moving with SYP

[Andrew Sincock]

**This is my first post, so please forgive any obvious ignorance

I am just getting into woodworking and am about ready to build a workbench (mostly based on the Schwarz Roubo design in the book). Currently, I am in Dayton, OH where SYP is plentiful, but I will be moving to Lancaster, CA (in the desert) before I can build the bench.

My question is should I buy the SYP now, despite the huge change in humidity from OH to CA, or should I wait until I reach CA to buy the wood? From what I understand, SYP is tough to find in CA, so I would need to go with another wood if I decide to wait. The moving effort is a wash thanks to the military.

What is the risk of the SYP being destroyed by the change in humidity?
Are there decent SYP alternatives in SoCal? I was looking at SYP for ~$10 for a 2X10X12 (BORG).

Thanks!

[Dave Matson]

I'm no expert but the main type of construction lumber you can get out here in California is douglas fir or western hemlock. The merits of DF vs YP is discussed in this thread:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=20843

Some claim DF too soft for a bench top. I built one for my highschool woodworking class using a 4x12 cut in half and bolted together and it works fine (didn't have much choice as the wood was donated).

It would probably be faster and cheaper just to buy the workbench wood locally in Lancaster, as you could get to work far sooner than having to let midwestern wood accumulate to such low humidity.

[Randy Klein]

If you can get the air force to move it for you, I would. You'd be hard pressed to find it out there. You'll have to let it acclimate no matter where you are.

As a point of reference, I built my SYP roubo while in Dayton and have moved it to Denver, probably as dry as Edwards and have seen no problems so far.

Also, check out my thread on roubo tips. I recommend buying from Carter lumber vs HD or Lowes.

[Rick Rutten]

You may Google SYP to find their association. There is a list of dealers for each state that carries the product. That may be helpful in locating a supplier in Lancaster or over the hill in LA. There is just one supplier out here in CO.

In one of our military moves I had a pile of lumber in the garage. When I told them to load it up they said, "Are you kidding? You want us to load up this wood?" I just laughed and told them it goes. If you can get it, they will move it, and you are under your weight limit, you might as well buy it in OH. It can acclimatize while you are unpacking.

Happy PCS!
Rick

[Chuck Nickerson]

The one supplier I've found in the SoCal area for SYP will sell in 1000bf lots. So buy it before the move, or use the DF once you get here.

[Jim Koepke]

Andrew,

Welcome to the Creek and thank you for your service to our country.

At the price you quoted, you could make a profit in So Cal with anything extra you can bring.

If you can get boards with the growth rings aligned with the width of the boards, you will be way ahead of what you will find in the Golden State.

I moved up north from California. There is a lot more wood up here for a lower cost, but still not the good harder woods available back east.

Keep us up to date on your bench build.

jim

[lowell holmes]

I've worked on houses that were framed with SYP studs. After 20 to 30 years, the studs were very dry and very hard. They were difficult to nail into and hard to cut. I suppose they could slpit from drying, but I never saw it happen. My inclination is that it would be a good choice.

[John Maus]

Andrew,

I would buy the SYP and bring it along. I moved from Fayetteville, NC to Denver, CO with my SYP bench three years ago. I have not had a single problem with the bench as it acclimated to the dryer clime. The SYP is nice and hard and if you choose you boards carefully it makes a great looking, nearly knot free, bench.

[Andrew Sincock]

Here are the highlights of my wood purchase today.

--I picked up (20) 2 X 10 X 10' today for my 7' bench (SYP). Cost: ~$140

--I should have about 50% extra wood for my 30'' bench

--The grain is fairly straight, with very little warping, twisting, or cupping

--I picked through probably 100 boards. Only a few are knot-free, but the knots in the boards I grabbed were tight

--I should have enough clear boards to keep the knots all on inside of the glue-ups, or on the bottom of the bench-top

--I had the workers break open a new pallett of lumber, some boards weighed twice what others did. I am guessing they were out in the rain.

--The CA desert should dry out the lumber pretty well, though I am considering buying a moisture meter to make sure the boards even out before I start cutting.

--I have a bunch of leave I need to take this fiscal year, so hopefully I will get the bench done in late July.

Cheers, thanks for the advice, and I will keep you updated

[Bob Easton]

Good! You've got lumber. Before you do anything else, sticker that stack to help it dry evenly. You said some of the boards were heavier than others. They're wetter and don't need to be affecting the others.

If you haven't stickered before, find enough thin strips of lumber and use them to separate your layers from each other. Put a row of "stickers" on the floor, then the first layer of lumber, another row of stickers, etc...