or two underneath that cutting deck!

    And yes, I still think some type of TS setup would be the most accurate and safest. The Ryobi mentioned would probably be a real good option.
    Cheers,
    John K. Miliunas

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