Crosscutting with a Track Saw

[Steve Friedman]

I am considering buying the EZ Smart or one of the track saws (not sure which one yet), but one of the things I want to use it for is to make some simple boxes (no dovetails). I am convinced that all of them are great for cutting sheet goods and ripping long boards, but am not so sure about how effective they are to crosscut narrow (2" - 6") boards to make the sides of the boxes. Even with an 18" track, would cutting a 2" wide board leave 16" of unsupported track?

I can see how using the MFT or the EZ Smart Bridge would help, but have no available floor space to give them and was hoping to get something with maximum mobility.

Thanks, Steve

[Greg Portland]

I used a festool saw with a long and a short track for a recent cabinet project. It is definitely doable, just not as ideal as a cabinet saw for repeatable cuts (MFT makes repeat cuts easy). Some critical supplies:

- marking knife
- 1" rigid styrofoam insulation board
- razor blades

Use the marking knife to mark each end of the cut (either measured with a ruler, story stick, or existing piece). Stick a razor blade into each mark. Shove the rail against the blades, place saw on track, remove blades and make your cut. Use the styrofoam as a backer / cutting surface. You may want to start on the floor if you are using 4x8 sheet goods.

Edit: For crosscuts, make sure the track is fully supported, it will eliminate tipping & the track will stay in place.

[Paul Greathouse]

Steve

I have used the EZ smart for about 5 years now. I have quite a bit of their equipment in my shop. I would suggest the best thing for you to use for small cross cuts is the 18" rail with the square. I do all my small cross cuts on my miter saw but in the absence of a miter saw the next easiest method would be a short rail and square.

I assume you have already checked out the Eurekazone website, if not give it a look. They have a forum that is accessable throught their website that they call "the tracksaw forum" but it doesn't see the traffic SMC does because they are more specific to just tracksaw stuff. Also, if you would like, feel free to PM me. I am familiar with most of their stuff especially the older equipment.

To address your concern about the rest of the rail being unsupported, just lay a piece of scrap the same thickness as the piece you are cutting under the other end of the rail for support. I have my square on a 64" rail for breaking down sheets of plywood and have made small crosscuts with it several times using this method.

[Dino Makropoulos]

I am considering buying the EZ Smart or one of the track saws (not sure which one yet), but one of the things I want to use it for is to make some simple boxes (no dovetails). I am convinced that all of them are great for cutting sheet goods and ripping long boards, but am not so sure about how effective they are to crosscut narrow (2" - 6") boards to make the sides of the boxes. Even with an 18" track, would cutting a 2" wide board leave 16" of unsupported track?

I can see how using the MFT or the EZ Smart Bridge would help, but have no available floor space to give them and was hoping to get something with maximum mobility.
Thanks, Steve

Steve,
For your application...
A Mini powerbench is the ideal setup.
This one was made for a flooring contractor.
...For max. mobility...

Rip and cross cut capacity is 25-1/2". (edit to add) under the guide rail ( bridge)
Unlimited ripping next to the guide rail. ( not showing here)
Tabletop is 18"x24"
Weight? 15 LBS.

042.jpg

064.jpg

No additional support needed for narrow rip and cross cuts.
Here is a picture of a twisted, wet (green) and bowed lumber.
this setup is very stable and you don't have to support the tracks.

[Ray Newman]

Dino M: now nthat looks like a worth while shop and job site item!

Can you give us some more details, pictuires, etc., as how it was constructed, operates, etc.

I can foresee some uses for something like that in the shop.

[Dino Makropoulos]

Ray,
This is one of 100's powerbenches made to spec.
The basic parts are the Bridge, ( B-300) Rail, and a Univarsal sawbase.
The Bridge lifts/lower the rail and applies clamping pressure to the wood.
You position the wood against squaring stops/fences and you slide the saw on the track. The saw stays on the track.
No need to lift the saw due to 4" lifting capacity of the B-300.
Even if you work with different thickness wood.

Imagine a Beam saw upside down and you get the idea.

Your capacity is limited to the size of your track.
You can put the wood under or next to the track.
You can use any hand help power tool including router, saw, planer, drill etc.
You can addapt digital readouts or any tablesaw accesories to the bench.

