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Thread: How do you join long runs of molding?

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
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    How do you join long runs of molding?

    I am curious what the accepted practice is for joining shorter lengths of hardwood molding to fit long runs. Suggestions?

  2. #2
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    Dec 2005
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    Fontucky, California
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    Joining for molding

    For paint grade work, I'd just use finger joints. For molding that will have a clear finish, I'd use a scarf joint, just as you would for crown molding, etc.

    Regards,

    John

  3. Use a scarf joint and make sure you glue the joint very, very well.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Koutsovitis View Post
    Use a scarf joint and make sure you glue the joint very, very well.

    Agreed, the best way to go.

  5. #5
    I scarf cut and do a biscuit joint indexing off the back side, cutting a #20 slot but inserting a #10 biscuit (due to the inside miter cut). I will further add a glued and screwed strip of 1/2" ply on the back side. Gone back to job sites 5 yrs later and joint is still tight.
    David Werkheiser

  6. #6
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    +1 on scarf. I extended some of my cleat wall system cleats this way and no failures despite many moves of fixtures.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  7. #7
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    A long scarf joint can be nearly invisible. You can make a jig for a SCMS to basically hold the miters at 20 degrees off of 90, like a large plywood sine block. I imagine the same could work on the TS with the right sled. It gives a good glue joint that can be clamped or pinned. For paint grade work we run long lengths. How short are you talking? Too many shorts in stain grade can give a pretty choppy look. Much more than one or two joints in 20' is pushing it.

    Not sure if that was clear, but basically I'm talking about cutting a 70-80 degree miter like a shipscarf.

  8. #8
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    Ok, "scarf joint" is a new term. Please explain.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Glen Butler View Post
    Ok, "scarf joint" is a new term. Please explain.
    Here's a decent description:

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scarf_joint
    Dave Falkenstein aka Daviddubya
    Cave Creek, AZ

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Glen Butler View Post
    Ok, "scarf joint" is a new term. Please explain.
    Link #1 by Google is http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scarf_joint
    Doug, the "Wood Loon"
    Acton, MA

    72, slow road cyclist, woodworking dabbler, tool junkie , and
    bonsai enthusiast.
    Now, if I could just stay focused longer than a few weeks...

  11. #11
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    ditto on the scarf joint. just made a piece to go on floor between kitchen and living room in the house my brother just flipped and except for the slight grain difference you could hardly tell it was 2 pieces. came out better than i expected if i say so myself!

  12. #12
    Biscuit and glue, clamp and sand.

    If you are on site, scarf joint with glue on a stud.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by tim weidman View Post
    ditto on the scarf joint. just made a piece to go on floor between kitchen and living room in the house my brother just flipped and except for the slight grain difference you could hardly tell it was 2 pieces. came out better than i expected if i say so myself!
    There's a term I haven't heard in a while (flipped house). I thought the bad economy killed all that action.

  14. #14
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    Oh I use that joint all the time. Didn't know it had a name. Thanks.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Quinn View Post
    How short are you talking? Too many shorts in stain grade can give a pretty choppy look. Much more than one or two joints in 20' is pushing it.
    That is about right. Getting raw material over 10' in this neck of the woods, is nearly impossible. Wasn't thinking paint grade, since a finger joint is usually used there.
    Thanks for all the input. It is nice to know the joint is almost invisible. I wouldn't have expected that.

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