Table Saw Blade guard...loaded question warning!!!!

[Jon Lanier]

I am sorry, I can't answer your question... out of fear. I am afraid that I would incur the wrath of everyone else here on the forum, so I plead the fifth.

+1 I concur.

[Jon Todd]

I have the same Jet saw with the low profile riving Knife and I mever use the gaurd. I did just buy an excalibur Ceilingmount blade dust gaurd but thats mainly for the dust.

[Chad Stucke]

I generally don't use the guard but keep thinking I am going to make a good one.
I want to mount it from the celing so I can cut anything without removing it and make it easy to adjust.
I would like to incorporate a dust colector into it.
Has anyone else done this?
Chad

[Rod Sheridan]

I always use the guard...........Period.

If I can't perform an operation on the TS without removing the guard, then that tells me that the TS is the wrong machine for that operation, or I need to purchase or make a different guard for that operation.

I have an Excalibur overarm guard on the saw, along with a Merlin removable splitter.

I use the guard with my Jessem mitre gauge, and my home made sleds, no problem with either.

I can see the blade, for example when I'm trying to crosscut to a pencil line, however for ripping operations I'm looking at the back of the blade/end of fence area so I don't care about seeing the blade.

(The original guard on the General 650 is all metal, you can't see the blade since you don't need to. It really is cutting regardless of whether you're watching it.)

I know many people don't use a guard, however lets look at it this way. If you were at work and didn't use a guard, after a couple of reprimands, you'd be fired. I know, I fired people for those sort of safety offences when I was a manager.

Guards are there because we're human and occasionally do dumb things. Guards change the dumb occurrence from a life altering catastrophe, to an event that simply leaves your heart racing after you realize how close to being called "stumpy", you came.

Get in the habit of always using your guards. riving knives, splitters, jigs etc, it's a good habit to get into.

Regards, Rod.

[Richard Dragin]

Brian, I was quoting the other Brian.

BTW, I do have a Shark Guard and try to keep it on.

[Mike Cruz]

I suppose you could say that my guard specializes in dust collection....

[John Coloccia]

John,

Which SS model you are referring to ICS, PCS, or CS? I haven't got my new PCS tuned up yet and was curious if this is something to watch for. I've saved my old wider homebrew overarm guard just in case I don't like the narrow PCS blade guard.

Thanks,
-Todd

The CS, but I think the other ones are the same guard. I haven't seen the new guard with the DC built in. Maybe they fixed it on that. The predominant problem is that stupid bump in the front that catches on wood and causes the whole guard to move backwards on the hinge instead of straight up and down. The bump seems like it's just molded into the guard. BLAH.

[Van Huskey]

What is the obsession with seeing the blade on a table saw? If I didn't trust my fence I would get another one. On crosscuts it either references the sled or clamp it to the miter gauge sighting it up with the saw off. As long as I can reference the blade without the saw on I could care less about seeing the blade when it is running. If the blade isn't where I expect it to be then my problems are MUCH worse than seeing the blade.

[johnny means]

I don't use a guard because I want to see when I amputate my finger.

Actually I use mine the vast majority of the time. I have the original Sawstop guard and have not had any problems with it.

[Bill Davis]

I am kind of with Jack on this - actually not kind of. I just do not use one. Here is my deranged reasoning.

1. Magazines frequently show sawing operations with the guards removed 'for clarity'. I definately want clarity when I use my 3hp, carbide tipped, 4000RPM potential bone whacker.

2. It's much easier to keep my eye on the cutting edge. I would rather have my eye on the cutting edge than BE on the cutting edge.

3. I'm lazy. I didn't/don't like taking it off and putting it back on. I have a rear extension table which though not making it impossible does make it more of a pain for a lazy guy. I dont like pain either!