First picture shows the basics.
Lift the handle to lower the bridge, (clamp the wood) and make your cut.
Second picture: Lower the handle to lift the rail and the saw.
Very simple and very-very safe.


thanks.
YCF Dino
eurekazone.

[Steve Friedman]

Dino,

I considered that bridge package, but don't you also need a square to be able to do 90 degree crosscuts or is there something else that serves the same purpose?

[Dino Makropoulos]

Dino,

I considered that bridge package, but don't you also need a square to be able to do 90 degree crosscuts or is there something else that serves the same purpose?

Steve,
Squaring stops or a piece of wood screwed to the side of the bench.


The idea is to position the Bridge square to one side of the table.
Very easy and stays in place forever.(5/16-18 bolts and nuts)
That side now serves as a squaring fence. (with stops)

For rip cuts you can use t-tracks perpendicular to the Guide rail and a straight piece of wood/aluminum.
If you like, you can use a tablesaw fence bolted to the "squared" side.

You can build a powerbench with 1"x4"s and a piece of 3/4" plywood.

[Rich Engelhardt]

I'm curious here.
Why not just use a miter saw?

[Matt Meiser]

Really--even a 10" compound miter saw will easily crosscut a 6" board. They are inexpensive and readily available and can cut compound miters (hence the name ) if you want to get fancy. Or you can put in a cheap blade and chop construction lumber to build a deck or whatever.

[Steve Friedman]

Thanks everyone.

I just got back from the NJ Woodworking Show and, after looking at all 3 track saws, realize that they are perfect for breaking down sheet goods and making accurate rip cuts. But, they were clearly not designed for crosscutting narrow boards, otherwise they would sell shorter tracks! They can all be rigged to work, but it seems so cumbersome that it would be faster to use a hand saw.

Clearly a miter saw would be the simplest, but virtually all my available space is occupied by hand tools, so I was drawn by the compactness and versatility of the track saws. I guess I am a hand tool person trying to find one power tool that will do everything I don't want to do (or can't do) by hand.

It seems that my choices are to get better with a handsaw or get a miter saw. The only other option seems to be the Eurekazone bridge, but then I would also need a new circular saw large enough to do 8/4 lumber with the track.

Steve

[Dino Makropoulos]

Thanks everyone.

I just got back from the NJ Woodworking Show and, after looking at all 3 track saws, realize that they are perfect for breaking down sheet goods and making accurate rip cuts. But, they were clearly not designed for crosscutting narrow boards, otherwise they would sell shorter tracks! They can all be rigged to work, but it seems so cumbersome that it would be faster to use a hand saw.

Clearly a miter saw would be the simplest, but virtually all my available space is occupied by hand tools, so I was drawn by the compactness and versatility of the track saws. I guess I am a hand tool person trying to find one power tool that will do everything I don't want to do (or can't do) by hand.

It seems that my choices are to get better with a handsaw or get a miter saw. The only other option seems to be the Eurekazone bridge, but then I would also need a new circular saw large enough to do 8/4 lumber with the track.

Steve

Steve,
Next time visit the ez factory (south plainfield NJ) and see the setups that we use for our production.
We cut wood, plastic and aluminum.

For cross cutting narrow 8/4" lumber the miter saw is the best way.
Over 10" to any length the Bridge is up to the task but expensive.

If you go the miter saw route, use a zero clearance fence and insert.
You can even make a special jig for limited ripping narrow pieces on your miter saw.
The goal is to keep the wood under pressure at all times.

You right about the cost in your situation.
The good large Circular saws are expensive.
I have no idea why a 10" simple CS costs
more ( 2-3-4 times) than a 10" miter saw.

Good luck and remember to follow the Dead Wood Concept.


YCF Dino
Eurekazone

[John Petsche]

Awesome pics. Thanks

[George Gyulatyan]

Why not use a large try square and a circular saw to crosscut narrow boards? You just need to hold the squre with your hand, butt the saw to it and make the cut. However, getting repeatble cuts for identical parts will be tricky.

[Vince Shriver]

Compound Sliding Chop Saw or Radial Arm Saw are the ideal tools for such a task