Need help making a sale

[Betsy Yocum]

I've been asked to make a jewelry box for a friend's wife. Not a tall order until he said what he'd like. Told him I'd try but no promises. So here's what he wants:

1) Must be square about 5-6"
2) Must be tall - about 12-15"
3) Must have a base with hopefully feet (false would be ok)
4) Must have a top with a decorative edge (not hard with a router bit)
and now for the drum rolll please..............
5) Must have 8-9 "drawers" that pivot from side to side.

He's essentially looking for a lot of jewlry space but not use up to much dresser top space.

Now in theory I know that the "drawers" or trays would have to have a rod to run through each one - with the rod being anchored in the base and the top. I figure that would be easy enough by adding a small block in the back of each drawer that the rod would run through.

Here's the question - how would you keep each drawer from dragging on the one above and/or below it and wouldn't I have to have some type of back to hide the rod. In addition, if you have a rod in the back - what would support the front?????

I'm not sure I've ever seen a box like this - but I'm sure someone here probably has.

I'd certainly appreciate the help. This would be a good customer to make happy as I'm sure he'd send other business my way. So any help you all can provide would be appreciated.

Thanks - Betsy

[Brian Hale]

I'd think some small plastic washers between each drawer would keep them seperated or perhaps some of those crafts beads. Maybe a tiny magnet to hold each drawer closed would be helpful also...

Brian

[Steve Cox]

The ones I have seen like this have a rod in the front. Let's say the rod is on the left side of the box. The drawers then pivot from the right and the front. Washers between the drawers will help seperate them but what will really keep the drawers from dragging on each other will be the tightness of the fit between the holes and the rod. I haven't built one yet but I hope this helps some.

[Jamie Buxton]

If you want to make pivoted trays, go for it. It could be very cool. However, conventional rectangular drawers would probably pack more storage space in the same volume. Conventional drawers would also mean there's less technology risk for you.

In the sketch below, notice all the wasted space in the rear corner behind the pivoting tray. A conventional rectangular drawer would make use of that space.

[Steve Cox]

I'm trying to upload a picture but I'm having trouble. I have never successfully done this. Any help?

On the design, the box should be constructed of one side, the back and a top and bottom. The pivot goes from top to bottom just inside the side. The trays then pivot out the opposite side and around to the front. That way the only space that is lost is the space for the pivot itself. I will try to upload a picture once I figure out how to.

[Harry Rigg]

I was looking at the drawing Jamie made in response to your question and showed it to my wife along with your design parameters, and we're a little confused. The pivoting drawers don't save space on top of the dresser because you've got to leave the same amount open in the front anyway. As others have mentioned, you need either a case or a lid on each drawer to keep out the dust and the ocassional "inquiring" paws and/or fingers. A case is also the best way to support the pivoting rod. This time of year you have to consider the possibility of it being a present, but I'd also wonder if your friend's wife was aware of some of the design features. Perhaps she said she'd like a new jewelry box for Christmas and let it go at that. My wife said she would rather have the storage space in the drawer than the cool-looking pivots. Pivoting drawers sounds more like a "guy" feature to me, too.

Harry

[Norman Hitt]

Betsy, another design, somewhat similar to Steve Cox's post, would be to make the unit with only a base, Back, and a top with a steel pivot rod at each rear corner, and have the drawers alternately pivot from opposite sides so that if more than one drawer was opened at a time it would still be balanced, and the drawers/pivoting trays could still be square, (square minus the thickness of the back, and a Notch at the back corner for the opposite pivot rod. The holes in the drawers for the pivot rod MUST be snug but just loose enough to swing easily. A small magnet on each drawer would keep them closed. You can get slick, hard plastic shim washers at ACE hardware in their bolt section to use as spacers, and also use small brass tubing sections that will fit over the pivot rod to allow space for the every other tray method. If the trays are fitted Closely together, there should be no dust problem.

Hope this makes sense.

Cheers and Saw Safe Norm

[Michael Stafford]

Betsy, as others have said the design you describe usually only has a side and a back joined at the corner and a top and a bottom. I have used little plastic washers and I have counterbored for little stainless washers at the pivot points, brass will also work depending on the wood used. Don't use plain steel, can rust and discolor wood.

