Cleaning up a steel rule?

[John McClanahan]

I picked up on a Lufkin folding steel yard stick at a flea market today. It has black etched rules and numbers on the steel slats. The steel is dark with some light rust in spots. I would like to make the steel shinny, to read easier, without removing the black from the rules and numbers. Any ideas on how to do this?

Thanks, John

[Brendan Plavis]

Angle Grinder with a wire brush....

I had a straight edge that was encrusted so much I couldnt read it at all... I zapped it with the grinder... bingo... looks like new...

It might gouge it a hair, but, it shouldnt noticeably...

But I am not sure if this will remove the black...

Maybe try Evaporust?

[Van Huskey]

I picked up on a Lufkin folding steel yard stick at a flea market today. It has black etched rules and numbers on the steel slats. The steel is dark with some light rust in spots. I would like to make the steel shinny, to read easier, without removing the black from the rules and numbers. Any ideas on how to do this?

Thanks, John

I wouldn't use a wire wheel chances are the black will disappear very quickly!

Are the markings recessed? If so scotchbrite with a sanding block backer to keep it flat and not disturb the recessed marks, if they aren't recessed then it may be more difficult.

[David Cefai]

If the markings are recessed you can apply magic marker liberally and wipe off immediately. The ink in the recesses will not wipe off.

[David Epperson]

I would think 1200 grit paper glued to a flat block should clean it up without taking out what was in the recessed graduations.

[Ross Canant]

Very fine steel wool or David's sanding block. I would go much finer however. A good fine stone should work as well.

[Myk Rian]

When I fixed tools years ago, I used black lacquer paint to redo the markings.
Wipe it on with a cloth, then remove the excess.

[John Neel]

Start with a light a touch as you can and then use stronger techniques if the lighter ones are not effective.. If you have never tried it, look as Sandflex sanding blocks. They have abrasive in a rubber like base and come coarse, medium and fine. I watched as Sandflex removed rust and corrosion from fire damaged tools. It worked so well I tried it on a few of my garage sale specials. I found it quick, easy, and very effective.

John

[John McClanahan]

The black areas are recessed. Wire brushes and steel wool are what I prefer for old tool cleanup, but I'm sure they will remove the black. Very fine sandpaper sounds like the best choice. If I can get it looking good, I will post a picture.

Thanks, John

[Dave Lehnert]

I use the Sandflex blocks on tools. They are a rubber with grit embedded in them. Works very well.

http://www.woodworkingshop.com/cgi-b...onthsBetween=0

[John McClanahan]

The Sandflex looks good, but I don't have a want list for Klingspore right now. I'm going to try some 400 grit paper with WD-40 and see how it works. I'm not trying to restore it to new, just wanting to make it more readable.

While we are on this subject, some of you mentioned adding black back to the numbers. I have other rules that sure could use this treatment. Can you elaborate on the technique you use? Do you wipe on and wipe off while wet, or let dry and wipe off with thinner? Is lacquer the best? I tried magic marker once, but seemed to wipe the black out of the numbers.

John

[Myk Rian]

As in my previous post, I fixed tools for 20 years. I used black lacquer wiped on with a rag. Let it set several minutes before wiping it off with a dry rag. Then take a rag "moistened" with thinner to gently clean off the excess. It takes a little practice to get it right, but comes out great. Works on micrometers, calipers, height gages, etc.

Wire wheels damage the surface. Use electrolysis to clean the rust off.

[Joe Chritz]

Add one elbow and one can of grease.

I used to build custom knives that started as bar stock. I often sold them with a mirror polish which consisted of sanding with progressively finer paper and then polishing on buff wheels.

Sand paper will make it as shiny as you want. Going to 600 or 1000 will leave a nice satin finish. You may need to re-darken the graduations but that a sharpie will do that OK.

Keep going to 1200 or 1500 then polish on a wheel and have the coolest looking rule around. A mirror polish would be neat.

Joe

[John McClanahan]

Well, here is what one side looks like. I started with a piece of used 230 wet/dry and some WD-40. Just light wiping against the lines. The joints got to be a bit of a problem, so I resorted to some fine steel wool soaked with WD-40. I finished with a small brass wire brush and WD-40 with the joints closed at various angles. Not perfect, but the glare in the second photo is an indicator of how much it cleaned up. Thanks, everyone!

John

[Dave Lehnert]

The Sandflex looks good, but I don't have a want list for Klingspore right now. I'm going to try some 400 grit paper with WD-40 and see how it works. I'm not trying to restore it to new, just wanting to make it more readable.

While we are on this subject, some of you mentioned adding black back to the numbers. I have other rules that sure could use this treatment. Can you elaborate on the technique you use? Do you wipe on and wipe off while wet, or let dry and wipe off with thinner? Is lacquer the best? I tried magic marker once, but seemed to wipe the black out of the numbers.

John

I was able to purchase the Klingspore blocks at a local woodworking store. May want to look at a store near you.