If you could have only one 10" TS blade

[Ron Taylor]

what would it be?

I'm lazy when it comes to changing blades. If I have a High DPI paneling blade on and need to do a quick rip... I use the fine-tooth blade. Ripping stuff and need to do a couple of crosscuts, I usually use the rip blade unless its for something really important.

Consequently, most of the time I buy moderately priced ($20-$40 depending on sale prices), combination carbide blades. But, I don't have a "favorite".

What about you?


Conversely, what do you consider a good selection of blades to have on hand.

[Ron Taylor]

WHY?

[Ken Salisbury]

This is a real easy one to answer !!!! Forrest WWII - regular kerf
<p align="center">
<IMG src="http://www.klsal.com/forrestblade.jpg">

"nothing runs like a Deere and nothing cuts like a Forrest"

You get what you pay for !

[Lee Schierer]

Give Freud blades a spin. You'll not regret it. The cuts are dramatically better than the other brand blades in the same price range. The Freud LU82. List price is $60, but you can usually find a sale where it is $40-45.

[Dave Arbuckle]

Takes me less than a minute to change out a sawblade. If I get out of bed in the same amount of time I get dizzy. Why compromise?

Dave

[Jim Becker]

I'm also a Forrest fan and the WW-II 40t is on my saw most of the time. Since I recently destroyed my Freud 24t ripping blade (ripping a couple of screws right down the middle...) I picked up the new Forrest 20t ripping blade. Yea...I'm hooked.

[John Longwitz]

...the Borgs sell mostly, if not all, TK (thin kerf) series Freuds. I have had decent results with them but prefer the LU's. The LU series (full kerf) are not so prevalent but rather good. I have not yet graduated to the Forrest WWII but may do so soon.

[Phil Phelps]

Originally posted by Dave Arbuckle
Takes me less than a minute to change out a sawblade. If I get out of bed in the same amount of time I get dizzy. Why compromise?

Dave

I'll bet he get's out on the left side.

[Dave Avery]

I'm with Mr. Arbuckle, separate blades. I use a 24T Leitz for ripping and Ken's beloved WWII (thin kerf version) for crosscutting. If given a choice of only 1, I'd choose the Leitz. Dave.

[Ace Karner]

I have a WWII thin kerf with stabilizers since I only have a 1 1.2 HP contractors saw. I get glue quality rips and smooth crosscuts every time.

I also have an Oldham 8 inch stacked cutter dado set which does a fairly good job.

[Kent Cori]

I use the Forrest WWII 40 tooth, regular kerf. It is one of the best investments I've ever made. I use it on almost everything except pressure treated wood. I have an OEM junk blade for that stuff.

[JayStPeter]

WWII. I only change it when I'm cutting something nasty (MDF, Plastic, Aluminum) or putting the Dado on.

[George Summers]

I have two Freud LU84, full kerf, 50 tooth combo, plain steel (no teflon, no chrome). I change them out when one goes to sharpening. I may someday, in the distant future, try a Forrest. They may, as people say, cut better than the Freud, but I cannot see how they will cut twice as good as my Freud for twice the price. These are used on a 1.5HP contractors saw and I have had no power problems. There are new Freud designs out that are said to be better than the LU84 and I may try them someday also (after Freud discontinues the LU84 maybe). If ripping thick lumber I will switch to a cheap ripping blade but that doesn't happen too often.

Yep, you get what you pay for, and if I'm going to pay twice as much, I will expect twice the cut and I don't think I will get that from Forrest.

George

[John Snyder]

Forrest 10X30 ... I also have the 10X40 & imho, you don't lose that much cross cut smoothness with the 30 & it rips practically like a rip blade. IMHO, its the best combo blade on the planet...

JS

[Jim Young]

Another WWII fan here. I only remove it when I know I'll be doing a lot of ripping.