Bandsaw - The Least Used Tool in My Shop, How's it For You?

[Mike Shields]

Couple years back I got a really good deal on a new 18" Jet bs. About the most I've ever used it for was cutting scraps to make smaller scraps.

I never could get the saw to cut nice enough. I'm hesitant to resaw any of my nicer stock, for that reason.

Can any of you post some resaw cutting results to inspire me to spend
the time (and possibly money) to finally put this tool to good use?

I'd attach some pics, but who wants to see scraps!

Mike

[James Phillips]

Get some good blades and take your time. Also do not expect a finished cut from a band saw. In my shop it does not get used that much but when I need it, it is irreplaceable.

[Jeff Willard]

Here's some sipo that I recently sliced. 10" wide, 50" long, 1/8" thick. I also have some 1/16" thick from the same board. I've also attached a photo of a piece of ash that I split, to show the surface detail. Saw is a Laguna LT14 SUV with a Lenox TriMaster, 3 TPI band, Driftmaster fence.

I remember there being an issue with the older Jets. IIRC, something about column flex. I'm sure someone with more knowledge about it will chime in soon.

[Wally Alexander]

I have a 14" Delta with the riser block. I use it quite a bit. Right out of the box I was able to resaw quite well with the stock blade. I've since changed to Timberwolf blades. I also use it alot for cutting out patterns, at least ones with a curve. When ever possible I make a pattern of a project I'm working on so when I decide to make another one it will be an exact duplicate. The only complaint I have is blades seem to get dull quicker than I think they should, but that may be subjective. Wally

[Greg Cole]

Bandsaws need to be set up properly to get good results, not saying yours isn't. Buy one of the Bandsaw books from Duginski, read it & then take it to the shop with you if you haven't already.
Also get a good blade & use it ONLY for resawing. If you use a resaw blade for cutting curves you are basically ruining the resaw blade.

[Wayne Jolly]

I was like you for a long time. Bought a 14" Sears professional bandsaw (got it new in box for $150 so I just HAD to buy it) but never used it for much because I just couldn't get it to cut worth a hoot. But I kept finding more and more uses for it so I decided it was time to do some reading and tuning. I tracked down the real manufacturer and bought a riser kit, just recently added some ball bearing guides, did a general tune up (or two or three), and now I use it quite often. And like it.

So I agree with those that say to read, tune, and use. You just might become a convert too.

xeddog

[Van Huskey]

So I agree with those that say to read, tune, and use. You just might become a convert too.

xeddog

Truer words...

Most machines in the shop need to be setup, much of that comes down to cold hard dial indicators and some time, a bandsaw needs to be tuned like an instrument and frankly there are no good tools to setup tension on a woodworking saw it is mostly feel with some deference to the scale on the saw. Get Duginske's bandsaw book, get a good blade set the saw up as best you can (with the book as a guide) then practice. The bandsaw is a lot like the router once your eyes are opened the versatility is amazing.

[Jerome Hanby]

My band saw use is feast or famine. When I need it, it gets used a bunch then go untouched for the next 6 months. I've purchased an old Rockwell 14" saw and a riser kit. Will get a few goodies from the Iturra catalog and a bigger motor one of these days and try to turn it into something really useful.

[Paul Atkins]

Except for my lathes, my bandsaw is my most used tool. A 20" PM that has a 2 speed box and variable speed to cut 12" veneer or 3/4" steel plate. Wish I had it 10 years earlier. I use 1/4" to 3/4" blades depending on what I'm cutting.

[Jason White]

Like you, I use it mostly for cutting scraps into smaller pieces so that they will fit in the trash can. I used to do this on the miter saw, but it's not very safe if your lumber is crooked.

I'm also starting to use a lot more rough lumber, so I use it for resawing and rough sizing boards that haven't yet been straightened out on the jointer and planer. The kickback risk when cutting warped boards on a bandsaw, if any, is minimal.

Now if I could just figure out how to improve the dust collection!!

Jason

Couple years back I got a really good deal on a new 18" Jet bs. About the most I've ever used it for was cutting scraps to make smaller scraps.

I never could get the saw to cut nice enough. I'm hesitant to resaw any of my nicer stock, for that reason.

Can any of you post some resaw cutting results to inspire me to spend
the time (and possibly money) to finally put this tool to good use?

I'd attach some pics, but who wants to see scraps!

Mike

[Myk Rian]

Bandsaw blades have drift. To adjust for it, take a piece of scrap 4-6" wide and draw a line down an edge. Resaw down that line. You may find that you have to angle the stock into the blade for it to cut down the line. That is the drift angle. Adjust your fence for that angle.
Use the flutter method to adjust tension.

[Jason White]

What's the flutter method? Never heard of that one.

I just give the blade a wiggle with my thumb and index finger. When I've got about 1/8" or so of play in it, and it "feels" right, I'm happy. No fuss, no muss.

Guess that makes me the "bandsaw blade whisperer."

Jason

Bandsaw blades have drift. To adjust for it, take a piece of scrap 4-6" wide and draw a line down an edge. Resaw down that line. You may find that you have to angle the stock into the blade for it to cut down the line. That is the drift angle. Adjust your fence for that angle.
Use the flutter method to adjust tension.

[Robert Reece]

I have a Jet 18" bandsaw too. It's an older model, not the triangle column type. I wasn't too happy with mine so I put some time into it. I put a new blade on it (a Woodmaster CT), I tuned it up, etc. and it still is not that great. It's impossible to get the two wheels in a plane because the top wheel changes plane as you tighten the blade. The blade tracking is not very good. It's underpowered. It vibrates a lot. The column has measurable flex in it. And so on.

In the end, I can resaw, but not that quickly and the finish surface needs to be run through the planer for sure. It's not even sandable quality.

However, I am really starting to like the bandsaw. I do a lot of ripping on it which is much safer than on the tablesaw (at least it feels that way to me).

So while I like the theory of the bandsaw, I don't currently have a good implementation of a bandsaw. It will probably be the next tool to be upgraded.

[Mike Shields]

I have a Jet 18" bandsaw too. It's an older model, not the triangle column type. I wasn't too happy with mine so I put some time into it. I put a new blade on it (a Woodmaster CT), I tuned it up, etc. and it still is not that great. It's impossible to get the two wheels in a plane because the top wheel changes plane as you tighten the blade. The blade tracking is not very good. It's underpowered. It vibrates a lot. The column has measurable flex in it. And so on.

Rat fooey...

...if we got the same model.

Please don't tell me, I don't want to know!

Interested parties, you may see a mildy used 18" Jet in the classified!!

Mike

[Charles Krieger]

I have a Jet 14” bandsaw with a riser block. I recently added a Kreg fence and Carter guides. Now that I have the saw tuned up I find I use it much more often. The least used tool in my shop is a DeWalt job site table saw. My most used is the Powermatic 2000 table saw.