Warped Phenolic Router Table Top

[John Carlo]

After years of use my phenolic router table top has developed quite a bit of sag in the center both front to back and side to side. The Rout R Lift will just not sit flat and flush with the top anymore no matter how it is adjusted. I have a heavy 3 3/4 Hp 220V router mounted in it. I tried shimming it in the center of each side between the top and the square tubed aluminum stand and tightening down the corners to pull the warp out to no avail. Is there a cast iron top out there that will accommodate the JessEm/Powermatic Rout R Lift?

[Nathan Callender]

Are there any support beams on the stand between the outer supports? If not you could try adding a few.

[John Carlo]

You have me thinking Nathan. I could drill and countersink for some bolts through the top into some square steel tubing and try to pull the warp out. It would have to be some strong stuff. Come to think of it, I found a piece of 1" steel bar stock about 4 four foot long laying in the yard near the road last year. Hmmmm? Thanks.

[Rich Johnson]

I’m not an expert but I have read many things about the weight of a 3+ HP motor and its toll on router tables as well router plate's made out of many materials. Over the years.... not of use but simply sitting there....the force of gravity has its effect on any material....IMOA I think a table as well as the plate made out of metal would be ideal. As well as the table being made of metal as well...i.e. aluminum or cast-iron.

[Vince Shriver]

John, I'm just curious, who makes a 220v, 3-3/4 router?

[John Harden]

John, here's my thoughts, which are worth what you paid for them.....

I bought a Jess-Em phenolic top from Rockler and it was bowed. Sent it back and the next one was very flat. I really like it, so I'm happy!!!

Having said that, my sliding table saw has a clever adjustment mechanism to help remove any bow or dip from the cast iron top.

Essentially, there is a very thick piece of steel, "angle iron" that spans the width of the table, side to side.

It has a threaded hole, a bolt and a couple of nuts on it. You simply raise or lower it (in my case raise) to help remove dips. Just go VERY slow as cast iron is soft, but not cookie dough soft. When I say slow, I mean 1/32 of an inch per day or less.

High end machinery that uses large cast iron tables will often have one or more of these to aid in adjustments over the life (decades) of the tool.

Your idea seems to be along the same lines.

You seem to know that you're doing, so I won't bore you with my thoughts as to the details.

Do me a favor though and let us know how it turns out.

Regards,

John

[John Carlo]

Vince,
Bosch used to offer the 1611 plunge router in both 110V rated 3 1/2 HP and the 220V rated at 3 3/4 HP.

[glenn bradley]

Phenolic is a bit flexible. I built a set of support ribs under a 3/4" melamine top that sagged and was able to flatten it out very well. It has since been replaced but, the manufacturer's support design was lacking and it sounds like yours is as well. I would consider giving some shop made support a shot before spending a couple hundred bucks. Shimming the poor support didn't work so try adding better support(?). Unless you want a new top; in that case let me say "that old top has got to go! It will never be right. Get out there and start shopping!" ;-)

[Myk Rian]

Glue a 3/4" MDF sub-table under it. Convex to convex will cancel out the flex in it. )(

[Byron Trantham]

John,
I made mine from two thicknesses of MDF, Formica and Oak (trim). The table supports a Woodpecker's PRL, a PC 3 1/2 HP router and an Incra Twin Linear fence system. It's been in use 10-15 years with no sagging problems. You could probably build the thing for under $75.

[Chip Lindley]

A shame to waste a perfectly good phenolic RT!

Not sure how your phenolic top is affixed to it's stand, but if a frame can be built beneath it of 1-1/2" steel angle (minimum). I would make the interior bracing (like the # sign) to surround the lift opening. (Overkill maybe, but why not!?!) Install fine-threaded inserts in the table underside to fasten the angle frame with bolts. The table will be pulled flat to meet the framework, and any inconsistencies can be shimmed to perfection. If the frame is constructed flat, the tabletop will stay flat also!

The ultimate would be to have the welded frame blanchard-ground to perfect flatness!!

[John Coloccia]

After years of use my phenolic router table top has developed quite a bit of sag in the center both front to back and side to side. The Rout R Lift will just not sit flat and flush with the top anymore no matter how it is adjusted. I have a heavy 3 3/4 Hp 220V router mounted in it. I tried shimming it in the center of each side between the top and the square tubed aluminum stand and tightening down the corners to pull the warp out to no avail. Is there a cast iron top out there that will accommodate the JessEm/Powermatic Rout R Lift?

How thick is the table? I'm just curious as I'm considering a phenolic table. The ones I've seen seem pretty dawg gone stiff.

[Grant Wilkinson]

John

I have the Jessem table, too, and it sagged after about a year, some years ago. I contacted Jessem and they told me that they had come up with a brace kit to fix it. They sent me the kit and I installed it. It consisted of a couple of beams and levellers on them. I tried to take out the sag with the levellers, but I couldn't make it work. Jessem told me to send the top back and they replaced it. Even using the braces from the start with the new one, it started to sag. I ended up making a better stand for it to support the top completely. Now it's fine. I wouldn't go for another phenolic on a bet.