Results from some Target Coatings Test Pieces

[Brad Wood]

Hey everyone,

It has been a while since I've been here. Not up to much, getting through the winter. Shop/garage isn't heated well, so it has been down time for me in the shop.

Anyway...

I have some results from some test pieces I did using some of the Target Coatings water based products. Thought you all might be interested.

Wood used: Alder. This particular alder is almost straight white in color

I have six test pieces. Two plain wood, two with Transtint "Honey Amber", two with Transtint "Reddish Brown". I did the dyes water based rather than alcohol.

Finish for set one:
BLO - full strength, allowed to cure for one week
Dewaxed Shellac - Zinnsers SealCoat
Target Coatings EM6000 Production Lacquer (Flat)

Finish for set two:
Target Coatings Oxford Ultima Clear Base stain (so, no color, just the base)
Target Coatings EM6000 production Lacquer (Flat)

Set two method was based on responses either here or at the Target forums that the Clear Base Stain would produce a similar result with the wood as the BLO does. Interestingly, the Clear Base is a Linseed Oil based product, so I had high hopes.

I used the Earlex HV3000 with a 1.5mm needle. Per Target suggestions, I added retardant to the EM6000 for "underpowered HVLP systems"

Results:
First off the final finish quality itself is fantastic. This is my first venture into lacquer, and probably the third thing I've sprayed since getting the Earlex. I am VERY VERY happy with the look and feel of the finish itself. This will likely be my standard topcoat method from this point forward.

Undercoat comparison:
Of the two sets, the BLO/Shellac/EM6000 recipe has a much richer feel to it. The Reddish Brown and Honey Amber are both darker and have a more fully developed feel to them. On set two, the two colors are just a bit more dull.
I don't know that I dislike the results for set two, but it is very different. I might be able to match the result if I went much heavier with the dye application. That will be for next time.

Interestingly, the raw wood pieces are almost identical.
I'm sure a thought as you read this... "how do you know the dyes were applied the same"? They were all done on one piece of wood and then it was cut down the middle... so, the amount of dye is equal to the two sets.
On the raw wood, the pure water based solution (set two) came out pretty nice. I'm going to do a similar test on Maple next, so it will be interesting to see if the results are similar or completely different.

I just wanted to report my findings. Hopefully this information is useful. I've gotten so much from folks here I try to give back whenever I can.

- Brad

[Chris Friesen]

Something to consider...the BLO one will continue to darken with time. After decades it will get quite dark. Tung oil will look similar initially but won't darken with time.

[Roger Jensen]

Curious why you didn't use the shellac for the second sample as well. I believe the Target Clear Stain is just a water-bourne BLO, isn't it? Does the clear stain contain tung oil?

I would think the darkening will be the same for both samples, but Jeff at Target would give you a more qualified answer.

[Brad Wood]

Curious why you didn't use the shellac for the second sample as well. I believe the Target Clear Stain is just a water-bourne BLO, isn't it? Does the clear stain contain tung oil?

I would think the darkening will be the same for both samples, but Jeff at Target would give you a more qualified answer.

I only used the shellac as a barrier between the blo and water based lacquer.
The clear stain is linseed oil of some kind, but a barrier isn't required between the two products

[Roger Jensen]

You are right.

Of course, I have no idea what the difference is between "Boiled Linseed Oil" and "Hybridized Linseed Oil Emulsion".

Thanks for the clarification.

[Brad Wood]

You are right.

Of course, I have no idea what the difference is between "Boiled Linseed Oil" and "Hybridized Linseed Oil Emulsion".

Thanks for the clarification.

LOL, I know what you mean. Having absolutely no clue about the chemistry of much of this stuff, logic would suggest if you need a barrier between blo and em6000, you should need a barrier between the linseed oil clear base and the em6000.
I mean, if the whole point behind the shellac is that you can't put a water based product on top of an oil based product, why don't I need shellac between the clear base stain and em6000? After all, it says "linseed oil" right on the front of the can (of the clear stain base that is)

[Roger Jensen]

I'm sure you're not looking for things to do, but it would be interesting to see what happens if you use Target shellac on your clear stain before the 6000. Did you read on the Target web site about issues witn Sealcoat and their topcoats? Something about ph/compatibility with the shellac and you need to dilute it.

It is actually an important decision for me. I am about to do a bunch of cherry cabinets for my kitchen and I was planning to use clear stain, followed by their shellac to seal and slightly color, then 8000.

I guess there are two at least options. First, use BLO and deal with the longer cure times (not a problem at the rate my cabinets are progressing), then seal with shellac. Target says to wipe it down with 50/50 DNA/water after curing. Alternatively, use their clear stain which may not need the shellac but will cause some grain raising issues due to the WB nature of the stuff.

Too many decisions...