Hey all
I was going to send Becker a PM on all this since he seems to know a lot about the Target products, but then figured the conversation could benefit everyone.
I tried to do this at the Target forum, but I can't get an account activated over there, so I am relying on my SMC brethren
Some history...
My finishing program lately has developed into two methods
1. BLO then Varnish. May, or may not, have dye first. People have questioned why the BLO when I am doing the oil based varnish. I realize this may seem a bit redundant, but there is a difference without the BLO
2. Shellac. May, or may not, have dye first
In general I don't like think film finishes.
An Earlex 3000 turbine sprayer was recently given to me and I started thinking about lacquer. It seems to make sense because of the dry time and other benefits. I was a bit concerned about fumes though since I don't have a real finishing room. Mr. Becker made a strong argument for the EM6000. Since I have no experience with spraying or lacquer, I figured going water based makes sense... might as well just learn once.
So...
I've read a lot on the Target site (but haven't asked anything since I can't). I think I am going to get a similar feeling from my finish work by going with an application of the Ultima Clear Base stain (supposed to provide a similar response in wood as BLO does), and then the EM6000 lacquer. Like my work now, I can have dye at first if I choose to do so.
Does anyone have any concerns about this so far? ... "Gotcha's" or caveats?
So, now the real questions...
What should my sanding schedule be between the various coats?
I have a 1mm and 2mm tip for the Earlex. It sounds like I might get best results from the 1.5mm tip.... comments?
SA5 Spray/Brush retarder - "...when our finishes are being applied with turbine HVLP spray equipment". I'm guessing I fall into this category, so I should run with that?
Is the shelf live of the Ultrseal shellac similar to regular shellac? (I realize this isn't part of the schedule I mention above)
My garage is typically in the 40 to 50% humidity range, likewise inside the house. Summer is a bit lower, but not much. Are there concerns with the EM6000 application in this range?
I've read of complications with the bleeder type guns and the EM6000, but from what I read it sounds like it is just a matter of technique. Obviously I will practice and test..... any comments for suggestions?
I've got a project that I was contracted for by a friend. I really want to get this worked out, buy some Qts for testing, etc, so I can be ready for his project (which is sort of why I've given up on asking this stuff at the Target forum). All comments and suggestions welcomed.
Thank you