A thin sheet-metal framed saw with a positive hook blade will climb like crazy while a big old piece of "arn" saw with a negative hook blade won't unless something really went wrong.Originally Posted by jack duren
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A thin sheet-metal framed saw with a positive hook blade will climb like crazy while a big old piece of "arn" saw with a negative hook blade won't unless something really went wrong.
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There are RAS's and RAS's. I used to have a RIDGID unit, same as the contemporary Craftsman saw. It was prone to climb over the cut. I didn't like it, and after it shot towards me one last time, it went away. Eventually I got a Delta Longarm 33-411. Completely different class of saw. Entirely cast iron, 5HP motor. I have had no issues with it at all, but the lesson of the RIDGID sticks with me. Not a bad thing, if this beast got me, it might be fatal vs a nasty injury with the smaller saw.
This thing would be capable of crosscutting railroad ties, but I'm not sure I want to go there!
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I have two Delta 12" 33-890's................
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ive always thought that name was kinda hilarious Never even stopped to look at their tools, backs up my thought when you said that it was prone to climb over the cut.
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Jack, I used to have a 33-890. Nice saw. I now have an 80s Dewalt home shop, cast iron arm. I can almost guarantee that a blade change will change your mind.
I put a new neg hook blade on mine a few weeks ago. Absolutely no self feed tendency now.
Also used to have a 14" 3hp Delta turret saw. For that thing no neg hook blades were available so I used the original steel framers blades. In hard woods it would self feed and stall, but never climbed over like some lighter saws will with the wrong blade.
On a side note, I'm amazed that this old thread still draws interest!!
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Never us a RAS with a positive (Table saw) blade. Always a negative or zero degree hook angle blade. With a positive hook angle blade the blade will be trying to pull the wood up off the table and into the blade where excitement will ensue. With a negative hook angle blade when you pull cut with a RAS the blade will push the wood down and back against the table and fence.
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I only run negative hook.
With 33 years working as a woodworker for a living you will see things that seem impossible but will happen. Can't or won't don't exist in my woodworking career....These words are as catchy to me as "free"....
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No, they don't. My saw, a Dewalt 7790, does not, even on 4x material (not a through cut).
Carl Kunkel, son of Wally Kunkel, wanted to dispel that myth.
Carl Kunkel with a properly tuned Dewalt GWI and a sharp Mr. Sawdust blade (Forest WWI, with TCP "Triple Chip profile" has a low 5 deg. positive hook angle- a special order from Forest)
He is using just a couple of fingers to move the carriage, then slows and releases his finger mid-cut. Please, realize this is not the preferred method of operation.
Comments made here are my own and, according to my children, do not reflect the opinions of any other person... anywhere, anytime.
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Pull it fast enough and see if it still doesn't....
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Poor technique using any tool is reason for failure or unexpected results.
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As I said can't and won't don't exist.....
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????
Aha... that certainly sheds some light. If this is how you use your saw, I can see why it might climb.
You may be better off with a chop saw.
Comments made here are my own and, according to my children, do not reflect the opinions of any other person... anywhere, anytime.
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Have issues do we.....You-cant-handle-the-truth.jpg
Last edited by jack duren; 11-25-2016 at 5:34 PM.
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My 12" Dewalt does that
Carpe Lignum
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