Table saw alignment

[Chuck Isaacson]

So I went to Rockler today to get some toys and ended up leaving with the Superbar dial indicator. I am not exactly happy with the functionality of it, but it works one the less. I might actually take it back and get something else. But in the process of using it, I discovered that my table top it about .010" out of alignment with the blade from front to back. Is this something that I really need to worry about? It seems like a lot, but is it really?

[Joe Kieve]

Chuck,
If you're using your new toy in the miter slot and it's showing .010 out, then yes, that's a little much. Shouldn't be more than .001-.002 from front to back using the same tooth each time. There have been several threads here on SMC that show how to align miter slot to saw blade.
Keep the indicator, you can use it for a number of things, like checking runout on sawblades, drillpress spindle, setting jointer knives, the list goes on.

joe

[Adam Strong]

The Superbar is a bit over priced. Consider returning it and making your own. Here is one I made with a HF dial indicator I have had for some time, scrap cherry, and some hardware I had lying around.

And to echo the previous post... .010" is a bit much. Try to get it as close to .000" as possible.

[Randy Rizzo]

Try this website http://www.tablesawalignment.com/nologin.htm probably the best info on table saw alignment I've come across. I happened across this on another thread here.

[Joe Kieve]

Adam,
You been in my shop?? Your pics look just like the one I made with a HF indicator. Works good doesn't it. The only thing I may have done differently was that I split the piece that slides in the miter slot on the band saw down to the screw hole. I used a flat head stove bolt and countersunk the screw hole. That way, when I tighten the locking knob, it swells the piece just enough so that there is no slop when I slide it from one end to the other.

joe

[glenn bradley]

I'm at about .001" and use a shop made jig. Spend that money on wood

[Adam Strong]

Adam,
You been in my shop?? Your pics look just like the one I made with a HF indicator. Works good doesn't it. The only thing I may have done differently was that I split the piece that slides in the miter slot on the band saw down to the screw hole. I used a flat head stove bolt and countersunk the screw hole. That way, when I tighten the locking knob, it swells the piece just enough so that there is no slop when I slide it from one end to the other.

joe

Works great! After using the tool for a while, I have thought of doing exactly what you did to the miter bar. I cut the miter bar snug enough in the miter slot to hold itself in place with no play and the poly/wax finish build up makes it almost too snug. If things loosen up, another coat of two of poly should be all I need to snug things up a bit.

[Chuck Isaacson]

Well, I went from about .010" out of alignment to .025". I cant get this thing straight to save my life!!!!. It is a huge pain in the A$$!!!. I worked on it for at least 4 hours last night. I have the whole thing torn apart pretty much. Took off the extension table and fence rail. But I still cannot get it straight!!!!! Anyone in the Madison area that can give me a hand would be great!!!!

[Glen Blanchard]

Chuck - What kind of saw is it? By chance, is it a contractors saw? If it is, do a search here for PALS. Those who have used them on a contractors saw, seem to swear by them.

http://www.woodcraft.com/Family/2020...nt-System.aspx

If your saw is not a contractor saw, then, ignore this post.

[Chuck Isaacson]

It is a General 650... Thanks though..

[Dave Gaul]

It is a General 650... Thanks though..

Chuck,

I assume then that your saw has cabinet mounted trunions then...

My best advice is to take your time a be patient! I lined up my R4511 using the stick-and-screw method, and it was not quite simple! It took lots of trial and error to get it just right, I haven't measure yet, but I'm probably ~.001" as I have no burn marks or binding when ripping.

[Glen Blanchard]

It is a General 650... Thanks though..

In that case, I assume that there are four bolts that you loosen to adjust the table. Try loosening one of the four just enough to act as a pivot point. Loosen the others more so you can rotate the table around the pivot point. This may give you more control. From there, tap the table in the direction needed using a dead blow hammer.

[Lee Schierer]

When I did my saw I had problems with the star lock washers sliding back into the same grooves hey had created in the castings. I carefully rotated the lock washers so the teeth didn't line up with the old slots and then when I tightened the bolts the carrige stayed where it was.

[Chuck Isaacson]

I have tried the whole pivot thing and it has not worked. Yes it is cabinet mounted trunnion. My next thing was going to be using clamps to try and get it straight. The top will move freely, but it work get straight. Also when I tighten some of the corners, the top moves with it.. A real pain!!!!

[Ray Newman]

When I adjusted top on my Unisaw, I

--First removed the blade to check for arbor run out. Might as well check all bases.

Then,
--Remove the extension wings.

--Loosen the 4 bolts holding the top to the cabinet, leaving them tight enough so that top can only be moved by tapping with a rubber mallet.
--Once aligned, tightened the bolts on the opposite corners, for 'zample left front; right rear. Don't fully tightened.

Tightened one about 'half-way"; then do the other. Check alignment. If necessary, move the top by judicious application of the rubber mallet
--If OK, tightened the remaining two bolts (left rear, right front) as above. Check alignment.

--If OK fully tighten all bolts (left front, right rear, then left rear, right front. Check alignment.

CAVEAT: It doesn't take much pressure to move the top further out of alignment.

I found that it is a chore that appears relatively easy, but can be a bit time consuming if you are too heavy handed and easily frustrated. If you don't move your saw, you'll probably only need to do it once. My Unisaw was about 15 years old when we moved interstate. The top shifted a bit from the almost 800 mile trip in the moving van. Haven't touched it since.

What I am dreading is changingt the knives on my 15" surface plane. The 8" jointer has the "DISPOZ-A-BLADE" system on it. Takes about 15 minutes to change the double-sided blades
http://www.estausa.com/index.html