Black Walnut Grain Filler

[Ernie Kuhn]

Have black walnut I've resawn for drawer fronts for router table in the making. Need to find out what to use for grain filler????
Help.
Thanking you all, in advance,
Ernie

[Jim Becker]

In my experience, none is needed. Pop the grain with BLO, seal with shellac and then use the top coat of your choice. There really shouldn't be any grain issue at that point based on all the black walnut I've used in the past few years.

[Betsy Yocum]

I'm not as experienced as Jim - but I've used a lot of black walnut and have never used grain filler. Never saw the need for it.

Betsy

[Don Henthorn Smithville, TX]

If you really want to make it smooth with little effort, I like to wet sand with a 50-50 mix of poly and mineral spirits using 320 sand paper. The slurry will fill the pores and by wiping lightly afterwards and then sanding after it is dry it will be ready for your finish coats.

[Ted Shrader]

Ernie -

I have done the same ting as Don, but with just BLO (no poly in the mix). Seems to give a pretty good finish. Have also use ML Campbell's paste wood filler. Stain, then do the paste wood filler, the finsih. The paste wood filler is a lot more of a workout than wet sanding.

Was taught by F-I-L, a shop instructor, that walnut was an open grained wood and needed filler. You will notice the difference if it is not filled. Whether that difference matters is personal preference.

Regards,
Ted

[Ernie Kuhn]

Thank you all. Really appreciate your experience. Jim and Betsy, it's not a LARGE open grain pattern like oak but, there appear to be some scattered indications of slightly open grain. Don and2 Ted, don't know why the thought of wet sanding eluded me, I have done it on other woods. Since this is not a $1,500 piece of furniture I might ruin but rather a router table as a workshop cabinet piece, I am exploring different facets of finishing and the veneering process. So far, I am having a good time with the entire process and thanks to you all, now have a couple of ways to try finishing black walnut.
I knew I could count on fellow "creekers".

I will post pictures in about two weeks or so, when the able is finished.

Thank you again,

Ernie

[Carole Valentine]

Ernie, some of the Walnut I have used has really open grain. If I want a really smooth finish, I use Constantines Walnut Paste Grain Filler. I have wondered about that new clear grain filler I read about. Can't remember who makes it though.

[Jim Becker]

When I think about this topic, I actually have to say that I personally prefer a little hint of the grain showing in the finshed piece...it's made of wood and that's an attribute of wood! True, it's probably not appropriate for a piano or some very formal furniture styles, but it's not a horrible thing, either. I would try the slurry method first (BLO would be my choice there rather than varnish...and I almost never use the evil poly on anything besides!) to fill the grain on a table top since thats the best way to both pop the figure and fill the pores with material that is "exactly" the same color as the rest of the wood. My second method choice would be to use the shellac step after the oil cures to fill by applying a #2 cut and then sanding it back carefully; repeating as necessary to get things filled. My third method choice would be to use a clear paste wood filler, either made for the purpose.

[Charlie Plesums]

I have done Walnut both with and without filler.

If you want the high gloss "grand piano" finish, then you need filler. I have tried several, and don't have a favorite, but be sure to use a dark filler - some are poor at accepting stain, and none can be dyed.

Most of the time I simply brush on a lacquer sanding sealer, which is very quick and easy, sand, then spray lacquer. It reduces the open grain but doesn't totally hide the grain of the wood. Fine for a satin or semi-gloss finish, and shows off the natural wood better.