Shop Remodel Question of the Week #3 - Interior Sheathing

[Joe A Faulkner]

I have a 20x20 detached, unheated, cinder block garage that has been my shop for the past 16 years. The shop has evolved over this time with little or no planning. I have decided that my next, perhaps most ambitious wood working project to-date, needs to be a shop remodel. Here are my immediate priorities:
1) Heat; therefore insulation
2) Central Dust Collection
I have several questions I’d like to submit to the collective wisdom and experience of the creek. I thought rather than ask them all at once, I would try a question of the week format. I have really appreciated the feedback on questions #1 (tool covers) and #2 (framing & insulation). Now for topic #3, prefered wall surfaces.
I am leaning towards drywall. Those of you with drywall, any regrets? What about those with OSB, or plywood. If you had to do it over again which would you use and why?

[Chris Padilla]

If you don't mind "hunting" for studs to attach stuff to (i.e. you plan ahead and KNOW where all your studs are), drywall is nice, cheap, paints well (use a semi-gloss to gloss white...boring to paint...reflects light beautifully). Drywall is also easy to fix although I guess that depends on your skill level but you might get good at it in a woodshop!

[tyler mckee]

I have drywall in my garage now, and i don't really like it. I think if/when i build a shop i will use plywood or osb. Maybe even some bead board plywood to dress it up a little. I've seen a few shops done with OSB and its not for everyone but i think it actually looks pretty good.

edit: check out this guys use of OSB http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?p=1334188

[Bob Wingard]

I used Hardi-Panel cement board sheets. You still need to be careful about hitting studs, but this stuff won't burn, rot, absorb moisture, and bugs won't touch it. At about $20/sheet, it's a bit more expensive than drywall, but overall, I thought it was worth it.

AND .. it's pre-primed and takes paint beautifully.

[Paul Murphy]

I used OSB for the walls and celing of my present shop for two reasons, first it was cheap, second it was available quickly.

In the shop I had before my present shop, I cut yellow poplar off the farm, air dried it for a year, planed it, ran shiplap edging, and ran the boards vertically for siding. I used A face plywood for the celing. That was a beautiful shop, but the plywood was more expensive, and the 1500 bf of poplar was a lot of work, and took some time.

I like the wood/plywood/osb because you can screw dust collection and lighting anywhere you like. The OSB isn't very attractive, but I'm in the shop for the woodworking, and the looks don't bother me personally. I work with mostly full length solid wood, and worried that I might beat up a drywall shop. I can lean boards against the wall while processing lumber, and not worry about any damage. I don't regret the osb, and with the time saved I built some nice shop cabinets which have been very useful.

[Brian Darold]

I've had unpainted plywood, and cinderblock walls in previous shops, and by current garage/shop is drywall. Personally I like the drywall the best.

It looks very clean and professional and painted white it reflects a lot of light. Any damage is easy to repair and I've had no issues hanging things from it. You either hit the studs for the heavy stuff or use a drywall anchor for the light stuff. I've also found changing/upgrading wiring to be easy since there's no insulation in the stud cavities - although I plan to change that when I replace the exterior siding.

I can see the benefits of painted plywood for the walls, but I think I'd still go with drywall if I were building a shop.

[Chris Damm]

I've had drywall in the past and will never use it again. My current shop has 7/16 OSB painted white and has worked out great for the last 16 years. I can (and do) hang anything anywhere I choose. When I did my shop OSB was even cheaper than drywall and it takes a lot less to finish.

[Bill Wilcox]

I am in the process of setting up my garage for a shop. It is a 3 stall and will be using the third stall for the shop. On thing i didn't want for the walls was drywall. I think that with the work I will be doing and the potential for things banging up against the walls I wanted something a bit more durable. I chose 7/16 OSB for the walls. I went with this thickness because of the price at the supplier. I also insulated the walls with craft backed fiberglass. I also decided to paint the walls so I could have the area as bright as possible for the turning work I plan to do. I chose a very light "sage green" color. I went with Behr exterior primer and paint in one and am very satisfied with the coverage. One coat was used and there was no bleed through from the black printing on the OSB. I will use 1 1/4 drywall screws to fasten the OSB. My electricity is going to be run from a 100amp panel the is being installed today. All of my boxes will be run through conduit for ease of removal and changes down the road. I will have dedicated boxes for my lathe and other higher amp machines. I will be posting pic's after all is done. I have extra OSB for making soffit storage space and on the other end of the garage wil be a planting station for my wife and her gardening supplies. I also have the fortune of having a bunch of cubicle overhead cabinets that will be run on the walls to help with storage of specific items.

[Don Jarvie]

1/2 inch plywood (20 bucks - HD) and 3/8 dry wall on the ceiling. Everything painted an off-white.

Anything really heavy I try to hit the studs but it's easy to drill anywhere.

The drywall on the ceiling (15 sheets) was a cost decision - 6 per sheet compared to 11 for 1/4 lunan. The 75 dollar savings paid for 5 lights.

If you do sheetrock invest in the drill bit for hanging it. I also used my impact driver with the bit.

[Thom Sturgill]

OSB or PLY can either be painted and give a bright shop and allow you to attach almost anywhere with limitations depending on the thickness of the PLY/OSB. On the other hand, place some 2x(10" or 12") bracing flat between the studs at key locations and cover with drywall and you get the best of both worlds. This is what I plan on doing.

[Gary Radice]

I recently finished my garage/shop in drywall and I like the clean, finished look, especially since it is attached garage so it seems more part of the house.
I also like the fire resistance (and since it is attached drywall was required by code, so I really had no choice).

As others have said, painted white or off white it reflects a lot of light, which is good. The only downside so far is that as a hard finish it has a lot of echo. I hope that will dissipate as I fill the walls with stuff!

As far as not being able to drill anywhere: that is solved easily with French cleats. Or, if you go with drywall have the installers (or yourself) leave a screw/nail exposed at the top or bottom of the wall and you can always easily find the studs. Or, if you really want to drill anywhere but like the look of drywall, sheathe with OSB and then put drywall over it. More money, sure, but you get the flexibility and the fire resistance.

[Eric Gustafson]

I went with drywall. I just think it looks the best. I did a skip trowel aka, hock and trowel, so if I need to make patches or changes down the road, it is an easy texture to match.

[Von Bickley]

I have 1/2" plywood that is painted white. Works good for me.......

[Dave Clermont]

I ran into a good deal on 1 x 8 x 8 V groove pine boards and am in the process of putting them up now. So far it looks great - all I did was put poly on them.

[Darren Almeida]

T1-11 plywood on the walls and painted them white. I went with wood instead of sheetrock because I dont have to worry about swinging a board around and stuffing a hole in a wall. Plus I can easily hang stuff anywhere.

- d