Results 1 to 10 of 10

Thread: Quick and easy finish for jewelry box?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Thurmont, MD
    Posts
    213

    Quick and easy finish for jewelry box?

    I am making a jewelry box from black walnut and curly maple. Initially, I was thinking of BLO to pop the grain and then wax, but was wondering if anyone else had a suggestion. I only have about 5 days for finishing, so that's the main motivator for trying something else.

    I prefer wipe on finishes.

    Thanks,

    -R

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Mt. Pleasant, MI
    Posts
    2,924
    I tend to stick to one or two things that work for finishes. There are so many options that to try everything is a life time commitment.

    I spray finish target coatings and wipe on either waterlox or behlens rockhard thined a bit.

    Pick a couple that work for you and go with it.

    Joe
    JC Custom WoodWorks

    For best results, try not to do anything stupid.

    "So this is how liberty dies...with thunderous applause." - Padmé Amidala "Star Wars III: The Revenge of the Sith"

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Thurmont, MD
    Posts
    213
    I just looked around and I am not sure I am going to be able to get Waterlox in time. What about BLO and multiple coats of shellac? It doesn't need to be glossy, but I would like a little sheen. I could do just mineral oil instead of BLO too.

    Would I be able to apply the shellac after 24 - 48 hours? I also considered 50% thinned wipe on poly on top of the oil.

    Any thoughts?

    -R

  4. #4
    Mineral oil is a bad choice. Does not dry.
    I vote for shellac. Skip the BLO. The fastest, easiest is to get a can of Zinsser Sealcoat and pad it on. You can brush on the 1st coat, since it'll drink up a decent amount. This has enough amber in it to 'pop' the grain.

    After sealed, though, you can actually wipe it on similar to wiping varnish. This is heretic to the padding culture, but I've found that on small surfaces, with thinned shellac - like Sealcoat, you can squeeze it into a clean shop towel, it wipes on easy. Don't go over it a million times, though.

    I'd do up to 3 coats in a day - with 30 mins at least between coats. The 3rd coat will be dry - even sandable within minutes - which will tempt you to put on even more coats. I wouldn't do it. I've gotten blistering days later by being over zealous with the coats. Jeff Jewitt told me it might be residual solvent that doesn't fully evaporate.

    Other options include:

    Deft Finish or aerosolized polyurethane - both avail @ BORG. They both get bad raps, but they're fine on this kind of application. These would be way easier than shellac.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Thurmont, MD
    Posts
    213
    Good points.

    Polyurethane spray is probably the easiest and quite durable. I have gotten so used to using oil finishes that I forgot that it can be pretty nice all by itself. I am just worried about the inside of the box. Spraying the inside is tough. This is where I would be more comfortable with thinned wipe on poly so I can wipe out the excess at corners.

    I am leaning toward just shellac or just multiple coats thinned wipe on poly. Mineral spirits is the correct thinner for oil based wipe on poly, right?

    -R

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Mt. Pleasant, MI
    Posts
    2,924
    Shellac is a great finish. For things that are not going to get a lot of excess wear, like desk tops it is a first rate final coat and you really don't need anything else.

    Bullseye pre-mix is the only thing I have any real experience with but it comes in three flavors at least. Sealcoat which is very clear and dewaxed, regular clear which has a very slight amber color and amber which is, well, amber.

    I wouldn't be afraid to just use any of those or a personal mix from flakes at all. Its not like you will be walking on the box.

    Joe
    JC Custom WoodWorks

    For best results, try not to do anything stupid.

    "So this is how liberty dies...with thunderous applause." - Padmé Amidala "Star Wars III: The Revenge of the Sith"

  7. #7
    Mineral spirits yes is the right thinner for most wipe on polys.
    For yr box, if that's the way you want to go, I'd just get a can of the premixed Minwax wipeon poly. It'll finish yr box, and you won't have left over product to deal with.

    Of course, beware that boxes and drawer insides tend to offgas for a long time when finished with an oilbased varnish.

    You know, you can even get Zinsser shellac aerosolized. The more I think about it, the more I'd just use one of the spray finishes. If you do multiple light coats inside, you won't get pooling in there.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Tomball, TX (30 miles NNW Houston)
    Posts
    2,747
    Shellac in a spray can is quick easy and very easy to repair.

    Shellac should NOT be built up as you would a lacquer or varnish... The perfect shallac finish is the thinnest possible coat that is flawless.
    Scott

    Finishing is an 'Art & a Science'. Actually, it is a process. You must understand the properties and tendencies of the finish you are using. You must know the proper steps and techniques, then you must execute them properly.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    22,514
    Blog Entries
    1
    I'm a BLO and shellac guy for small projects.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Thurmont, MD
    Posts
    213
    Ok, you've sold me on the shellac.

    I'll have to see what they have at my local ace hardware.

    Thanks for the advice.

    -R

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •