Marking knife suggestions?

[Tony Shea]

I'm kind of in the market for a new marking knife specifically for transfering tails to the pin board or visa versa. I have been using an exacto/hobby style knife but find the blade a bit too flexible and the angle of the blade actually cuts into the template board as I'm scribing my marks, just too steep of and angle. I've really been looking at the double bevel style knifes that can be used left or right handed as I think this would come in handy but maybe not neccessary. I'm just kind of looking for others opinions on likes and dislikes for a knife of this purpose.

I've actually been looking at Knight Toolworks version.

[Matthew Dworman]

I really like Dave Anderson's:

http://www.chestertoolworks.com/markingknives.htm


And also Blue Spruce:


http://www.bluesprucetoolworks.com/c...ction&key=SMK2


Both are excellent - Plus we all know Dave here and it is nice to support a member!!

[Tony Shea]

Hmm, Chester Toolworks and Knight Toolworks. Are these two companies related somehow? They show the same knife but one place is a bit cheaper than the other.

[Ethan Sincox]

I have two blue spruce marking knives in my shop (thus reducing the time spent searching for a marking knife by half!) and love them both.

Dave Jeske is a great businessman - communication and customer satisfaction are top notch.

One of my marking knives has a custom handle - curly Honduran mahogany. I think Dave will make a knife with pretty much any kind of wood you can supply him with, as long as it is of the proper minimum dimensions...

[Matthew Dworman]

Hmm, Chester Toolworks and Knight Toolworks. Are these two companies related somehow? They show the same knife but one place is a bit cheaper than the other.

Dave Anderson is Chester Toolworks - I believe that Knight Toolworks among others sell Dave's products. I don't believe that Dave shows his prices on his web-site so I don't know if one is "Cheaper" than the other. In my experience, I always prefer to purchase directly from the manufacturer. Even if it is a couple bucks more, for these reasons:
1: They are getting more than the wholesale price that they get from a third party - this helps enable them to continue making a living and offering great products

2: The service is always better - if there is ever an issue with your tool, you are dealing directly with the person that made it as opposed to a catalog company or some other third party.

3: You develop a relationship with the maker - They may have a special wood or a new tool to offer - if you ever want something custom, they are already familiar with you...

That is why I highly recommend both Dave Anderson at Chester Toolworks and Dave Jeske at Blue Spruce Toolworks...

[Doug Shepard]

I've been very happy with the ones I've gotten from the Czech Edge
http://czeckedge.com/store/index.php...f39619f01abe39

[Jim Koepke]

The double bevel style is a lot better for marking. It can still cut into the template wood if one is not careful.

In my opinion, the handle is as important as the blade. An uncomfortable handle will have you wanting for a different knife.

My handle was turned from a scrap of rosewood after observing my grip on pens and pencils:

Picture 10.jpg

The blade was made from an old saw blade. The ferrule is a piece from a tubing compression fitting.

Not as nice as can be bought, but it only cost me the time and gave me pleasure making it and now when it is used.

jim

[Derek Cohen]

Both the Daves make super knives, but if you have yen to make your own, here is a tutorial ...

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMad...Dovetails.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Jeff Hamilton Jr.]

Like Derek said, if you have the time to make your own ...

I purchased a kit from Czech edge (can't remember the exact knife name they have super thin, regular and large . ... mine was the regular size).

I turned the cocobolo handle and put the knife together using the very easy instructions. The whole event probably took about an hour and 1/2 given futzing. It was fun and the handle is to my exact specs.

It is my avatar here on this site.

I've used it alot for dovetail marking and other detail chores and it works great. The blade is long enough to clear 1 & 1/2 inch wood easily and thin enough to get in between fairly tight dovetail spacing.

[Casey Gooding]

I have the large and small knives from Blue Spruce Toolworks. They are fantastic!! I also have the Veritas knife and use it when I want the reference of a wider face.

[Rick Erickson]

Cosman is coming out with a new one in a few months.

[Tony Shea]

Casey, what knife would you reccomend for getting into the tight spaces of a dovetail, large or small. I would assume small. Also, out of Dave's knives is the small version real flimsy such as that of a exacto knife? Would the medium work fine for getting into the small confines of a dovetail? Sorry for all the questions, I just can't afford to by two at the moment therefore want to make the right choice. I have never seen any of these knives in person therefore have no idea of size comparisons.

[Leigh Betsch]

Both the Daves make super knives, but if you have yen to make your own, here is a tutorial ...

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMad...Dovetails.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

Stop it, stop it, stop it. I ain't listening. Making your own tools is addicting and you guys gotta stop it!
And I have the steel already bought, now I gotta find a source for some snake wood.

[Dale Sautter]

snip... now I gotta find a source for some snake wood.

http://www.gilmerwood.com/boards_snakewood_unique.htm

Talk to Jim... he'll hook you up.

[Derek Cohen]

Hi Tony

Generally you need two knives: one for detail work, such as marking dovetails, and another for heavy work, such as scoring a deep line for a tenon shoulder or dado.

Note that the skinny detail/dovetail knife is really only necessary if you are transfering skinny ("London") tails to pins. If you cut your dovetails pin first then you can use a pencil or a thick-bodied marking knife.

The thickness of the blade for a skinny dovetail is ideally able to fit into the kerf of a saw. So you need the skinny blade, not the medium blade.



Half blind London dovetails ....



For the rear through dovetails, which are wide-ish, you could use most knives - certainly get away with a medium thick blade.

Regards from Perth

Derek