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Thread: Does this make sense?

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Does this make sense?

    Having gotten great feedback from my previous questions, I've done a bunch of research on aniline dyes. Based on what I've learned here's what I'm thinking of doing (of course I'll test first but I just need a sanity check). I have completed all the pieces for 7 dining chairs in cherry. The wood varies between light figure and no figure. I want to bring out the chattoyance and grain while giving the wood a somewhat darker finished look without obscuring the natural beauty of the wood. So here's what I'm thinking:
    1. All the pieces are already hand sanded to 220.
    2. Apply water based analine dye (concentration/colour mix to be determined by experimenting)
    3. Sand lightly with 220 to leave dye only in the deeper grain (enhancing the grain)
    4. Apply dye again and let dry.
    5. Pad 2 coats of shellac, steel wool between coats. (I'm thinking of tinting the shellac by mixing a bit of dye in. Is this advisable??)
    6. Spray 2 coats of pre-cat lacquer.

    Am I nuts? Does this work? As you can tell I'm on a steep learning curve here. In my previous projects I did not take the care in finishing that the pieces deserved.

    Your advice is greatly appreciated.

    Hans Braul
    "There is a crack in everything - that's how the light gets in"

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
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    What type of wood are you using?? I would do the initial sanding to no higher than 180. I also wouldn't use steel wool to apply the shellac. There shouldn't be any need to use shellac prior to lacquer if you are using a water or alcohol based dye. If you tint the shellac, you will be obscuring the grain as the color would sit on top of the wood rather than in the wood. More information about what you hope for in the end result would be helpful. Honestly, seems like a lot of work. But then I like to make finishing as simple as possible.

  3. #3
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    Clarification

    Quote Originally Posted by Casey Gooding View Post
    What type of wood are you using?? I would do the initial sanding to no higher than 180. I also wouldn't use steel wool to apply the shellac. There shouldn't be any need to use shellac prior to lacquer if you are using a water or alcohol based dye. If you tint the shellac, you will be obscuring the grain as the color would sit on top of the wood rather than in the wood. More information about what you hope for in the end result would be helpful. Honestly, seems like a lot of work. But then I like to make finishing as simple as possible.
    Thanks Casey. The wood is cherry. Some prominent pieces have moderate figure, and some, which I used in legs and rails, have little or none. In the end I'm hoping that the full beauty of the wood comes through, with no indication that it has been stained. I was thinking the shellac would add some warmth but if this is done by the dye then perhaps there's no need to shellac prior to lacquer.

    I appreciate your suggestions.

    Regards
    Hans Braul
    "There is a crack in everything - that's how the light gets in"

  4. #4
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    Sep 2007
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    Tallahassee, FL
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    Ah, cherry. My favorite way to finish cherry is pretty simple. Coat with Boiled Linseed Oil, let sit for 15-20 minutes the wipe off the excess. Next, sit it out in the sun for a few days. This will darken it up nicely and help bring out any figure in the grain. Topcoat can either be shellac then lacquer or homemade oil/varnish blend (1/3 varnish, 1/3 BLO, 1/3 mineral spirits). Multiple coats will be needed with the blend. Wipe on, then wipe off excess after a few minutes.
    BTW, if you do it this way, I would sand to 220, maybe higher if you want.
    Hopefully this will give you the results you want in an easier manner.
    I hope this helps!!!
    Last edited by Casey Gooding; 03-21-2010 at 4:14 PM.

  5. #5
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    May 2006
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    Kincardine, Ontario
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    Thanks again Casey,
    What you describe is pretty much what I've done in a number of cherry projects I've done in the past. The reasons I'm considering a change on this one are:
    1. The test piece I did looked blotchy instead of shimmering - I didn't feel I was taking full advantage of the natural swirl of the grain
    2. I'm looking for a darker finish to start, hopefully to by enhanced by age and exposure to light.

    Regards
    Hans
    "There is a crack in everything - that's how the light gets in"

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Tallahassee, FL
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    722
    Some of the blotching could be figure in the wood. Some not. Honestly, hand planing will give you the finest, most shimmering surface possible. That is a slippery slope, however (and I would know). Time spent in the sun will certainly darken the wood and cure some of the blotching.
    Best of luck with it,

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