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Thread: Timbers for workbench

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
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    Rochester, NY
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    681
    Quote Originally Posted by Matt Radtke View Post
    He doesn't. The recommendation is to use the driest wood for the top, limiting the potential for warping. Any warping will be dealt with regular flattening of the top, which is required anway.
    He actually does. From from the Workbenches book:

    "Choose the wettest boards for the top and legs, those parts will shrink on the stretchers of the bench, which should have a lower moisture content than the other parts. This approach will keep the joints tight and will slightly distort the base's shape, which is going to happen anyway."


    I only happened to have the book right next to me, as I have been constantly referring to it as I make my own feeble attempt at a Roubo . I am pretty sure he elaborates on this further elsewhere in the book, but I can't find it right now.

    Cheers,

    Mike

  2. #17
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    Apr 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael Peet View Post
    "Choose the wettest boards for the top and legs...This approach will keep the joints tight and will slightly distort the base's shape, which is going to happen anyway."

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Madison, WI
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    345
    I stand corrected. Though it's not terribly surprising. The true, 14+' original french benches were 4-6" thick slabs. And often green. The Roubo from Landis' book mentions something to that effect.

    Frank, I think you're getting hung up on the wet wood. I believe from Landis and Schwarz both mention a slight bit a-framing happening. Just about enough to make the dovetail M&T tight. To me that says over the length of the legs, ~34", they are getting pulled in about a 1/16th or so. Not enough to drastically alter the feet.

  4. #19
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    Apr 2008
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    Matt,

    When you say I'm getting "hung up" on the wet wood, that makes it sound like I'm the one with the problem, a proposition I, not surprisingly, reject. I understand the idea of using a combination of green and dry wood in some structures -- Shaker chairs, for example -- but work benches aren't chairs, in use they need to be straight and flat and stable, so the idea of making one out of unseasoned wood strikes me as odd (not to say wrongheaded.)

    What does Mr. Schwarz mean by saying that the base's shape is going to get distorted anyway? Anyway what? Using seasoned material, and cutting your joints accurately, the base, and top, should stay pretty much as made, at least in my experience.

    Are people romanticizing the act of making a Roubo bench, and in the process perhaps forgetting what a woodworking bench is to be used for?

    Just asking...

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Virginia
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    3,178
    Matt,

    I didn't know what you meant by dovetail mortise and tenon, but I just watched the video and see exactly what you mean; it's like a bridle joint with the outer tenon dovetailed.

    His bench looks a bit short for his height, although I know that everyone has his or her particular method of working (it would kill me to have to stoop over like that to work.)

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