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Thread: Pen Finishing Problem??

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    near Dallas, Texas
    Posts
    846

    Pen Finishing Problem??

    OK, folks.....I need some more help. Have just finished my first few pens. They look pretty nice; but I am not satisfied with the finish. Most, but not all, of the blanks have very fine rotational scratches. You can't see them at normal "writing" distance; but they are noticeable in the right light at a couple of inches. Most people probably wouldn't ever notice them; but I do and want a better result. I'm new to woodworking and finishing so I don't know what the problem is(wood or finish) or how to go about solving it.

    A few details......
    Sanding: I start with 150 grit and go through 600 and then micromesh thru 12000. Sand with the lathe running and then turn it off and sand longitudinally for each grit and dust before going to the next grit. I don't see any scratches on the wood after final sanding; but maybe the finish is bringing them out??

    Finish: Nothing fancy. The lathe came with HUT Crystal Coat and that is all I use. Put a drop or two on a paper towel and apply it to the wood with the lathe off. Then turn the lathe on and friction polish. Generally use about 5 coats.

    One thing I do wonder about is the sanding grits that I am using. When I bought SP, they did not have 320 grit so my current sanding routine skips from 220 to 400. Is that too big a jump?? Should I look elsewhere for some 320 grit SP??

    How do I figure out if the problem is the sanding or the finish??

    Another question.....I have seen a couple of suggestions that friction polish doesn't hold up very well in situations where there is a lot of exposure to handling?? I'm making pens to be used and not put in a box for show. Is there a better way to finish them than a friction polish and not terribly lengthy or involved?? And finally, would I get a better result if I used a sealer of some sort??

    I know this is sort of a load.......sorry. I've read both Dick Sing's book and the one by Christiansen and haven't been able to solve this for myself. Any help will be greatly appreciated!! Thanks.

  2. #2
    just a thought but whatever you are using to apply your friction polish may be a higher grit than you 12000. I am using CA glue to finish my antler pens and it shines nicely and seems to wear well. (learned this here on the Creek)I havent tried it on wood yet. good luck.
    Last edited by Martin Lutz; 11-19-2004 at 2:20 PM.
    Enjoy the journey,

    Martin


    ---------------
    Whatever is true, whatever is noble, whatever is right, whatever is pure, whatever is lovely, whatever is admirable --- if anything is excellent or praiseworthy --- think about such things. --- Paul of Tarsus

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Tacoma, WA
    Posts
    519
    I haven't ever seen the need to go higher than 600 grit and only to 400 for open grain woods. The trick for sanding is what you are doing, which is to sand with the grain after each sanding grit. It is not necessary to completely get rid of all scratches just to make them run with the grain. Your sanding is probably OK (actually overkill ) which leaves the finish. I have not used HUT so I can't comment but I use gloss sealer first followed by Shellawax liquid and I haven't had any problems. You do need to keep the rag moving as you finish which will help with the lines. Also, just practice, experiment, and practice some more. It will come with time. Most products/methods will give great results to somebody. The trick is finding which ones work for you. That takes time and experimentation. Good luck!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    MA. & CA.
    Posts
    247

    Try this...

    It is the Hut CC; try

    www.compliantspraysystems.com

    Ask for their POLY Endura sample kit for $25.00
    you will love it.


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