Using Behlen's Pore-O-Pac grain filler - need help for next time!

[Adam Cavaliere]

I used the Behlen's Pore-O-Pac grain filler (Water Based) and found it to be quite troubelsome on my last project. I like how the stain went on after I got through all the problems though and believe I will probably use something like it again on a pourous wood.

I followed the instructions and tried applying a light coat, but it seemed to change the whole look of the wood (almost like a stain). I knew it would stay in the grain if I sanded off the top. The problem was it took a lot to sand all of it off. Do you guys run into this problem? What steps do you take to avoid this?

[Prashun Patel]

I used a pore filler on a mahogany table last year.

I stained (actually dyed) the raw wood first.
Then I put a coat of dewaxed shellac on top of that.
Then I applied the pore filler. I put it on, then squeegied it across the grain, removing most of the excess. Then I let it dry for about 20 mins - about as long as I let paste wax or grout dry (until it starts to haze). Then I buffed it with burlap.

This way, you only need a light sanding to make it smooth the next day after it dries.

If I'm not coloring, I just use the finish to fill the pores nowadays.

[Adam Cavaliere]

You must have not used a water based grain filler, this stuff dries within minutes...

[Prashun Patel]

Yep, you are correct. Sorry!

[Tim Johnson]

Found this info on Water based fillers HERE
Using Paste Wood Fillers
Article by Jeff Jewitt
Portion taken from text of the article
"USING WATER-BASED FILLERS
The procedure for applying water-based filler is the same as with oil-based fillers but with several variations. Water-based fillers dry very fast and if the filler dries, you can't remove it except by sanding. The best way to use water-based is to apply it and scrape it off immediately. I use a rubber squeegee like the one in the photo. I brush a liberal coat of filler on and then immediately remove the excess with the squeegee. Do not wait for water-based fillers to haze. After scraping, wipe the board with burlap, cross grain at first, and then switching to figure-eights. You probably won't be able to remove all the filler, but that's fine, you'll remove it with the next step. Wait at least an hour and then sand the dried filler off with 240 or 320 grit stearated sandpaper. If the paper gums, the filler hasn't dried fully -- wait another hour and then try again. The filler should powder easily like in the photo. Applying a sealer coat of finish really helps in the removal of the water-based filler, but nonetheless, speed is important.
Water-based fillers differ primarily from oil-based fillers because they take certain stains after application. This means that you can use a neutral filler on raw wood, remove the bulk of it and sand it flush to the surface of the wood after an hour. You can then apply a stain (alcohol dyes and NGR stains are best) and this will color the wood and the filler. Add alcohol to water dyes. If you use a straight water based stain, it will color only the wood. Wait at least three hours (but no longer than 12 hours) to apply the stain. Water-based fillers are dry enough to topcoat with finish after three hours. Any finish can be used; water-based, shellac, lacquer, varnish or polyurethane. "

[Charlie Kocourek]

Great information Tim!

I have used CrystaLac water based grain filler with great success. In my application I wanted a clear grain filler and this stuff is just that. I think I got it at Rockler.

[Adam Cavaliere]

Found this info on Water based fillers HERE
Using Paste Wood Fillers
Article by Jeff Jewitt
Portion taken from text of the article
"USING WATER-BASED FILLERS
The procedure for applying water-based filler is the same as with oil-based fillers but with several variations. Water-based fillers dry very fast and if the filler dries, you can't remove it except by sanding. The best way to use water-based is to apply it and scrape it off immediately. I use a rubber squeegee like the one in the photo. I brush a liberal coat of filler on and then immediately remove the excess with the squeegee. Do not wait for water-based fillers to haze. After scraping, wipe the board with burlap, cross grain at first, and then switching to figure-eights. You probably won't be able to remove all the filler, but that's fine, you'll remove it with the next step. Wait at least an hour and then sand the dried filler off with 240 or 320 grit stearated sandpaper. If the paper gums, the filler hasn't dried fully -- wait another hour and then try again. The filler should powder easily like in the photo. Applying a sealer coat of finish really helps in the removal of the water-based filler, but nonetheless, speed is important.
Water-based fillers differ primarily from oil-based fillers because they take certain stains after application. This means that you can use a neutral filler on raw wood, remove the bulk of it and sand it flush to the surface of the wood after an hour. You can then apply a stain (alcohol dyes and NGR stains are best) and this will color the wood and the filler. Add alcohol to water dyes. If you use a straight water based stain, it will color only the wood. Wait at least three hours (but no longer than 12 hours) to apply the stain. Water-based fillers are dry enough to topcoat with finish after three hours. Any finish can be used; water-based, shellac, lacquer, varnish or polyurethane. "

Thank you for finding this. Interestingly, following this guide still shows that I would need to sand at least some of it off. I may have saved myself some effort if I had wiped enough of the excess off. I don't agree with the stain portion though. Mine didn't really seem to take any stain whatsoever. Prior to applying I did dye it and it seemed to help darken the grain filler. BTW - I do have a scraper too. It works OK, but still keeps everything pretty messy.

With the CrystaLac, it is pretty easy to clean up? Also, do you put it on before or after staining?