scroll saw vs band saw

[scott vroom]

I'm making a teak mirror frame for a bathroom vanity area. The top rail will be slightly curved (think torri gate). I own neither a band saw or scroll saw and was considering using my Porter Cable hand held jig saw to make the cut. I'm guessing this would leave a ragged cut that would require lots of sanding. I'm now asking myself if this is a good time to invest in a band saw or scroll saw. I buy dimensional lumber so don't have a need to resaw (this could change I suppose). I don't do any crafts stuff (toys, etc.) so don't need really tight curved cuts (but might want to make a furniture piece some day that requires a tight curve). I've read that the band saw is preferred if you're making long cuts through thick or hard stock...such as 4/4/teak. Not sure if this is true.

This is probably a common decision for woodworkers. Any comments appreciated.

Thanks

[Brian Kincaid]

Scott, how thick is the wood you need to cut the curve on?

<1/2-3/4" is in scroll saw territory, but check the clearance of the throat, the swing of the saw will determine the stock thickness
<1 or 1.5" you could do with a jigsaw. I have the borg Bosch blades on mine and they leave a very smooth cut
Bandsaw can handle any depth up to resaw height with the right blade

These are approximate stock thicknesses based on the tools I have used. Out of all the tools listed I get the cleanest cut with the jigsaw.

-Brian

[Eric Gustafson]

A band saw is best for this cut, but any of these tools is going to leave an edge that needs sanding. You might consider making a template out of hardboard. Then cut your form a little bigger, use double sided tape and flush cut with a router. That will give you a finish much easier to sand.

[Chris Padilla]

A bandsaw is one of the Big Four that you'll typically find in a shop so its uses are vast. 14" ones can be had for under $500 and serve you well for many years.

[Prashun Patel]

If you have a router, then you can jigsaw cut a template out of 1/4 hardboard, and then sand it true by hand. Then you rough cut the actual stock close to the line with a jig saw (beware of blade leaning). Then you mount the template to the stock and use a pattern or flush trim bit to true up the edge.

Also, consider getting a 2" sanding drum attachment for a drill press (if you have a drill press). Sanding long gradual curves is something that does pretty well for $15.

[Don Jarvie]

Invest in a bandsaw. I you don't need to worry about resawing get a 10 or 12 inch bench top model.

A jig saw is good but the blade can flex in hard wood and you can end up with a 85 degree curve you have to sand out.

[Robert Parrish]

I have both and today I used both to cut the same piece (31" x 3"x 3/8"). I used the bandsaw (14") to cut what I could and the scroll saw to do the rest. I prefer to use my bandsaw as it cuts straighter and can cut thicker wood but there are times when only a scroll will due (inside cuts). Each tool leaves an edge that need sanding.

[Troy Turner]

Invest in a bandsaw. You'll be suprised how much it takes over your tablesaw. I've got a older Craftsman 12" and once it got tuned up, it is NICE!!! I find myself making cuts with it that I could do on the table saw, but there's less waste and not as dusty.

Oh, as far as what you are doing, I'd go with bandsaw. I think of scroll saw for arts and crafts stuff.

[Dave Lehnert]

If you buy a quality scroll saw like the DeWalt and use the right blade it will cut glass smooth. No sanding needed.

[Kent Cartwright]

I started with the DeWalt scroll saw and managed to get through many operations that could/should have been done on a bandsaw better, but was doable on the scroll saw. Since then, I have added a bandsaw and am very happy to do so, but still find cuts that I only feel safe doing on the scroll saw.

[scott vroom]

I'm looking at Grizzly G0555, G0555x, and several of their 17" models. Seems a 14" model would be adequate for cabinet/furniture making, but for a few dollars more could afford one of the 17" models. Is 17" overkill for my applications?

[Michael Arruda]

Scott,

It really is a question of floor space and money. Can you afford the floor space and added cost of a larger tool? If so, go for it. Always get the largest you can afford/ find room for is my philosophy when it comes to saws and stationary sanders. You can always make smaller cuts on a larger saw, but you can't add capacity to a smaller tool- riser blocks and the like not withstanding.

I have a 14" Delta BS that is great. Some day I'd like a 20", but for now, the 14" works fine. I also have a 32" that I've never gotten around to restoring- it's just taking up shop space. As such, I'm going to be finding a new home for it soon. See- the larger tool is nice to have, but I can't afford the floor space for it.

As far as scrollies go, I have an old Delta 40-440 24" that meets my needs nicely. You could really use either tool, but for long, simple curves, I find the bandsaw easier to guide.

Whatever you do, try not to get a "little" tool. My dad used to have a Delta 9" BS and it was a POS. The frame isn't ridgid, the guides are horrible and it used a tiny universal motor. If you go with a good 12", or pretty much any 14" or larger, you'd get a cast iron frame and a belt drive motor- far more solid and greater power. Same thing with scrollies- go with a good one. I used to use a Dewalt, and it was a good tool, but was kind of a jack hammer all over the shop- this was at my college, so I didn't have control over tuning; it could have been badly set up; I don't know. The little B&D, Ryobi and Craftsman scrollies will get you started, but I'm not a big fan- no offence to others, as I know a lot of people can do great things with them. It's like a guitar- give a properly set up Tele to a guitarist and they can make beautiful music. Give them a stick with strings on it and a pickup, and they'll still make beautiful music- it'll just take them a lot longer to get it right.

Whatever you decide, have fun!

-Michael

[Kyle Iwamoto]

I'd disagree on avoiding a small table top band saw. I have the 10" Rikon, and once it's tuned, it cuts straight and clean. It comes with roller guides. I also have a 14" PM with riser, which I use for the bigger stuff. If you don't plan on resawing, you really don't need size for quality. OTOH, that Delta, if it's the same as the one that a friend of mine has, is a POS.

[Michael Peet]

I use my bandsaw all the time. More than my tablesaw, probably.

Mike

[glenn bradley]

I'm looking at Grizzly G0555, G0555x, and several of their 17" models. Seems a 14" model would be adequate for cabinet/furniture making, but for a few dollars more could afford one of the 17" models. Is 17" overkill for my applications?

You could use a pattern bit in a router for your arch. Cut your pattern out rough and file/sand to final shape. If you goof, just make another. Once you have the shape you are happy with, use it as a pattern for your router.

As to 17" being too big, my 17" doesn't take up much more room than my 10" mounted to its factory stand so the footprint isn't really a problem unless your splitting inches. My DW788 scroll saw footprunt is bigger than my G0513X.