Dust collector advice.....

[David Hostetler]

You can make that HF DC work, however...

#1. You really must upgrade the filter from the 5 micron bag to a 1 micron or lower filtering cartridge to keep the ultra fine dust IN the collector...

#2. If you can afford to, especially with the short runs you are talking about, I would try to arrange it so everything is on one 6" main and branches. Using proper blast gates. I know 6" is a pain to get, and expensive. There is a reason I am using 4". I am not going to assert like others here that 4" can't work, there is just too much evidence it can, and does when set up right, BUT, it is really pushing it to make it work the way it should... While the fittings on HF DC are for 5", you can modify that DC to accept a 6" duct.

#4. Unless you are running the Veritas separator lid, I don't know of a commercially available separator lid that is all that effective. Consider building yourself a Thien separator lid. They really don't take that long to build, and do a top notch job and separating your chips, AND most of your fines...

#5. Rod really nailed down what you need to do on the machines. It takes some tinkering. Including in my case, making prototype hoods from cardboard and duct tape to find something that works before I commit to something more permanent...

#6. Even with the best dust collection system, you WILL miss some of the fines. You need an ambient air fliter of some sort, and may want to use a respirator...

IF you can afford one, a Dylos or similar particle meter would go a LONG way to helping you figure out how effective your dust collection / control efforts are...

[Joel Earl]

As usual the boys have done a pretty nice job of summarizing. Nice to have comments especially from the guys who have or are using today.

I ran about 14' of 6" pvc across a wall with 4 wyes and my 3-4' hose sections from there to tool locations using 4" hose. That tool on the end was having at best maybe 70-80% of the chips picked up until I made up my own blast gates off the drops. Maybe 80-90% then but it was better. Those plastic Rockler gates just lousy. Or the ones I had were anyway.

Implementing this required I pulled off the factory 5" outlet and made a simple 6" right there and led off that. Don't toss away that original just in case you need it for warranty!

I got a buddy runs over 20" of 4" pvc - like someone said, keep it down low might be the secret to stretching out a few more feet as that gets eaten up going north to ceiling. I might be the one >>> and the only one at that, who did not notice that much of a difference from the 4" pvc I originally used before I swapped to the 6" except at the first drop where it was much better for sure. I am thinking the 5" might be the best too - but was not willing to pay the tab for it.

Heck of a nice little DC for the money I felt when it was in my shop awhile back. Lose the factory bags though --- as fast as the budget permits

[David Hostetler]

FWIW, of the mods I have done, what seems to make the most difference with my HF DC air flow wise...

#1. Lose the factory bag, it really strangles air flow, and does a lousy job filtering. The Wynn canister was like supercharging this DC.

#2. It's no permanent setup yet, but I run S&D pipe connected to my 4" flex line to allow me to keep my flex as short as possible.

And while this was done on a friend's HF DC and not mine (yet) two other big improvements are...

#3. "Stove Pipe Mod". Replace the 5" flex hose with a couple of those adjustable 5" stove pipe elbows, and a short run of 5" stove pipe. All seams duct taped to seal...

#5. Same guy... 5" HVAC metal line to 5x5x4 wyes, to 4" blast gate AT THE Y, then to the machines.

Keep the runs as SHORT, STRAIGHT and SMOOTH as possible, avoid going up / down as much as possible. It is lousy for floor space, but running your duct along the floor keeps you from fighting gravity so much until the dust is where the pull is strongest...

Separators are NOT just for keeping you from having to empty bags so much. Separators are to keep your filter cleaner, longer, thus keeping up your air flow. They DO have a slight hit in airflow, but the cost of the hit is FAR lower than what a slightly dirty filter would be... Let alone a clogged one.

[Louie Ballis]

Thanks for all the good infor guys, it is alot of help. I do plan on ordering a wynn filter to replace the cloth bag this week.


And I plan on making all of my runs no taller than 3 feet off of the floor before branching to the machine.

Today I finally found the 4 inch 2729 drain pipe. At the same time I also got the long radius elbows and y 's (rather than t's).

How do I connect the 4 inch clear hose to the drain pipe? It seems to be the same diameter (but it is cold, I may have sone shrinkage, should I warm up the hose with a heat gun?) Or muscle it over the pipe, or am I missing a fitting?


Sorry to be such a pain about this, but I have been to the hardware store no less than 10 times trying to find the right way to do this.

[David Hostetler]

Google "Fitting 4" DC Hose to 4" Sewer and Drain PVC." The first link is a thread on Phil Thien's forum I posted. In the 4th post, I link a video on Youtube showing me simply work the hose OVER the S&D pipe like you would install a radiator hose on a car... This was with Lowes 4" S&D pipe, and Penn State Superflex hose...

From what I understand, hose sizes vary by manufacturer. 4" may NOT really be 4"... Frustrating I know, but it is what it is... If you cannot work the hose onto the pipe, you could try a heat gun, or maybe a safer bet would be a hair dryer to stretch the hose just a hair to get it over the pipe...

[Louie Ballis]

Thanks Dave you're a prince.

[David Hostetler]

Nah, a Duke maybe...

[Louie Ballis]

I'll try tonight and get the main part of the duct work done. Wouldnt you know it though.... I am 2 blast gates short.

I ll warm up the flex hose and place it over the pvc. I hope that it works.

[Joel Earl]

Can I add to the Duke's comment
No consistency in any hose! I have used the dryer and a little Vaseline to make it happen

Duke huh????? Wasssup with that. She calls him the King

[Dan Friedrichs]

Duke huh????? Wasssup with that.

An Earl questioning the Duke?

[Bill Blackburn]

I betcha we not talking the Duke of Earl here

I, as King of Make A Mess, have the power to annoint or even taketh away so be careful here gentleman

Where's a hint of spring >>>>>>>> anyone?

[Fred Bruegmann]

I've been reading through a number of threads about the HF DC and decided to go with one. I've done the stove pipe mod and have run 5" galvanized duct along the floor w/ 5x5x5 wyes at each branch. I've continued with a 5" galvanized 45 deg elbow from the wye and then added a 5" blastgate.

Since I have a 4" port on my sawstop contractor saw, I need to either reduce down to 4" flex hose to connect to the saw or use 5" flex hose and reduce down to 4" right at the saw dust port. I need about 8' of flex hose from the blast gate to the saw. Can't use duct because my shop is small enough that everything needs to be moved out of the way when not in use.

Would 5" hose reduced to 4" at the saw be better than reducing at the blast gate and running 4" to the saw or would it not make any difference? If it doesn't improve things I'd go w/ 4" hose since its cheaper.

Thanks

Fred

[Joel Earl]

So this type of pipe wouldnt be available at Home deot or Loews?

Lowes carries it. Menards too. HD does not here in TC area. They do have the thick walled heavy Sch 40. You don't want that as others said.
Mills Fleet Farm also has it - and all irrigation places do. Menards is cheaper than Lowes but often is sold out here

[Joel Earl]

If you can't use solid pipe save the $$ and use the 4" hose...as little as you can.

I ran a HF and once more than 15-18' out on run I don't think it knew if I had 4" or 6" on it. That's getting close to taxing the DC at that point IMO. Still does the job but it is at the limit too. BTW - loved that bugger. Worked it's arse off for me for a long time.

[Fred Bruegmann]

Thanks Joel

Fred