Wire Burning Advice Needed

[Dave Ogren]

Six (6) weeks ago I turned a end grain Hickory bowl, 9" O.D. x 4 3/4" tall with three grooves on the outside near the top. Yesterday just before sanding I decided to wire burn the three (3) grooves. I used a wire coat hanger. I got the job done and they look great. This bowl is almost 1/2" out of round. It was hard to keep the wire in the groove while bouncing.

Can the grooves be burned when the wood is still wet and rounder ??

Would it be harder to burn because of being wet ??

Or would the heat cause the rim to crack ??

Or burn while green and soak in water ??

I searched the forum and could only find out about wire sizes. I don't have a camera so no pictures yet. The camera is on my list. Thanks for all the help, this is one great forum. Please keep up all of the great work.

Thanks again,

Dave

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Dave,

Typically when I add a groove to a bowl or HF it's during the finishing process.

I have already returned the bowl or HF to round.....I've coarse sanded it. I then use my skew to cut the grooves.

I have a piece of a guitar string tied between two pieces of wood that serve as handles. I apply the guitar string to the grooves while it's spinning and then finish sanding.

In short, the wood is dry.....the bowl is round and almost done when I do it.

[Mike Peace]

+1 for Ken's response. You need some speed to burn a ring and doing one on an out of round bowl would be too scary for me.

Personally, burning lines on a green bowl does not make a lot of sense to me. I do not think the few bowls that I finish turn green would be enhanced by a burn line before they start turning shape. If I were going to do it, I would certainly do it on the outside before I hollowed out the mass inside the bowl with the risk of flexing and warping while still on the lathe.

[pete ryalls]

I would not burn lines till the bowl was ready to finish

try a countertop sample (free-be)

cut a small V with a skew or parting tool point and then take a strip of formica sample burns super fast and a nice dark line

[Dave Ogren]

I forgot to add that I have been finish turning when the bowl is green.

Thanks,

Dave

[Leo Van Der Loo]

I forgot to add that I have been finish turning when the bowl is green.

Thanks,

Dave

Dave it is pretty well impossible to do the burning lines, after a green to finish turned bowl has dried.
Not only will the bowl warp to oval but will also go lower on the sides of the bowl.
I have burned lines on green turned bowls while they are still round and wet, doesn't work as well as on dry that's for sure, but still can be done.
I use piano wire, with the ends wrapped around short dowels, so you can hold it safely, first you need a small narrow cut in the bowl, then use high speed to get more friction, and also wrap the wire at least for 1/3 around the bowl so the wood will heat up fast, that is what works for me, have fun and take care

I have a couple of pictures of a Applewood bowl on the forum that I burned 2 lines in while it was still wet and green,

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=104791

[Allen Neighbors]

Leo nailed it. A lot of speed, and pressure with a piece of formica will work, also, if a wire won't. (Like on a bottom curve, and inside.) When finish turning a green bowl, you have to get your burn lines on it, before it dries and warps.

[Richard Coers]

I use Formica samples from the big box stores for all my line burning. It works much better than wire. You build up the friction much faster. If the thickness bothers you, file it to a knife edge before burning. You can use some compressed air on the line where you are going to burn, just before burning, to blow out some of the water. I've not done this a lot to wet turnings, but the rims are usually dry enough for this to work. No cracking for me.