That's a looker. Very well done.
That's a looker. Very well done.
"A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".
– Samuel Butler
Hey Dan -- looks great!
I have a few questions, since I am considering replacing my (left-wing-mounted) router table.
If you have used it enough to know......... do locking casters lock tight enough that the whole table stays in place while you are routing something big? I sometimes do some really wide profiles, requiring double-fingerboards in two directions. That holds the stock tight to the table and fence, but takes a lot of 'push' to get it through.
And -- is there any way that you have integrated the dust collection below the plate, with the collection at the fence? In my experience, dust and chips fly in almost every direction from a router bit.
What kind of finish did you use on the wood?
It looks great but I hope you finish the wood so it'll be protected after all that work.
Now I can't sleep, every time I closing my eyes - I see your table
Very nice , thank you for showing.
ed.
WOW!
That table wouldn'tr work for me, though. Because if I were to build something that nice, my wife would want it in her dining room.
Thanks to all for the comments. Some answers to your questions:
Q: That's a sweet router table. I'm about to build a similar table and may borrow several parts of your design. How did you decide on that design for the dust collection? I was thinking it might be better to have the dust port just under the table so the shavings don't get sucked into the air intake on the router motor.
A: Dust collection was inspired by Norm; I simply modified several of the dimensions and increased port size to 4". You have point there - I'm sure I will have some bits sucked into the motor. No matter what, I expect that chips will settle to the bottom, and my thoughts were to extract from that level to prevent all "build up". Not being 100% sure myself which strategy was best, I went with a tested design - I think thousands of Norm RT's have been made, and most people say they are happy with it.
Q: What kind of finish did you use on the wood?
It looks great but I hope you finish the wood so it'll be protected after all that work.
A: I used General Finishes "Arm-R-Seal" which is an oil/urethane blend. 2 coats on inner surfaces; 4 coats on outer surfaces with 0000 steel wool in between.
Q: If you have used it enough to know......... do locking casters lock tight enough that the whole table stays in place while you are routing something big? I sometimes do some really wide profiles, requiring double-fingerboards in two directions. That holds the stock tight to the table and fence, but takes a lot of 'push' to get it through.
A: I was concerned about this as well. I used the same casters (great quality; Woodcraft) on a different project (roll around tool cart) a few years ago. I tested the rigidity on this cart before starting my RT. It helped to put non-swivel casters on rear (rolls front to back), with swivel on front. When I push sideways on the table, the first thing to "give" is the slippage of the casters along the concrete floor. This takes a "lot" of force - more than I think I will EVER need. The CI top and hefty cabinet adds a LOT of weight, and this helps of course.
Q: And -- is there any way that you have integrated the dust collection below the plate, with the collection at the fence? In my experience, dust and chips fly in almost every direction from a router bit.
A: I haven't connected yet, but my intent is to connect the 4" bottom duct to my DC system, and "y" the 2" fence duct into this. I'm hoping this will be robust, but I'll let you know how this works....
Last edited by Dan Schmidt; 06-15-2010 at 9:08 PM.
Your router table is beauty!! What is the gadget on the upper right front of the cabinet??
Comment on the dust collection. I put standard shop vac hose fitting behind the fence at the bit opening and ran hose to hole in the area next to the 4 inch hole below the table top and the space has enough negative pull to capture the chips coming off of the bit at the top, do you have make up air holes in the router door, if not you need around (5) 1 inch holes to ensure air will flow through the router area.
With this set up I capture 95% of the router chips when I am using the fence, when free handing curved shapes I loose some.
Dan
I built the Norm version a few years back. Yours appears similar, but with some well thought out improvements. Most notably the table top.
This should be in the living room... Well done.
Fred
"Precision woodscraps"
Thanks. The gadget to the upper right is a remote digital readout which allows very precise and easy indication of the height of the bit. This one is the Wixey model mounted to a block of oak which is secured to the cabinet with rare earth magnets. Let me know if you are interested in additional pictures of this.
http://www.wixey.com/remote/index.html