Walnut logs... drying / waiting / turning...

[john brady]

Hello all,

I was lucky enough to be at the right place at the right time a few weeks ago, and got some really nice (and large) black walnut. The wood came from a tree that blew down during one of the storms we had here in the north east back in early February. The trees were along the service road coming into the community where I live. I was coming home just as they were loading up all the cut and split logs, and they gave me all that I could fit in the back of my sport trac.

The largest logs are 13" wide. As soon as I got them home, I unloaded them and applied end-grain sealer, and placed them in my cellar stairs where it's cool and fairly dry.

Here's my questions I'd like some advise on...
1. Splitting issues - I've not had very good luck in the past keeping my logs from splitting, even after applying end-grain sealer right away. All my logs always end up splitting anyway. I'm hoping since these are already split, they won't split again. But is there anything else I can do to help avoid anymore splitting?
I usually put my logs in the basement where it stays cool, but is dry. This time, I put the logs in my outside cellar stairs where it cooler but not as dry. Hoping they'll dry slower and not split. (I usually run a dehumidifier in the summer).

2. Turning Green wood - Never turned green wood before. If I'm going to end up having firewood instead of turning wood, I thought if I tried turning some of the green wood, I might at least salvage something. Is it ok to turn any while it's (this) green? If so, what should I watch for or avoid?

3. Turning ideas - I'd like to try and come up with a project idea that I can take advantage of the dramatic change in color on the outer sapwood. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks...JEB

[Bob Bergstrom]

Start roughing out bowls. It is the best time to learn about turning bowls. Green wood is more forgiving and easier to turn. Turn them about !" thick and put green sealer on them Put the roughed out bowls back on those stairs. Get a scale, start weighing them every month or so. When they stop losing weight they are good to go. Chances of cracking are far less rough out than in the log form.

[Allen Neighbors]

Ditto, what Bob said. I'd also use some anchor seal on the outside, and sticker them, so air can circulate through the inside.
When I roughout a bowl, I soak it in water for a month, changing the water every week to keep it from stinking. Then I let it drip dry for a day, then coat it with anchor seal.
I don't lose a whole lot, and I live in a really dry country. Some of them I dry slowly in my refrigerator kilns.

[Bernie Weishapl]

I agree and have started using a method that Mike Mahoney uses. I rough the bowls to 1" thick and anchorseal the whole bowl with a date that I roughed and sealed. The anchorseal dries clear so you can see the date. I stack them on the floor where it stays around 65 to 68 deg and not much air movement. I have about 25 or so bowls of walnut, some locust, some maple and cherry. They have been drying now for about 1 to 4 months. I just checked them this morning and not one of them has any cracks at all. I have been weighing them about every month and some of them have stopped losing weight. So time to start roughing and finishing what I have.

[Nathan Hawkes]

I turn mostly natural edge bowls, but for all the wood I've worked with, John, the wetter the better! Turn away, good sir. The only problem you're going to have with wet walnut will be the same with dry walnut; it stains your hands. No way around it but wearing gloves. However, if you haven't turned it before, you should know that black walnut is toxic to people. You need to wear a dust mask at the very least, or preferably a respirator mask. I'm one of the unfortunate ones that gets a rash from wet shavings on my skin. I've actually only turned a few walnut bowls since finding out one summer day when I got a rash on my arms and the back of my legs after cutting up a log with a chainsaw-I wear chaps which protected the front, but I wear shorts under them---12 plies of kevlar may as well be goose down for as hot as they are, but I won't cut without them.

[John Keeton]

John, that is some very nice walnut - not much sapwood and nice color. It will make some beautiful bowls. Congrats!!

[David E Keller]

I'm with the others on rough turning green, and then waiting patiently for the piece to dry. Wet wood is a lot of fun to turn.

As for showing the contrast, a natural edge bowl is a great way to go. The base/bottom of the bowl will be on the flat/split side of the half-log, and the top of the bowl will be at the bark side of the log and can include the bark. Besides the contrast, the big benefit of natural edge bowls is the ability to turn the piece all the way to finished form without stopping to let it dry out. It will warp a bit while drying, but it just adds to the overall look. Just make sure you turn the entire thing in one session.

Looks like you've got enough to try a few different techniques. Finished photos always appreciated.

[Steve Kubien]

I would start roughing as soon as you can but in the mean time, slap some sealer right down the middle of the the flat, cut face, along the length of the pith. It helps and may buy you enough time to finish roughing them out.

[Chris Struttman]

If you plan to get good contrast between the heart and sap wood, I would start turning those as soon as you can. I have found that the dark heart wood will start to stain the sap wood if you let it go too long. To long in my case was about a month, maybe two. After that, you end up with sap wood that looks stained and muddy.

[Baxter Smith]

Great looking wood! I know of a couple walnut trees near here out in the woods by an old cellar hole. May approach the land owner some day about cutting them. Enjoy!

[john brady]

Hello all - Thanks for the suggestions!

I did coat the ends of the logs with (Rockler) Green Wood End Sealer - but I'll coat the other bare sides if it will help to keep it from splitting.

Nathan - Thanks for the heads up on the staining/toxic. I'm one of the small minority that usually get a reaction - I turned some cocobolo pens a few months ago and broke out in a rash within an hour of just sawing the blanks to size! So I'll be sure to wear protection!

I like the idea of a natural edge bowls. I've never made any of those, but always wanted to try it - so it will be a great project! Now if my new chuck would just get here!! I've been on the waiting list at PennState for a new (Barracuda) chuck - hopefully they will arrive SOON!

I'll get to work on the Walnut as soon as I'm finished with my easter eggs. Only one more dozen to go!

Thanks again...JEB

FYI - woodturning tip - If you're like me and don't like to throw anything away - save those long shavings that come off your acrylic pen blank turnings - it works perfectly for grass in your Easter baskets! See attached.

[Stephen Massman]

For the stain on your hands from walnut and other woods (caused by tannins) use some lemon juice.


I would recommend turning natural edge bowls to get the best color variation of the sapwood vs heartwood. I attached a picture of one of my recent walnut NE bowls.

[john brady]

Stephen - THANKS for posting the pic! I was wondering what one would look like - anxious to get started now! Finally got the eggs finished, just need to stain them and I can get on the walnut.

John

[Dick Sowa]

...Just make sure you turn the entire thing in one session...

Ditto what everyone else said. The most important thing, if you want to go to finish while it is still wet, is what David said. Even in a single session, it will warp on ya. It's amazing how quickly out of round it can get in just a few minutes.

[Stephen Massman]

For reference, I applied two coats of danish oil and then a topcoat of blonde shellac.