4. I think it is safer. Wow! How could I say a stupid thing like that. Here is more convoluted reasoning. I see that blur of carbide and think it looks kind of soft and fuzzy. I like soft and fuzzy don't you? But I do stop and think 'Thats not soft and fuzzy. It's dangerous. I'd better be careful'. So with each cut, and even as long as the blade is turning, I keep my eye on it and the placement of my precious digits and do what is necessary to prevent disaster. So far it's worked. In other words the best safety device is not the guard or riving knife but your brain! DO NOT LET WELL INTENTIONED PROPORTED SAFETY DEVICES CAUSE COMPLACENCY SUCH THAT YOU TURN OFF THE MOST IMPORTANT SAFETY DEVICE - YOUR BRAIN. Sorry for shouting.

5. Guess I'm stupid or something. I'm sure a lot of you will think so. But I'm 66 and use my tools a lot and have all my fingers and never had a significant shop accident and usually wear flip-flops while working (OSHA certified ones) in the shop. Stupid maybe. But I turn my main safety tool on high when in the shop.

P.S. The guard is always hanging right there on the shop wall in case someone comes in to work with me who wants it.

[Kevin Womer]

I always use one of the thin kerf or full kerf riving knives unless dados are being cut that came with my SC. When I looked at the Jet you have I did not like they made you purchase a low profile knife, if it is a saftey assessory why wouldn't that be included with the saw? The basket guard that came with my saw attaches just like the the riving knives and follow the blade, but I just feel like I can't see when I make cuts so I don't put in on ever.

[John Harden]

My saw has dust collection built into the guard, which is attached to the riving knife. It works extremely well, so as a result, it is always on the saw. Its very rare that I remove it. When I do, it's a quick release knob that comes off in about 5 seconds.

It does not have pawls on it.

Pics below. This is the first table saw where I actually used the guard. Had a PM-66 for about 12 years and it was never put on because it was clunky, slow to remove and re-install, and in my opinion, unsafe and worse than using nothing.

Regards,

John

[John Seiffer]

15 years ago I cut my thumb on the table saw. It healed OK but the tip has has been numb since then. After that I always use the guard. Except when I'm using it to make a dado. My saw has a riving knife that's always attached and the guard has dust collection built in. I use a Shark Guard by Leeway http://www.leestyron.com/sharkguard.php

I'm also anal about unplugging it when I'm changing the settings or measuring near the blade.

I go by the principle foresight is better than no sight.

[Peter Quinn]

Lots of blade guard questions lately. It sure does make you think about what you do and don't do in the shop, and why, when you try to formulate an answer. I work in a professional shop full time, and I have my own small shop where I do my thing on the weekends. In the pro shop there are no guards, no splitters, no riving knives installed even on newer saws that came with them. Time is money I guess, and keeping these things in tune in a rough environment and pulling them on and off for the wide variety of cuts being made takes time, so they are out. The big machines like gang rip saws and straight line saws all have safeties, but the table saws have none. So you learn to pay attention and set things up properly. Not a single TS injury in a combined work experience of over 200 years in the shop. Just luck?

In my home shop I use a bies splitter for every cut that I can on a PM66. The stock guard was gone the first day, because it was junk. Too hard to remove and replace, and it hung up on every thing that went through it. Dangerous junk best avoided. If it worked, and went in/out easily, I would probably still be using it, but I don't miss it. I have considered adding an over arm guard, but more for dust control than safety. I don't always have the focus at home that I do at work, so honestly I work slower and take far more safety precautions there generally. I may add an over arm guard as part of an upcoming outfeed table overhaul.

I certainly would not encourage anyone to work without a guard. The whole idea of needing to "see the cut line" sounds like hogwash to me. It is not a BS for heavens sake, If you really want to remember where the blade is paint a red stripe the length of the saw table in the line of the blades cut. Or stick your finger in the blade and it will paint it for you! Second though, don't do that.

[David Helm]

I'm with Bill Davis on this one; the very best piece of safety equipment is the "engaged brain". Like Bill, I have been using table saws professionally for over 40 years (I'm 67) and strongly believe in starting the brain before pushing the start button on any piece of machinery. I also must admit that I don't use the guard. I am getting a new TS with riving knife and think I'll use that.