My next and most important concern is does your customer know how small the drawers are that she is asking you to make? Will they accommodate the items she wishes to put in them?

5-6 inches is very small. If the drawers are made from 3/8" wood the interior shrinks to 4 1/4- 5 1/4". You could find it difficult to put some jewelry and watches in that space. With the number of drawers you mentioned there will also be little depth since a drawer bottom and any liinings also have thickness.

I find that when working with customers they don't always have the best understanding of space and although I try to give them what they want I make sure they understand what they are getting. Have your customer show you some of the jewelry and watches she wishes to store and see if it will fit in cardboard mockups of the drawers.

Just some food for thought...

[Michael Stafford]

Actually the box can be made with a top, bottom and a back only. I actually made something similar not that tall though.

The top and bottom are firmly attached to the back. The support rod/s can be at one corner or both at the back. The drawers pivot from the back to the side opening fully outside the box. If you choose to have them open alternately from each side then you have to have wooden spacers in place to accommodate the drawer that is not attched to the pivot on that side.

[Steve Jenkins]

Betsy I'll be watching how this goes. I have to make a pair of three drawer night stands that work essentially the same way.

[Michael Stafford]

Betsy, one of Doug Stowe's boxmaking books also has a pivoting drawer design in it. Not at all like the one you describe but could give some ideas as to how he solved the problem. I don't have the book but I recall the box when I was thumbing through it at Woodcraft store recently.

[Ken Leshner]

Betsy, how about finding a chunk of wood with nice color and figure. Form it into a 6x6x12" block using a bandsaw, then slice it into sections. Hollow out each section with a bowl & tray router bit to form "drawers", put them back in order, and attach them using the methods above.

[Alan Turner]

Betsy,
Here is an ideal along the lines your customer suggested, but might allow more drawer and necklace space.
Use the pivoting drawers, shped like Jamie noted above, but make two banks of them, One would pivot from the right, and one from the left. That would leave a triagular sape void at the back, center. This might be a place for necklace storage.

I have always ingtended to make a jewlery box or two, and lord knows I have wonderful shorts of exotics I have saved for years, but this is an area in which I lack any experience.

For feet, if you want, Joel in NY has Brusso brass feet for this application.

As to drawer side thickness. I am pretty sure that 1/4" will be plenty stong, and 3/16", carefully joined, might work also.

Have fun as it sounds like a wonderful commission. I hope you charge enough.
Alan

BTW, I have the box book mentioned, and I think it is a weak offering. Some of it is a bit production, and not very exciting, in its orientation.

[Betsy Yocum]

Thanks for all the ideas guys. I'm thinking my friends wife has more jewlery than this type of box will hold. But he's pretty set on this idea. I've been putzing around with some of the ideas - will probably post a few pictures this week of what I've come up with.

I do think each level needs to have 1/2 trays with each swinging the opposite direction. This is testing my design skills for sure.

Big Mike - I found Doug Stowe's book!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! That's going to help.

I'll let you all know how I come out. Back to the shop and the pine parts!

Betsy

[Carl Eyman]

Betsy, I'd consider making the base out of something heavy - Steel? Cover it with wood , of course. Balance then would not be a problem. Then the vertical post could be, for instance, a 1/2" vertical rod firmly fastened to the steel base. On said rod you could mount 8 or nine brass bushings. These are available from your local bearing store and inexpensive. These should be machined, or chosen, to be the right lengths for the height of the boxes. How to fasten the boxes to them is still a question in my mind. One alternative is in the back corner of each box wall off a section maybe 1" square. Drill a hole in the bottom of each box within this walled off area and fill it with epoxy entrapping the bushing. The bushing will be a close enough fit on the shaft so it won't be sloppy - hence no sag, it will turn freely, and I believe the epoxy will hold the bushing securely enough so the load will be no problem. Your major concern might be hiding all the hardware so the unit doesn't look like it came out of a machine shop rather than a woodworker's shop.

Wish I had a CAD program so I could easily depict the design. I'll be glad to try to explain further if you're interested.