[OP]
Member
Hello all,
After two years of being out of the shop (due to moving to a new location/job), I have finally wired up my shop and am ready to get back into building the many furniture projects on my wife's list.
First up, I need to make a new miter saw stand (I trashed my old design in the move) and I would love to see what those more accomplished than I came up with! I have the Kreg flip stop/track system that I will use in conjunction with a Bosch 10: SCMS.
Thanks!
Member
I have plans to make one in the near future. I have it narrowed down to two designs... one by ShopeNotes and one by Fine Woodworking... you could check them out online for some ideas... Not sure which, but one of the designs even used the Kreg kit you have!
Contributor
I just finished this last weekend. I went round and round with all the published designs and none of them quite worked for my space. This is what I came up with. I think it's nice and simple, but functional. And fits into the world's smallest shop.
Guest
Ill give you a hint... its concrete... its cold.... and you generally park your car/trash bins on it....Originally Posted by John Henry Newman
I dont use a stand myself, but if you care for it, I could perhaps design one up for you(I am experienced in Solidworks(CAD.)
Member
John, here is a couple photo's of my miter saw station. It captures 100% of the dust. The sides come off for miter cuts. Dust collection with the sides off is about 85 to 90%.
Sam
Member
Here's my set up:
I hook up my flexible hose to a jointer port that I installed on the counter under the saw. I catch maybe 60-70% of the dust with this hood set up. I kind of cobbled the DC portion together after the fact, though, and my saw's built-in DC is terrible.
Member
Matt: is your's a Kreg fence? I have not seen that style in person. A quick search shows it comes in two feet lengths -- is that two sections??
I like the Kreg stuff -- I see (at Rockler) you can buy the other stye in 4' length tracks -Or get a kit with 4 2' lengths.
I need to do an upgrade for mine.
Member
IF you are looking for a great mobile unit, FWW had a design for one this last year (FWW 209). I think they also featured it in their latest Garage and Shop Issue.
http://www.finewoodworking.com/Proje....aspx?id=33070
I know someone here built it and posted pics, if it interests you do a search.
Member
Thumbs up guys!
Other than an outfeed table on the T-Saw, the single most helpful and useful tool mod you can do is set up your miter saw well. Cross cutting is one of the most common operations we do, and a few hours invested this will pay you back for years to come.
I'd almost rather not have a indexed fence on the T-Saw than go without a stop system for the Miter Saw.
I have 3 stands which are very similar to Sams. Melamine decks, dadod in fence and about 8" tall. One is only 6' long for taking to jobs, the other two have about 8' on the left side with the track, and 2' on the right side for support. One uses a rollar stand, the other a mounted rollar on the right for longer stock support.
Couple of tips:
-The kreg flip stop has a bit of slop, so it's not as good as the solid stop for precision. You can lock it tight in the non-flip stop mode and is as good as the solid stop.
-I like the Beismeyer stop just as well as the kreg. Don't buy the cheap imitations which have the horrible bubble style cursor. (Bubble style will move the apparent location of the cursor left and right depending on your head location)
-On the right side of the saw, the fence is not aligned with the chop saw fence--it's about a 1/4" splayed back. That way if you have a slightly warped board, you can push it's end tight on the chop saw fence and get a true 90degree cut. The purpose of the right fence is to facilitate initial alignment when you throw a board up there.
-To cut short pieces, use a dedicated 10" spacer block. (set stop at 17", use the block, and cut a 7" piece.) Under no circumstances do we want to go back to barbaric tape measure/pencil mark chasing of our ancestors.
-Steve
Member
Here's mine, It has some pull out storage trays below and pull out supports on the sides.
There is rudimentary dust collection, I need to fiddle with it a bit to increase performance.
Also it is cobbled together from scraps so there are no plans, I just used some good ideas I saw in other stations.
I generally use my miter saw for ruff cuts and carpentry so I don't really need the adjustable stops(I do have a simple system I can rig if I need it)... I usually use my RAS and TS for fine furniture, and repeatable setups.
Contributor
It is a 4' Kreg. I got it off of Amazon a while back. http://www.amazon.com/Kreg-KMS7704-4...2575637&sr=8-1
I just bought new flip stop (now called a "Swing Stop") and it has no slop to speak of. I did experience that with a previous one on their miter gauge. I haven't been able to do a side by side comparison, but I think there may be an extra bushing included now that prevents that.
Member
Brian,
One of the nice things about having a stop system, is that you don't HAVE to use it.
When I am rough cutting, I typically cut at plus 1". It's really nice having the fence and ruler set up, because I can make my cut without using the stop or a tape measure--just use the eyeball method using the ruler on the fence.
Anytime you use a tape measure, you are wasting life!
-Steve
Member
Heres mine it is great and then it goes away.
http://www.mcfeelys.com/product/DW-D...iter-Saw-Stand
Member
Here's the one I built. Based on the FWW plans.
Member
Hi,
Due to my limited shop real estate, I tried to combine functions when I built my miter saw / planer stand. I may eventually build a stand-alone planer stand for convenience (the Dewalt weighs about 90 lbs), but for now this works fine. My most significant design flaw was having the wings separate; I will eventually connect them to the table on hinges. Other than that I am pretty happy with it.
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