Morse Taper

[Allen Howell]

Glen, I have that one (keyless) and have not had a problem with it in my 46-455 (same as the 460 but not variable speed, DOH!). I have done a fair amount of drilling with it from the tailstock, but have not used it in the headstock, although I assume it fits there equally well.

[Steve Campbell]

I got one at Woodcraft that works great. One thing to look at is weather it has a drilled and tapped hole in the end of the taper. If you plan on using it in the headstock you need a draw bolt to hold it in. If you don't use a draw bolt the chuck "WILL" come loose and not always at a good time.....................

Steve

[Scott Conners]

I will resurrect this old thread as I have this same lathe and (just like Greg) am now looking to purchase a drill chuck. From reading this thread it sounds like the 46-460 has a #2 morse taper. However, there seems to be a problem with the length of some of the chucks. I'd prefer not to have to modify it. Does anyone know of a drill chuck that is compatible "as is" with the 46-460?

I am looking at this one, but don't want to make the purchase only to find out that it needs modification to fit.

http://www.amazon.com/PSI-Woodworkin...7100233&sr=1-3

This is designed for a lathe with a short morse taper:http://littlemachineshop.com/product...1148&category=
Personally, I use a beefier chuck: http://littlemachineshop.com/product...3153&category=
with this short arbor: http://littlemachineshop.com/product...1804&category=
I do a lot of very precision work in my drill chuck, and this one has worked very well for me. (I've been through a few). They have an arbor with drawbar threads, but it isn't short. I've never had a chuck come loose when I seated it properly in a clean spindle.
It's also no big deal to grind down the end of a taper if it's too long for your spindle. If you have to remove a significant amount, cut it off with a hacksaw or cutoff wheel first, then grind it smooth. Chamfer the tip, so any burrs don't score the taper.