Member
Derek,I just finally came across an old Stanley plane body. I'm not sure what model it is. There are no numbers cast into the frame. It isn't as wide as I'd like,maybe 1 3/4". I haven't measured it.
It should be fun to re do it into an infill plane!!!!.
Contributor
Hi George
Sounds like a #3.
That's great! I am really looking forward to what you come up with.
Regards from Perth
Derek
Contributor
re: hollowing and how long do water stones last
My stones hollow every time I use them. I flatten them after every blade and they're always ready to go. Since I use a combination of diamond, Norton 8000 and a Shapton 16000 glass stone, nothing requires soaking. Just a spritz of water works on all of it.
It takes just a couple of seconds to flatten them, and so far I have not seen any appreciable wear with about a year of moderate use. I'm sure they're wearing, but I'm also sure they'll last quite a while. We're talking very little wear, but there's not reason not to have it dead flat all the time.
Keep in mind too, though, that I don't go to the stones very often. If you're going to the stone a lot, it means you're not stropping soon enough. I do a LOT of stropping. It keeps the edge honed razor sharp all the time, and I rarely need to go to the stone except to fix an edge, change an angle, or when the strop finally stops working. A power hone, like the leather wheel on a Tormek, is even better, and I use that on my carving/turning tools.
That's my opinion, which is worth precisely what you paid for it...less if you're a contributor.
Member
So,John,you say your stones last a long time,BUT you don't use them very often? I must say that that statement must be a truism!
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stropping is an excellent tool.
Jr.
Hand tools are very modern- they are all cordless
NORMAL is just a setting on the washing machine.
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Guest
dmt is not flat. I wish they are, but they just aren't. I have a solid metal one, and one that is plastic laminated with metal, and neither one is flat.
Guest
Are they outside of DMT's spec? I have only seen three duosharps, and all of them were less than 2 thousandths over their length (well, as near as I can tell - I don't get a rise out of trying to scrape feelers across diamonds under a straightedge). I've never bought a diasharp - I don't like the way the electroplate is on them, and they're too close to a duosharp in price.
A lot of people seem to have out of flat duosharps - I think they guarantee a reasonably tight tolerance, and if you can be sure they're out of flat, I'd get them to do something about it.
My biggest issue with the duosharp is that I used one of mine first to sharpen, and it didn't last very long. I used it to set up two sets of chisels and a couple of plane blades, and it's absolutely and completely beat.
Member
I used mine to flatten some ceramic stones. They were still o.k.. But,you have to have a light touch with diamonds because they are about the most brittle thing out there. Plus,they can get loose from the plated nickel matrix.
As I said earlier,I have had to hand select each diamond stone I bought. I have seen the yellow plastic ones that aren't very flat,also. The ones with a deep plastic base that I also have seem pretty flat.
Guest
George, i basically wore mine off, i'd think. With metal, not with stones.
The ones I've saved for stones only seem to do pretty well, because just the nature of lapping stones keeps the pounds of force per unit area pretty low compared to honing.
The funny thing is, I got a cheap koyama copy from a sharpening stone place, two of them, and both of them are still relatively good cutters and have done a lot more than the DMT did. I'm not sure I buy the monocrystalline argument that DMT uses - their diamonds may not fracture, but they seem to either leave the hone or become "dull" before my cheaper hones.
I have since gone to loose diamonds for initial flattening or removing pits - you can push as hard as you want, and if the kanaban gets out of flat, you can lap it and start over.
Member
I do not want loose diamond paste getting around my shop,finding its way onto my lathes or milling machines,especially my Hardinge HLVH. Once it happens,they are done.
Member
Excellent idea.
Guest
I should probably specify that I only use loose diamonds for flattening the backs of irons, and even at that, I only use them with something "wet" to keep them in place. usually wd40.Originally Posted by george wilson
I never actually use loose grit to flatten stones.
But your point is a good one, whatever goes in the shop will get everywhere sometime. I had the same experience with my table saw crosscut sled and grinder grit. I had the two pretty far apart, but somehow I still got grinder dust on the TS top and didn't know it, and it got itself embedded into the melamine on the TS sled.
It's a seldom enough activity (flattening the backs of irons where they are bad enough to need loose grit and an iron holder), though, that I could tolerate using it only outside the shop.
Member
I totally agree with checking before you buy, but i need to buy most of my stuff through the net as there are NO serious woodworker shops in my country, so no chance of checking before buying
Member
You could always ask the seller to check it for you...I totally agree with checking before you buy, but i need to buy most of my stuff through the net as there are NO serious woodworker shops in my country, so no chance of checking before buying
I know I would check if asked, but I already know where most of the glitches in the things I do sell lurk, and won't send something obviously out of kilter.
Well, normally I don't anyway. Someone around here would tell you different, but he's the only one who ends up getting dodgy stuff from me.
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