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Thread: How would one 'joint' two boards for a computer desk tray, w/o a jointer/block plane

  1. #1

    How would one 'joint' two boards for a computer desk tray, w/o a jointer/block plane

    As the title reads. I have a slight problem of a fair sized gap. Unfortunately, I am not in possession of a jointer/block plane. Are there any other ways? Or would this be a good excuse to buy either or? Would HomeDepot/Lowes sell them, as I really dont want to wait a week to get one shipped in... I am frugal, so please keep the answers As Cheap as Possible.

    -Brendan

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    One way is to not joint the edge between the two boards. Leave them whatever they are. Connect the boards with cleats underneath. Or connect them with a batten underneath.

  3. #3
    Would this eliminate that gap? I am trying to make it as smooth as possible(no/little gaps) so its smooth for my keyboard.

  4. #4
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    try this

    Assuming you have a tablesaw available and a piece of plywood with a straight "factory" edge.

    You can attach the board to be jointed to the plywood, keeping the straight edge against the fence and then rip the board.

    Remove plywood. Then turn the board over, place the now straight edge against the fence, and rip the board again.

    Repeat with second board.

  5. #5
    If you have a router, you can fix the two boards together over a piece of plywood and run a straight edge over the crack between the two boards, so a straight bit will cut both edges of the two boards at the same time,

    or

    if you have a table saw you can tape (2-sided carpet tape) a straight edge to one board at a time, so the straight edge overlaps the board slightly, and (using the straight edge against the t/s fence), cut the opposite edge that you want to join.

    or

    you could tape the two boards together and run both edges thru the saw together at the same time.

    or

    using a factory edge, tape that edge over or under (depending upon what kind of pilot bit you have in the router), and route the other board to match it.

    or

    go to a local cabinet shop and have them run them over a jointer.
    Last edited by Vince Shriver; 04-16-2010 at 6:37 PM.

  6. #6
    Screw it, I need an excuse to get some tools Would a Band Saw provide a decent edge? I can get a cheap Skil 9"(Or Ryobi, not sure which is better) for $119 or I can get a Porter Cable for $400 14" (me no gusta el priceo...) I was thinking 14TPI?

    Or should I look into a cheap HF jointer (I think it was like $200.)

    Or should I look into the hand tool approach of a Block Plane... for about $20(not sure if all BPs can do a jointable edge)

    I hate to spend a lot of money, but my choices are somewhat limited... being out in the sticks means no cabinet shops. The TS I have access to doesnt cut true, or I would have that re-ran threw. The sander I have makes a hell of a mess, and takes alot of skill to get anything flat...

    Thanks

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brendan Plavis View Post
    Screw it, I need an excuse to get some tools Would a Band Saw provide a decent edge? I can get a cheap Skil 9"(Or Ryobi, not sure which is better) for $119 or I can get a Porter Cable for $400 14" (me no gusta el priceo...) I was thinking 14TPI?

    Or should I look into a cheap HF jointer (I think it was like $200.)

    Or should I look into the hand tool approach of a Block Plane... for about $20(not sure if all BPs can do a jointable edge)

    I hate to spend a lot of money, but my choices are somewhat limited... being out in the sticks means no cabinet shops. The TS I have access to doesnt cut true, or I would have that re-ran threw. The sander I have makes a hell of a mess, and takes alot of skill to get anything flat...

    Thanks

    Bandsaw is a very poor choice. Best edge for cheap is a Ryobi router/table for ~100 at the BORG and a decent straight bit. Plenty of tutorials and videos on the web for jointing with a router.

    If you are in a hurry the black plane isn't the answer, takes some time and practice to get decent, plus by the time you buy it and the sharpening supplies, learn to hone the blade and get good... you get the picture.

  8. #8
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    IMO a band saw will not give you a joint ready edge. You'll need a plane anyways. They all have some degree of chipout, blade wandering, all kinds of stuff. If you really are set on getting one, I would check into the Rikon 10" I have one I think it's a sweet deal. Comes with roller guides. A bit more than the Ryobi, but less than the 400 buck PC.

    For your joint question, IMO a No. 5 plane (the long one) would be your best cheapest option. You can get a cheapo off brand or Stanley from the local BORG or Sears. Or you can do it with a cheap block plane (the small short one), but the results are not going to be as good as a No. 5. Yes, you would need to build some sharpening skills, but it's not hard.

  9. #9
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    Brendan,
    Process the boards with the best butt fit you can make with a hand plane, or whatever. Glue them up, and let them cure. Then run them through the table saw with a good blade along the glue joint, one that would provide a quality glue joint kerf. You will have a mirror image with both pieces, glue them up and you have a great fit. I mitered some boards for a corner desk once. The joint sucked, so I cut along the glue joint with a circular saw with a good blade. The resulting joint fit very well.

  10. #10
    I agree with Van. Get a Ryobi router table and a straight bit, probably about $120.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brendan Plavis View Post
    Would this eliminate that gap? I am trying to make it as smooth as possible(no/little gaps) so its smooth for my keyboard.
    Most keyboards wouldn't care about a gap between the boards.

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by Jamie Buxton View Post
    Most keyboards wouldn't care about a gap between the boards.
    But if my keyboard rocks, it will drive me nuts.... not to mention I need a decent surface for my mouse, as well as sometimes I will stick my keyboard up and use the tray to write a paper on, so I really dont want large gaps...

    Thanks though

  13. #13
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    If you are talking about the bottom of the tray have you considered plywood. That is the normal way to approach a drawer bottom except in some period piece repro.

  14. #14
    Yea I did, but plywood at the local HD is so damned expensive.... so I just decided to use a few pieces of wood that were in the shed to do it...

    I had a piece of plywood, but it was crap...

  15. #15
    Brendan,
    You have got to be kidding. You're ready to spend $400 for a band saw but you don't want to spent $20 for a quarter sheet of decent plywood for something as simple as a keyboard tray???

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