Paint saw table

[Brendan Plavis]

I give up... I have already coated my bandsaw table with 2 coats of Johnsons Paste Wax, thick coats, and I am seeing faint signs of rust already(I cannot tell if thats just some that I never got up, but if any more accumulates then this will apply.) I was wondering if it would be possible to just paint it, and be done with it!

I realize I am being a bit anal about the rust, but in the moisture of my workshop/garage, it seems to be the only solution I can see...(I really dont feel like putting another $200 on a dehumidifier.)

How much would a powder coat cost?

Would this leave a smoothe enough surface?

I havent been in my garage in the past two days(eye is still dialated, so I am sensitive to light.) But this really is no fun to be derusting every couple days..... Dang.... darned global warming causing all this moisture....

-brendan

[Jerry Bruette]

Powder coating your saw table would require some way to bake it, that's how to powder coat paint is cured.

I've never used it but the Boeshield products have high reviews here on the creek.

Jerry

[Brendan Plavis]

Powder coating your saw table would require some way to bake it, that's how to powder coat paint is cured.

I've never used it but the Boeshield products have high reviews here on the creek.

Jerry

I would probably outsource the powder coating.... either that or start cooking up a culinary delight.... if you know what I mean(wonder what the 'rents would think of this one....) Sufflay a la revêtement en poudre(powder coat in french)....

-Brendan

[Gerry Grzadzinski]

I mentioned this before, but get a can of Topcoat. Apply a couple coats, and you shouldn't get any rust. Just let each coat dry thoroughly before buffing off.

[Andrew Nemeth]

You have probably already seen all this before but...

Have you been applying the wax with steel wool or something abrasive to really work it in? You can also heat up the surface with a hair dryer to melt it in. Apply several coats allow each to dry between. Don't buff until very dry, it should be pretty difficult to buff, I build up a sweat.

If your still getting rust a used Craigslist dehumidifier would be my first choice over powercoating or painting. You will probably have more money wrapped up in powder coating one table then you would with buying a dehumidifier. A dehumidifier will help keep all of your tools nice, but more importantly, if it is that humid in your shop your lumber is likely not very stable either. If you do end up powder coating or painting you will get scratches that you will have to touch up or wax to prevent rust.

-Andrew

[Matt Kestenbaum]

My workshop is in the basement and its pretty dank...even as basements go. I'd used wax and a week later some fuzz. Then I tried Boeshield T9...a few more more weeks but then some dull fuzz seemed to be creeping back. Especially where there were hand or fingerprints.

Using both has been my winning ticket. First get up any residual rust...and wax up. I've used (very sparingly) Boeshield Rust Remover on any tougher spots (it came in a promo pack with the T9 and some pitch remover/blade cleaner). Wipe it off fast to prevent any etching. Cover the iron with a fairly liberal coat of T9 and rub it in with a no scratch scotch brite pad. Wipe. Apply another coat and let it set for 30-45 minutes. Wipe any excess and let set for an hour. Then I apply good paste wax (no silicon) with another no-scatch scotch-brite pad. Buff and repeat twice more. I have now gone 4-5 months without having anything but a slick shiny jointer or TS.

[Myk Rian]

Brendan;
Powder coating is not the way to go. It's expensive.
Here's what I do.

Bar Keepers Friend. A powder found in the grocery store.
Make a paste with water. Scrub it in real good.
Wipe it off real good.
Do it again in spots that need it.
Wipe it off.
Wipe real good with alcohol.
Now apply the paste wax in a thick coat. Just one coat.
Melt it into the surface with a hair dryer.
Buff it with an old T shirt.

[John Mark Lane]

I hate to say it, but having "been there" in a serious way, there is not much you can really do in the long run if you have a very humid shop. One of my prior shops was in a garage that was at the bottom of a hill, and every time it rained a small amount of water would creep in at a couple of corners. But more than that, it was just always humid. Many good tools rusted constantly in that shop. Plus it was uncomfortable to work in.

I tried dehumidifiers. Like trying to empty the ocean with a bucket. Not to mention you have to route the outflow hose somehow, and the damn things take a lot of electricity to run (read: high electric bills). Plus they make an annoying noise.

