I got a "free" jointer....

[Dave Haughs]

Dad's been storing this in his barn since the locking mechanism broke several years ago. I decided I could use a jointer so I asked what he wanted for it. Long story short it's in my garage now but it needs some serious TLC.

I've got it all the way apart, and really it doesn't need much. Everything still moves well. Blades are shot. Needs the block for locking the in feed side in place and the surfaces need to be cleaned up. I think I am going to take the infeed and outfeed tables and the vertical guide to a machine shop and have the surfaces milled a bit so I can be sure they are flat. The other parts look great.

Just wanted to post some before pictures and hopefully in a couple weeks I'll have some after shots.

[Chuck Wintle]

Dad's been storing this in his barn since the locking mechanism broke several years ago. I decided I could use a jointer so I asked what he wanted for it. Long story short it's in my garage now but it needs some serious TLC.

I've got it all the way apart, and really it doesn't need much. Everything still moves well. Blades are shot. Needs the block for locking the in feed side in place and the surfaces need to be cleaned up. I think I am going to take the infeed and outfeed tables and the vertical guide to a machine shop and have the surfaces milled a bit so I can be sure they are flat. The other parts look great.

Just wanted to post some before pictures and hopefully in a couple weeks I'll have some after shots.

is the locking mechanism repairable?

[Dave Haughs]

is the locking mechanism repairable?

Yes from what I can tell Delta hasn't changed the design and the parts are available, otherwise I'll have to make one.

[Van Huskey]

Nothing like "free"! Looking forward to updates.

[Chuck Isaacson]

I would see what you could do with the table first before you take them to get milled. Clean them up the best you can and see how bad they really are. Just my $.02.

[Myk Rian]

Not sure if this is the proper way, but you might take the entire machine to get it milled with the tables installed. That would insure the tables are co-planar.

[tyler mckee]

Hard to tell from the pictures but if the machine doesnt have really bad pitting, and the tables are flat i would try cleaning up the rust first, you would be suprised at how well your old cast iron will clean up. My tablesaw, 6" jointer and bandsaw all had some pretty good rust on them and i got them looking near new, only the table saw had some deep pitting i couldn't get out.

[Dave Cav]

I wouldn't bother with grinding the tables or fence, either. Unless the shop really knows what they are doing they could make it worse, not better. Some WD40, Scotchbrite pads, steel wool and a single edge razor blade should clean it right up. You might also try ereplacementparts.com for the parts. I have had great luck with them.

[glenn bradley]

I just tried the Evaporust product that many have mentioned here. I got it at HF with a 20% off coupon for $16 a gallon. I pour a bit in a plastic cup and dropped in some adjustable feet that looked like they were ready for the trash. An hour later I rinsed them off and used them.

[Dave Haughs]

Thanks. Good ideas.

I did take some (the name is spacing me right now, stuff I use on my tablesaw) and did some wet sanding to the back piece and it looks pretty good.

You make good points about the machine shop, that was my fear sanding it myself but being cast even taking the rotex to it probably won't take away enough material to change the alignment. I'll mess with it tomorrow night some more and see where I get, not really sure how bad the pitting is as I can't see it through the rust and corrosion, but even if it doesn't look new as long as it's flat and smooth that's all that matters I suppose.

[tyler mckee]

I've had good luck with ospho which is usually used as a rust inhibiting coating. I've just applied it, scrubbed with steel wool, cleaned, then scrubbed with steel wool and a scotchbrite pad and wd40.

I'm going to buy the evapo-rust product for my next project though, sounds like a perfect product

[Michael O'Sullivan]

Thanks. Good ideas.

I did take some (the name is spacing me right now, stuff I use on my tablesaw) and did some wet sanding to the back piece and it looks pretty good.

You make good points about the machine shop, that was my fear sanding it myself but being cast even taking the rotex to it probably won't take away enough material to change the alignment. I'll mess with it tomorrow night some more and see where I get, not really sure how bad the pitting is as I can't see it through the rust and corrosion, but even if it doesn't look new as long as it's flat and smooth that's all that matters I suppose.

I wouldn't even worry too much about it's being smooth as long as you get it flat. By that I mean all the bumps have to be gone and the tables level, but any little pits and nicks are probably not a big deal.

I have that same jointer (assuming it is a JT360) and new it was $300. It has served me well but has a lot of limitatoins (particularly the very short infeed and outfeed tables and poor dust collection -- it clogs easily and is a pain to unclog). I would not put a lot of $$$ into refurbishing one.

[Don Jarvie]

Sandpaper works good also and a wire wheel in your drill.

If you are not going to paint it, get the gray scotch brite pads and WD40 and elbow grease.

unless the machine was exposed to rain or salt air the tops aren't going to be pitted or corroded enough to wear the top away enough for them not to be dead flat.

Have fun