Problem flush sanding plugs

[Carl Beckett]

I have had this problem, and found that using a hard sanding block makes a huge difference.

If you wrap your sandpaper around a block of hardwood and go easy on the pressure you use when sanding, you should get a pretty flush result.

(a sharp plane or chisel is preferred, but sounds like you may not be there and its not always the best idea to learn on an almost finished project - although I have to admit I ignore this advice often)

[Rick Prosser]

My vote is for a sharp, low angle block plane.

[Prashun Patel]

Using a belt sander on plywood is going to frustrate you. Plugs sand surprisingly quickly with a hand block if shaved close enough.

If you don't want to jump into the world of chisels/block planes/sharpening, then the easiest is a japanese flush-cut saw (BORG sells one under the Irwin/Marples brand for $20), followed by a hand sanding block.

To prevent gouging the surface when flush cutting, I use an old ROS sanding disc placed upside down over the area, with the plug projecting through one of the holes to protect the surrounding area. You can also drill a hole in a business card if yr dowels are wider than that. This gets you close enough for handsanding.

On another note, if yr going to do a lot of this, I suggest you get a good brad point or forstner bit; Spade bits are prone to tearout - especially in plywood...

[Terry Beadle]

A flush cutting saw is nice but not the only way. Take any flat bladed saw and lay it up on top of a thin card scraper by the plug. Use the saw to cut the plug while keeping the blade on the card scraper. Cut all around the plug while not letting the teeth of the saw touch the scraper. Then use the hard board block with 80 ~ 120 grit sandpaper and it will be done. Finish with 320 grit on the hard block.

I'd buy a 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch good chisel with the $20 as you will find more uses for a good sharp chisel than a zero clearance saw. IMO.

Good Luck !

[Dave Tesch]

i would like to start using a block plane, if i have to practive for a while before i get it right then thats ok too. i have plenty of spare pine plywood and plug material left over.

i used a soft pine 1/4" to make the plugs. i made 8 plugs for 8 holes and i did have one tearout ( i mananaged to glue most of it back down as it came up in big pieces). i've had my eye on a set of forstners for quite some time, maybe now is a good time to jump on that.

one of the points of this pair of boxes was focusing on the edge trimming of the doors, and trying a plug over the t-nuts. i've built these boxes many times over with different dimensions and they are all in use but these are two aspects i have been unhappy with in the past. i did pretty well on the edge trim (i had help) and witht he help i am getting herer it looks like i may do well on the plugs too.

[John Coloccia]

FWIW, Lie-Neilsen's model maker's plane is perfect for small trimming jobs like this. I use mine all the time.

[Paul Ryan]

A low angle block plane is one of those tools that every shop needs they come in so handy. I use my 60 1/2 as much as my table saw, it never gets put away. It works perfect for triming plugs that is the only way to go in my mind. A chisel you have to be too careful, a block plane they are trimmed in seconds and then just a little sanding.,

[David Cefai]

If you use a chisel don't try to chop off the end of the plug. Use a slicing motion and work around the plug. There's a better chance of not damaging it. whether youuse a plane or a chisel, wetting the plug with some alcohol will soften it drastically - as it does any end grain.

Plane or chisel, you need them *really* sharp for this.

When sanding you were sanding end grain surrounded by flat grain. The endgrain was harder.

[Dave Tesch]

i used a belt sander lightly and it flattened the area without gouging or removing too much material. being such a soft wood box i hadnt considered the belt sander at all as it can really go through the softer woods, but in this case it flatted out the plugs quickly and then once it reached a flat surface no longer removed much material. i finished up with 200 grit on a block and finally the ROS.

i still want to buy a block plane as that seems like a tool i would like to use for building boxes especially during assembly.

thanks everyone for helping me think this through and give me good ideas. i'm at this forum quite often but dont often have a lot to contribute except for questions. i appreciate the help.

[Steve Mellott]

An inexpensive flush cutting saw (about $15) and then clean up with a hard sanding block. Works great every time!

[mreza Salav]

I always use a flush cutting saw (which is around $10-15) and cut it flush. It works so well I can hand sand it a few times or use the ROS for a few seconds and be done with it.

No tear out on the edges, no problem.