I would actually suggest maximizing the use of alloy metals. I know it's not a great suggestion, but I ended up with a few Delta Shopmaster tools that were mostly aluminum, and they didn't rust (except the blades). Other than that, constant use of Boshield or other coatings helps, but it is a constant uphill battle.

I can't tell you how happy I am to finally have a dry shop space. I feel like I can finally buy good tools again!

Sorry, didn't mean to rain on your parade (no fun intended). But really, the cold hard reality is it's a hard hard battle against humidity.

[Doug Carpenter]

It's kinda like when you buy a new hammer. It just isn't going to stay shiny. Unless you have a climate control shop you are just going to have to live with it.

I have bought these magnetic covers for my steel tables. They work well, you cover them when you are not using them.

My dryer blows into my garage and it still keeps my table saw in good shape.

I also use Butcher's clear paste wax. It is for bowling alleys. I also use it on my concrete countertops.

[Joe Chritz]

If your shop is that humid then you have bigger problems than the cast iron as well. Wood projects don't like going from high humidity to low after being built.

Before you get crazy, buy a $20 gauge from radio shack that reads the relative humidity. The RH in the shop should be under 45% at all times.

If the RH is in an acceptable range then you may be getting condensation from the cold cast iron surfaces. This is more a problem in the summer and in tight shops, mine is very bad for it. Often leaving a small oscillating fan running keeps the air moving and fixes the problem.

If the RH is much over 45% then you are likely going to want to find a way to keep it down some. Heating is much cheaper than dehumidification and accomplishes the same thing. You can even dry green lumber by just keeping the inside temp 20 degrees or so higher than outside.

No matter what I am a firm believer you need to know the RH in your shop so you can monitor where the wood is at. Not as accurate as a moisture meter but completely workable.

Something else is going on if you are getting rust after waxing. Try not to worry about it, consider it character marks. Kinda like running a circular saw blade into the extension wing. I heard about this guy in MI that did that once.

Joe

[Rob Hermann]

Joe is absolutely correct, wood does not do well from a humid shop. I have this problem very very badly. As far as my table tops though I use the magnetic covers I purchased at Woodcraft. With semi-regular waxing and keeping the magnetic sheet on, my rust problems are not too bad at all. The wood however, different story. Haven't worked that out, yet.

[Bob Wingard]

Years ago, on a whim, I applied a coat of poly to my BS table. To this day, it looks good, and doesn't seem to ever be bothered by rust. I can only assume the poly filled the pores of the cast iron, and that is keeping the rust at bay.

[John Mark Lane]

Years ago, on a whim, I applied a coat of poly to my BS table. To this day, it looks good, and doesn't seem to ever be bothered by rust. I can only assume the poly filled the pores of the cast iron, and that is keeping the rust at bay.

You mean plain old clear polyurethane? You painted the cast iron table with polyurethane? That's interesting. I would have expected it to peel and make a mess. Did you prep the surface in any way?

[Jason White]

Don't paint your table. That's a whole maintenance nightmare in itself!

Try using "Slip-It." Get the wipe-on kind that comes in a can (not the spray). It's basically a kind of silicone-free gel that doesn't dry hard.

You just wipe it on. No need to buff afterward. Keeps the table slick and rust free. Both Rockler and Woodcraft stock it. I smear it on my tablesaw top, blade and fence every couple of weeks. No rust yet!

Jason

I give up... I have already coated my bandsaw table with 2 coats of Johnsons Paste Wax, thick coats, and I am seeing faint signs of rust already(I cannot tell if thats just some that I never got up, but if any more accumulates then this will apply.) I was wondering if it would be possible to just paint it, and be done with it!

I realize I am being a bit anal about the rust, but in the moisture of my workshop/garage, it seems to be the only solution I can see...(I really dont feel like putting another $200 on a dehumidifier.)

How much would a powder coat cost?

Would this leave a smoothe enough surface?

I havent been in my garage in the past two days(eye is still dialated, so I am sensitive to light.) But this really is no fun to be derusting every couple days..... Dang.... darned global warming causing all this moisture....

-brendan

[Jason White]

I've actually thought of doing that myself.

Hmm....

Years ago, on a whim, I applied a coat of poly to my BS table. To this day, it looks good, and doesn't seem to ever be bothered by rust. I can only assume the poly filled the pores of the cast iron, and that is keeping the rust at bay.