T&G Ceiling on Patio Questions

[Kevin Herber]

A friend and I are gettaing ready to install a 1x6 Douglas Fir T&G ceiling on his patio. We are going to put the flat side exposed, not the v groove edge exposed.

When installing, should I tap the T&G together for a very tight fit, similar to a floor, or should I just do a "hand tight" fit so there is allowance for expansion & contraction

We are gluing and nailing each board to each rafter. We are in Austin, TX, so we do get drastic humidity fluctuations.

Also, should I slightly bevel the end cuts so we are not butting flag edges together? I'm thinking this will give a closer, cleaner butt joint.

Should I put any glue (liquid nails) on the butt joing?.

Any and all answers and other suggestions appreciated.

[Phil Phelps]

I see you are overloaded with ideas, Kevin. Anyway, here is my situation and I hope this helps. I live in a home built in 1950 and have the actual blueprints. The V groove, (exposed), redwood used on all porch walls and ceilings was not glued. The den was supposed to be a large porch but was converted to a den during construction, therefore not getting the outdoor exposure. It does pop and crack like crazy, though. I think it would be best to let the wood move, naturally. For me, the V groove is the character of the application. When people first see the den, their reaction is usually "wow".

[David Helm]

I would leave the glue off and let the wood move.

[Jason Hallowell]

Glueing will most likely just cause cracks when the wood moves later on. Most of the initial movement will most likely be shrinkage, so I'd tap/clamp the pieces as tight as possible to install. One of the reasons the V is usually exposed is that it hides the gaps that will occur as it shrinks and moves later on.

[Sam Layton]

Hi Kevin, I live in So Cal so I don't have the humidity that you have. I installed T and G western red cedar on my house front porch and shop porch.

I first installed 5/8" dry wall on the ceiling for a fire barrier. Then I installed the T and G. The way my T and G was cut, the V grove shows on both side. I used PL Construction Adhesive, and glued the T and G to the dry wall, not board to board.

I recommend not to use butt joints when placing your boards end to end. use scarf joints. Cut the ends at 45 deg, apply PL adhesive and finish nail. In addition I blind nailed the entire ceiling with 2 1/2" staples, and used finish nails for the scarf joints.

My ceiling has been up for several years and looks great. I don't know what effect your humidity would have. I would at least tap your joints together, get them as tight as you can, and glue the scarf joints.

Sam