Will a radial arm saw rip?

[mike holden]

I am in need of a new tablesaw. Watching Craigslist, I see that I can get a radial arm saw in good condition for a third of what a tablesaw runs.
I know the radial excels in crosscutting, but can it rip boards? If so, what is the limiting factor?
Seriously, I dont know these things and would like to be enlightened.
Thanks,
Mike

[jerry nazard]

Mike,

The answer is yes and no. The RAS will rip but it is awkward and does not rate very high on my "safe to do" list. I used to use a set-up with a 30' fence and RAS to straighten the convex edge of boards before taking them to the jointer. With a purpose built table-fence-holdown system the RAS can do stuff like that quite well. For anything else, I would use a tablesaw. So really, my answer is no.

Best to you!

-Jerry

[Rod Sheridan]

Yes they can rip, I've used one for that, however I don't recommend it due to the poor blade guarding and enhanced risk of a kick back compared to a table saw.

They can even be dangerous when cross cutting as they can self feed if a negative hook angle blade isn't used.

Many people own one, and are happy with it, just evaluate the safety aspects before making your decision.

Regards, Rod.

[jerry nazard]

Mike,

I'll add one more thing after reading Rod's post. The RAS will self-feed and the kick back can be DISASTROUS. I am at the moment nursing my left thumb which was broken, stripped of the nail, run through at the joint by a large splinter, and relived of a bit of flesh by a RAS kickback. This is my first power tool accident in over 45 years of woodworking. Talk about hurt....

-Jerry

[Joe Scharle]

My framers ripped miles of T1-11 and plywood on a RAS, back in the day. They also never used a miter gage, and a fence was a strip of ply clamped at the back of the jobsite tablesaw. They would also cut an arched doorway by standing on the cord of a circular saw and make a radiused cut.
I'd suggest that a good TS is a lot safer, though.

[Brian Smith3]

Yeah you can rip on a RAS. The limiting factor is the width of the cut is limited by the amount of travel on the arm.

I started woodworking on a RAS and used it for ripping from time to time. You have to make sure that the stock is held down to the table well and you need to use push sticks to get the stock past the motor. To me ripping on a RAS is dodgy but that may be a result of me not doing it much, so I'm interested to see what some of the more experienced guys say.

As far as the RAS as a replacement for a TS? Well personally I very much dislike the RAS so I would say no to that, but the real answer is that it depends on what you want to do, and how much you are willing to learn how to set the RAS up. Also remember that there are a lot of moving/sliding parts on a RAS and each of these is a potential for inaccuracy if you don't maintain them well. Hope that helped.

[Frank Drew]

They would also cut an arched doorway by standing on the cord of a circular saw and make a radiused cut.

I've never heard of that one!

[Scott Donley]

I did so for years on mine before I started reading how bad it was I will say I have a TS nowdays and it is a whole lot faster. Never had a problem, but what did I know

[Paul Steiner]

The answer is you need both machines and you need to learn safety for both. Which one to get first, I dunno depends on what projects you want to build. I can't pick a favorite. If you need to rip cut I would say get a tablesaw first and keep surfing CL to get a good deal on a RAS.

[Austin Grote]

The answer is you need both machines and you need to learn safety for both. Which one to get first, I dunno depends on what projects you want to build. I can't pick a favorite. If you need to rip cut I would say get a tablesaw first and keep surfing CL to get a good deal on a RAS.

I disagree that you need a Radial Arm Saw...you can use a miter saw for crosscuts, or a crosscut sled on the table saw, or even a circular saw.

[Harlan Coverdale]

I disagree that you need a Radial Arm Saw...you can use a miter saw for crosscuts, or a crosscut sled on the table saw, or even a circular saw.

I agree with your disagreement. I used a RAS quite a bit in high school woodshop, but I've gotten along just fine without one for something like 35 years. I can't think of any RAS operations that can't be done more safely and easily with another tool.

[eugene thomas]

i use my ras just to rough cut boards. not worth dulling good blades on mitter saw for wrough cuts/

[Chip Lindley]

Back in the 60s and 70s, Sears touted the RAS as *the* jack of all trades! It was advertised as being able to do Everything! Many bought into this. But I could see a serious need for a TS also. Each machine performs best doing what it does best! Besides, most *hobby* RASs are only about 3/4 hp. Not nearly enough butt to rip much except 3/4" pine or ply.

Although rips can certainly be done on a RAS, they are messy and can be dangerous. Unlike crosscutting, where the blade either climbcuts or is pushed into the stock while held against the fence, ripping must be done with the blade rotating directly toward the user. The blade guard must be tilted so its rear just clears the stock being ripped, preventing stock being lifted off the table. While this adds safety, the front edge of the blade facing the operator is exposed, and LOTS of sawdust is thrown directly into his face! Ripping on a RAS is a nasty operation!

Ripping is what table saws were designed for. They do it best! Crosscutting long stock on a TS is as awkward as ripping is on a RAS. Many forego the RAS in favor of sliding miter saws, but those often lack rock-solid stability to deliver perfect crosscuts or miters. I Love My RAS's!

[Peter Quinn]

I agree with your disagreement. I used a RAS quite a bit in high school woodshop, but I've gotten along just fine without one for something like 35 years. I can't think of any RAS operations that can't be done more safely and easily with another tool.

I disagree with your agreement of his disagreement! I've been using a RAS for nearly thirty years. Started young. I sure would not rip with it. Almost anything else would be a better option in my mind. But for cross cutting rough stock? With a good RAS (not some cheap steel and aluminum POS side of the road junk) with the correct blade (strong negative hook, -10 to 15 degrees for instance) its safe and quick way to shorten boards, assuming the operator can remember not to place their hands in the blades path. What would be safer? Not a SCMS. They HATE rough lumber and kick like mules. Please don't tell me a skill saw. They don't like rough hardwood stock much more and are very prone to kick back. They like soft framing lumber maybe, but not so much 10/4 WO. Plus many a dufyss will forget that the blade sticks through the bottom of the board and reach under at some point to find pain waiting!

Honestly short of a good hand saw I can't think of a safer option? Problem is many bad RAS's have been made, and a good RAS may cost more than a TS by far. They sure do new. Price an Original saw or Delta, and price a Powermatic 5HP cabinet saw. Ouch.

[Jeff Miller]

I have done a lot of ripping on one and if you read the manual or a RAS book to show you how, it works quite nicely.


There are some on these forums that have never used one and will tell you it's not safe.


The worst that can happen is it will attack you while you are sleeping and cut your head off....................





JEFF