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Thread: chainsaw recommendations

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Chevy Chase, Maryland
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    2,484

    chainsaw recommendations

    I got some large chunks of a front yard tree of unknown type cut down in my neighborhood. It smells like a cherry somewhat and is very pretty. When cut, it looks light like pine for a minute or so and then quickly turns to a lovely shade of amber on the newly exposed wood. Anyway, chainsawing blanks was a new experience for me this weekend. I only have a smallish echo saw that I've always just used for small yard work. It took forever to cut the bowl blanks (around 12 to 13 diameter and 5 to 6 inches thick) , so I'm thinking I need a better bigger saw for all the BIG blanks I hope to gloat about going forward. I want something reliable, safe, etc. What brand, size, chain set up (I've heard there are rip chains for example) does anyone recommend? I'd ratehr buy a good one and cry once than have frustration with loose chains, hard starts, etc. everytime I use it, so cheap is not high on the list. Thanks!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Harvey, Michigan
    Posts
    20,805
    First thing I recommend is a metal detector!

    I spent a lot of time researching a replacement for my 14" McCullough chainsaw and finally decided on the Husky 357 XP. It is a lot of saw but I did not want something that was underpowered or something that was going to be difficult to start or maintain. This saw fit my needs but your needs may be different.

    Basically - stick with the main brands of Stihl and Husky and you'll be fine.
    Steve

    “You never know what you got til it's gone!”
    Please don’t let that happen!
    Become a financial Contributor today!

  3. #3
    I love my husky's 340 & 281

  4. #4
    Last year I bought a Husky 353 and its a breast of a saw. Just make sure that if you are interested in a Huskavarna you dont end up with thier light duty line. They make an entry level, middle and the XP line. The only real difference (from the dealer's mouth) in the middle and the XP lines are faster RPM and price. I was going to buy the XP version of mine but the dealer talked me out of spending an additional $100.

    Having used my 353 enough to wear off the words on the bar, I can tell you that it is plenty of saw and fairly decent on weight.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    West Virginia
    Posts
    1,411
    Stihl 880


    If you dont intend on using all that often, a Poulan will be probably the cheapest. 18 inch bar will do alot of work, just think ahead on the size of logs you will work with and add a few inches for good measure.

    If you want a beefier saw, as suggested the Husky or Stihl will be the ticket. I use a Stihl MS290 with a 18 inch bar several times a week, well worth the $$$

    Just remember to run it out of fuel if you are going to let it sit and dont mix up much fuel. The crap they have in our fuel at the pumps is JUNK when it comes to shelf life.

  6. #6
    My Stihl MS390 is a lot of saw. My ONLY regret is that I didn't get a bigger bar (I've got an 18" but wish I had 20" or 24").

    As has been said, stick with Stihl or Husky and you will be hard pressed to go wrong.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Wimberley, Texas
    Posts
    2,828
    The usual list is Huskvarna(sp?), Stihl, Jonssered, and Echo, maybe one or two more. Check the weights of the saws you consider. I bought a smaller saw than I really wanted (Echo) knowing that my back would not be up to using the next heavier model. In retrospect my decision was correct and the 18" bar does everything (almost) that I need it to.
    Richard in Wimberley

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Schlumpf View Post

    Basically - stick with the main brands of Stihl and Husky and you'll be fine.
    And get all the saw you can afford!

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    torrance, Ca
    Posts
    2,072
    I have a Stihl ms310 with a 24" bar, its a great chainsaw and will serve you well. If you can spare the money this guy will be with you forever.

  10. #10
    Sean,

    I had the fortune of having a Dad that worked in the logging industry for 30 years. He started out as a short wood logger and eventually became a producer. He has had many saws through the years and they have been either a Husky or a Stihl. The newer Huskys sold at the big box stores are not a good as they used to be, but are better than most. Stihl has my vote. I have a 028AV with a 20" bar and it cuts blanks very well when the blade is sharp. However Stihl will cost you more, but should outlast the other brands. My .02

    Good luck with the wood.

    -Donald-

  11. #11
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Washington's Coast
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    1,767
    I love my Stihl Farm Boss with a 24" bar. I use a skip tooth chain that rips just fine-you just have to clear the shavings once in a while. Rip chains are expensive and don't work that well for cross cutting.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Eau claire, Wisconsin
    Posts
    3,084

    Why the big bar?

    I see a lot of guys saying that they need a bigger bar, I am not sure why. If you are out cutting down 30"+ trees I can see a bigger saw for power and the bigger bar is a plus. That being said all I used for 20 years was a Stihl 025 or 026 to cut everything. With a 16" bar I cut down trees that were over 30" at the base (16x2=32") I never had any wants except for more power to cut faster. I did finally get a MS 290 with an 18" bar and if cutting over 36" dia is not big enough for most every turner out there then I still am confused. How many out there turn over 20" blanks? Not many at all, why does a guy who is just getting into turning who only owns a 16" swing lathe need a $500 24" bar saw? During the winter in the shop I use a 16" electric saw that will cut everything I need it to.

    So it comes down to what you plan to turn, if you want a heavy saw, or you just want to have a bigger saw than your buddy. The first a formost thing is to know how to use the saw to get the most out of it. Being able to sharpen a chain correctly is a big part of the equation. Then do not force the saw into the wood let it do the cutting and they work very well.

    All that being said buy a saw you can afford and keep the chain sharp and don't cut sand and gravel with it. Stihl is my favorite and they have some with an easy start system that is just awesome, the best chain adjustment system and nice oil and gas mix caps. My buddy has a Husky and has had to rebuild it 3 times over 10 years. I tried to get him to get a Stihl, but he is stubborn. The next choice for me would be a Jonsered brand, as they are tough as nails and great quality.

    Lots to take in but buy the best saw that you think you will ever use.

    Jeff
    To turn or not to turn that is the question: ........Of course the answer is...........TURN ,TURN,TURN!!!!
    Anyone "Fool" can know, The important thing is to Understand................Albert Einstein
    To follow blindly, is to never become a leader............................................ .....Unknown

  13. buy quality, buy once

    I would encourage you to stay away from Poulan. I have a Poulan Pro model, and the manual plainly states, not for heavy or everyday use. They are homeowner models only for occasional use,

    I also own a Husqvanra 359, which gets into the pro lineup of saws. It is a great saw. Lots of torque, power and have had not one problem of any sort in the 8 years or so that I've used it. I have cut cords upon cords of oak and other wood, and it has run flawlessly.

    You cannot go wrong with either a Husqvarna or a Stihl as long as you stay in the upper pro line each one carries. Service and parts availability is a very important issue. Buy from a dealer, not a box store.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Chevy Chase, Maryland
    Posts
    2,484
    Thank you to everyone. As usual, terrific thoughtful advice from the crew of the USS Vortex! I'm off to see my local saw dealer this weekend.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    West Virginia
    Posts
    1,411
    Get a price, then post it. If you are in Montgomery County then I would suspect they will take an arm and a leg It might worth a small drive to save a few hundred!

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