sanding schedule

[Christopher Kanda]

What is your usuall schedule to sand your projects? Are there some grits that can be skipped over? I've seen some using naptha to check for areas to go over again but would mineral spirits work too?

[Richard Dragin]

100, 220 (and if no stain I use 320 and a 500 polishing pad). The key is to use Industrial Abrasives Rhyno discs on my ROS because I don't have to chase swirl marks like when I used to use the cheap Norton stuff. I can go from saw marks to finish ready in two steps and I use my hands to feel where I have missed.

[Mike Reinholtz]

Richard-
Holy crap, you can skip all the other grits? Can you post a link where you get them?

I thought chasing the swirl marks was just part of the process...

[Richard Dragin]

Mike,
I used to think the same thing till I got some quality paper, I hear Klingspor is good also but I havn't tried it.
Here is where I order my paper:

http://www.industrialabrasives.com/

I have only ordered the Rhyno discs and sheets of paper. I think it's the glue but the particles don't come off and leave those damn swirls marks. Not all sandpaper is created equal.

[Greg Portland]

Keep in mind that you can start at 220 grit... it will just take a long time! Reducing the number of grits is great for cost savings as long as the sanding time isn't impacted (1 quick pass with 80 grit vs multiple long passes with 120 grit, etc.). I have not used Rhyno paper, I'm just making a general statement about sanding tradeoffs.

Personally, I use 80 -> 150 -> 220 for most woods. For harder woods or wood with dense knots (walnut) I will use every grit because the knots REALLY show the swirl marks.

[Richard Dragin]

Greg,
I agree that time is the main factor above cost for me. I would rather switch discs/grits than waste time. I just find I don't need to for the work I am doing when I use the IA stuff. The 100 cuts as good as the 60 Norton.

I find I wait to long to switch to a fresh disc and waste time there.

[Howard Acheson]

Personally, I don't think skipping grits is advisable. However, in the final analysis, if you can remove the scratches left from 120 paper by sanding next with 220, go at it.

As to naphtha vs mineral spirits for previewing the color and identifying incomplete sanding, mineral spirits will work just fine. However, it's slower eveporation chemical than naphtha so you will wait longer to get to the next step. Personally, I generally use DN alcohol because is evaporates even faster. But, you need to look quick or it will be gone. For large panels like dining tabletops, I'll generally use mineral spirits so I have time to really look at it.

[Richard Dragin]

For the sake of full disclosure... I am sanding a LOT of curved surfaces. A large table top may require a different approach. Sanding marks are one thing but the swirls are completely avoidable.

[Mike Zilis]

For my projects, I determine my starting grit based on the roughness of the surface I begin with. If it needs a lot of material removal, I start with 60 otherwise I start with 100. Then I follow up with 120, 180 and 220. If I want to go further I'll do 320. I have a few higher grits I keep around for specialty purposes; wet/dry sheets to true up a hand plane bottom, etc..

95% of my sanding is done with a 5" ROS. I really like the Abranet Mirka mesh sanding discs for 120 and higher. For 60 and 100 I use the Mirka 23-615-060 / 23-615-100 Bulldog Gold hook and loop discs.

-Mike

[John D Watson]

I agree with Mike and Howard. Starting point based on condition of wood and use the next higher grit to get rid of the scratches left by the previous grit. It takes off much less material and is quicker. I always finish with hand (sanding block) sanding with the grain 320 up to 600 depending on the hardness of the wood. Some of the oilier woods benefit greatly from this final hand sanding. No matter how you do it, sanding sucks, but the final product will show the effort.

[Andrew Joiner]

For the sake of full disclosure... I am sanding a LOT of curved surfaces. A large table top may require a different approach. Sanding marks are one thing but the swirls are completely avoidable.

Richard,
What brand/size sander do you use?

[Richard Dragin]

5" Makita 5010

[Kent A Bathurst]

Have used discs from Klingspor. Happy with them.

Have also used Mirka discs - available everywhere, incl Amazon. Happier. 40% more $$. ($16/50 v $12/50). Worth the money - but its not a lot of money, IMO.

Been using Klingspor for the last year. I'll change to Mirka next buy for no big reason, just seem to like them better. But not a big difference either way.

I buy a box of 50 at a time 80-100-120-150-180 & both brands seem to last forever. Buy 60 and 220 when box gets low, but those are rarely used.

Haven't used the Indust Abras Rhyno. Maybe I will.

[Van Huskey]

The only place I skip is the beginning depending on the tool marks left when I am ready to start. 90% of the time I start with 100 then 120-150-180 and maybe 220. Exposed end grain I go one or two grits higher to balance absorbtion is it is getting stained. The problem is every project, finish and wood requires a different approach BUT as a general rule I don't skip grits because it usually is not economical either money or time in the end.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

I agree with NOT using cheapo sandpaper. The higher quality papers, while a few more bucks, are far more consistent in grit quality. I learned the hard way a long time ago, that sometimes 100 grit cheapo paper has a 30 grit rock in it, and that leaves a 30 grit swirl, which takes a LONG time to get out with 150 grit. I usually try not to skip too many grits, most of the work is done with 100 and 220. I use 320 sparingly. Most times after I raise the nap.