Grizzly vs. Grizzly?

[Alan Mikkelsen]

I have been toying with the idea of getting a combination jointer/planer, since it would free up some needed space for an assembly area in my shop. I thought I wanted a helicical type head (Grizzly G0634), until the last two months, when I started reading about helical head problems (not necessarily Grizzly). I've read about people who replaced heads on other brands and had bad experiences with horrible finish results. I've read about cracking and breaking inserts. Now I'm wondering if I should be considering a Grizzly G0633, instead.

I work with a fair amount of figured wood, birdseye maple, curley maple, figured walnut, and cherry and qs white oak. The cherry and oak usually don't cause me much for problems. But on the maple and walnut, I usually have to plan on running it through the drum sander to clear up chip out. I originally thought that the helical type head might help, but now I'm wondering. What say you? I'm especially interested in hearing actual experiences from helical head users, and not speculation.

Stay with straight knives or go for the helical?

BTW, please don't turn this into a Grizzly vs. other machines thread. I have a lot of Grizzly machinery and have been generally satisfied. I've looked at a couple of used Mini Max machines, but I'd have to drive a minimum of 500-600 miles each way to pick one up.

[Cary Falk]

I put a Byrd head on my 8" Shop Fox Jointer. I intially was not satisfied with the cut of it. I ended up taking all of the inserts out and cleaning the head and inserts up with mineral spirits. I then retorqed all of the inserts down to spec with a torque wrench. I couldn't be happier with the results. I did break a couple of inserts during the process. I am not sure if I did it or they cracked when they were intially put on. The head came with 5 extra so no big deal. I am saving up my pennys for a 15" planer with the insert head also.

[glenn bradley]

I have a spiral in my jointer. I am planning on upgrading to a spiral in the planer. After my experience I would not consider a knifed machine but, that's me. I have had none of the problems you speak of so my opinion is based on that experience. In my research, problems are the exception although there has been a bit of buzz about Byrd's recent 'goo' under the inserts problem. That is a hard "oops" to recover from. You would have to be pretty heavy handed to crack an insert on a well deigned head. Have there been reports of the correct inserts cracking on a non defective head? There is a torque setting for a reason.

[Van Huskey]

The majority of poor results seem to come from replacement heads and MOST of them seem to get that worked out. You seem like a perfect candidate for a helical head given the wood you work with.

I would also consider the Jet 12" J/P both it and the Griz seem to have overall good reviews but it seems more here have chosen the Jet (just based on the number of threads, I could be wrong). The Jet has been selling for a little less lately and Jet is having a sale starting the 11th.

[Brian Kincaid]

15" Grizz planer with grizz spiral head. I work with red oak mostly. I have several 'test' boards that are basically crotch material with grain that goes every direction. Out of the box the grizz spiral head planed it without tearout. I did not experience the 'ridges' that others have discussed, although those seem to be prevalent with the Byrd head, not necessarily the Grizz head.

-Brian

[Shiraz Balolia]

Alan - I would definitely go with the spiral cutterhead with the inserts (G0634Z). Massive 5 H.P. motor with a machine weight of 675 lbs.

We check all of our cutterheads before installing, and also make a cut on them to make sure that we did not miss anything. I did an extensive post about this a while back and if you search, you may find it. I work mostly with figured woods like heavy curly maple (tearout city), quilted maple and curly Koa, all of which are notorious for tearouts. Both my planer and jointer have spiral cutterheads and I would NEVER go back.

[Myk Rian]

Have there been reports of the correct inserts cracking on a non defective head? There is a torque setting for a reason.

Only when I hit a nail I missed on my DW735. 55 inch/pounds for the Byrd inserts.

[Alan Mikkelsen]

Alan - I would definitely go with the spiral cutterhead with the inserts (G0634Z). Massive 5 H.P. motor with a machine weight of 675 lbs.

We check all of our cutterheads before installing, and also make a cut on them to make sure that we did not miss anything. I did an extensive post about this a while back and if you search, you may find it. I work mostly with figured woods like heavy curly maple (tearout city), quilted maple and curly Koa, all of which are notorious for tearouts. Both my planer and jointer have spiral cutterheads and I would NEVER go back.

Thank you very much. What is the availability of the G0634Z?

[Shiraz Balolia]

Thank you very much. What is the availability of the G0634Z?

Yours would be shipped from Bellingham and they are on the sea due to arrive in two weeks.

[glenn bradley]

Only when I hit a nail I missed on my DW735. 55 inch/pounds for the Byrd inserts.

Ouch! That'll do it ;-)

[Andrew Minear]

Yours would be shipped from Bellingham and they are on the sea due to arrive in two weeks.

You just gotta love Shiraz taking the time to post a response, very cool.

Andrew

[Gene Crain]

....Also a LOT less noise than a straight knife head! The only down side I found from using the spiral heads is that the shavings are a lot "lighter" and our DC bags/drums fill up much faster Rotating the inserts can be time consuming on a 20" planer head but much easier than trying to set straight knives correctly!!! You may see a small ammount of "lines" on your material but this is quickly sanded out prior to finishing.


Gene Crain
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