cyclones--sheetmetal verses plastic

[Phil Winn]

Question about Cyclones--Dust Collectors...
I am thinking about either a sheetmetal unit (26gauge)
OR a clear plastic (www.clearvuecyclones.com) both
built on Bill Pentz' design...
1. Pros and cons of 26g sheetmetal verses plasstic?
2. Would the plastic break if a nail got sucked into it?
3. Does anyone have experience with the Bill Pentz sheetmetal or the Ed M clearvuecyclones? Thanks,
Phil

[Jack Diemer]

I have the sheet metal one. It is a lot of work to put together. I know the newer designs are easier to put together, but all that aside. The plastic cyclone looks really easy to put together, and it would be wicked cool to watch dust go through it.

[Tom LaRussa]

Question about Cyclones--Dust Collectors...

I am thinking about either a sheetmetal unit (26gauge)
OR a clear plastic (www.clearvuecyclones.com) both
built on Bill Pentz' design...
1. Pros and cons of 26g sheetmetal verses plasstic?
2. Would the plastic break if a nail got sucked into it?
3. Does anyone have experience with the Bill Pentz sheetmetal or the Ed M clearvuecyclones? Thanks,
Phil

Phil,

1. Having worked a bit with plastic -- poly and acrylic -- I have a bad feeling that the "clearvue" cyclone will, after some usage, become the "frosted view" cyclone. I also have a feeling that building from plastic would be quite expensive, compared to sheet metal.

Note that I don't actually know either of the above statements to be true -- just a gut reaction.

2. If you use the right plastic, i.e., anything with polycarbonate on the surface, and thick enough, it won't crack.

[Robert Mayer]

and it would be wicked cool...

Jack you must be from New England!

[Phil Winn]

Is the 26g sheetmetal rigid? For cleaning, taking the blower on and off with the air ramp etc.,????
The Oneida and other units are made from 16g (+ or -)
metal which is much thicker....The "clear plastic" would be more rigid than the 26g SM. I really don't care about the "clear" aspect of it. Static Electricity? Any other thoughts?

Phil Winn

[Larry D. Wagner]

Phil

I don't know if Penn State's cyclone meets Pentz's design, but according to the latest catalog I received, their Cyclone can be purchased seperately.
It's made out of 17 ga steel and is painted. It is also quite a bit cheaper than the plastic one you list.($280.00 vs $350.00) I am in the planning stages and will either be building or buying very shortly. AT the present my old single stage 2 HP has been getting me by.

Larry

[Scott Coffelt]

First thing, I am hoping you are not sucking up nails into the cyclone, they won't go far but no real reason to suck up nails. Next, sucking up metal can result in sparks and we know what that means. As far as plastic versus metal, though I think the idea of a clear cyclone is also wicked cool (to steal Jack's phrase), I tend to like the metal better for a couple of reasons. 1) it's metal and it can be grounded, 2) I like metal and my whole system is basically metal.

As far as performance, the BP designs and other after built on similar specs, are really commerical grade units versus the Penn State for a price range of small shop units. You do have to figure for some level of construction with them, but they will out perform.


As far as how well will they hold up. These things are heavy and taking down all the time to clean is not really easy. Jack and I worked our rears off trying to lift mine in place. I used the Cincinnati impeller so I don't have to clean. I wouldn't want to take the chance of dropping it and denting. Other than that I have no concerns on it lasting.

[mike lucas]

Heating an cooling metal duct pipe is most often 26 ga. for the cheap stuff, and 24 ga. for the better stuff. I could easily crush a 6" diameter piece of 26 ga. pipe, I would guess that at 18" diameter it would cave in if you looked at it wrong.

I would not use anything thinner then 18 ga.

As for the Penn State cyclone housing, it is thick enough to with stand most situations. But the funnel is much to short to do a lot of good. It looks to be 8-12 inches shorter then the Bill Pentz design. And his is really a little too short. But designed as long as he felt he could get by due to ceiling room in the average shop. At least this is what I got out of some of his writings.

Like I said, 26 gauge sheet metal is way too thin for a dust collector. One thing that will help a lot, is to use bed liner on the inside and outside. I came up with this idea way back. And now, I have read others using this. I would do this on 16-18 gauge as well, but with 20-26 gauge it is a must. And a huge plus you get out of bed liner as a coating, is sound proofing.

[Norman Hitt]

One thing that will help a lot, is to use bed liner on the inside and outside. I came up with this idea way back. And now, I have read others using this. I would do this on 16-18 gauge as well, but with 20-26 gauge it is a must. And a huge plus you get out of bed liner as a coating, is sound proofing.

I like the idea of using the "Bed Liner" material for sound insulation on a cyclone, and also, for protecting the metal, especially on the interior at the inlet area of the cyclone from the Environmental Erosion caused by the sawdust, but I am unsure of one aspect of using it on the inside.

My concern is that of all the Bedliners I have seen or had sprayed on, they all seem to have a very uneven surface texture, and I'm wondering if this would cause enough "Surface Drag" to increase the Static pressure loss across the cyclone. I would be interested to know if anyone has tested this.

Cheers........Norm

[Jim Becker]

Heating an cooling metal duct pipe is most often 26 ga. for the cheap stuff, and 24 ga. for the better stuff.

Actually, most HVAC stuff is 28-30 guage and stove pipe is 26 guage. The really low pressure that HVAC works at doesn't require more than that. Oneida and other suppliers generally provide 26 guage snap-lock for straight pipe and it works fine for systems up to 2-3hp. But spiral is better in the upper ranges if you have a "kick butt" system that really moves air.

[mike lucas]

Actually, most HVAC stuff is 28-30 guage and stove pipe is 26 guage. The really low pressure that HVAC works at doesn't require more than that. Oneida and other suppliers generally provide 26 guage snap-lock for straight pipe and it works fine for systems up to 2-3hp. But spiral is better in the upper ranges if you have a "kick butt" system that really moves air.

Everywhere I have checked (Home Depot, Lowes, Carter Lumber, and Tractor Supply) all have 26 ga. pipe, and Lowes also have 24 ga.

I have not seen anything in the 28-30 ga. pipe in resent years. I know that it exist, because I do remember seeing it many years ago. Just not lately!

I still would stay with 18 ga. or better for something as important as the cyclone body.

As for bed liner, that is a very good piont I had not thought of. I am sure the bed liner material could be knocked down to make it smooth as it is being brushed on. When it is being used as a bed liner, it is left rough for a reason.

[Jim Becker]

Everywhere I have checked (Home Depot, Lowes, Carter Lumber, and Tractor Supply) all have 26 ga. pipe, and Lowes also have 24 ga.

I have not seen anything in the 28-30 ga. pipe in resent years. I know that it exist, because I do remember seeing it many years ago. Just not lately!

All five of my local HD's as well as the two Lowes carry mostly 28-30 guage HVAC pipe and a limited supply of 26 guage material. Nothing heavier. The local HVAC supply house is stocked similarly but can get heavier by special order.

I strongly agree on the cyclone body comments, but most folks would have difficulty working with metal heavier than about 22-24 guage "at home". Just cutting it would be an effort, let alone bending it. It might be a good job to sub to a local sheet metal shop as I did for some custom duct work for the range hood when I did my kitchen remodel.